Router bit for miter slot

[Aaron Liebling]

Now that my folding outfeed table for my sawstop is done, it needs the miter slots extended. I already cut the main slots with a 3/4" bit. Does anyone know the bit to use for the "T" at the bottom. Alternately, what metal aftermarket miter slot matches the sawstop and I could just do that instead.

[Bruce Page]

A close fitting miter slot on your extension table does not serve any purpose. You want some clearance to prevent any possible binding due to wood moisture movement. I made my slots 1” wide x 7/16” deep.

[Aaron Liebling]

Makes sense!

[Rich Engelhardt]

Woodcraft has t-slot router bits that do this very well.

https://www.woodcraft.com/search?q=t...&button=search

As Bruce mentioned, you don't want them too tight in the outfeed table.

Since you already routed the channel & just need the slot, I guess either the 1/2" or 1/4" shaft would work.

I just bought both so I can make my own t-track - rather than try to buy the aluminum stuff that nobody has right now.

[Lee Schierer]

My indeed and out feed extension tables have miter slots cut into the plywood. they are a snug fit to the miter gauge bar. I've used the out feed table for more than 10 years and the in feed table for several months since I completed it with no binding problems. My miter bar doe not have the t-slot feature.

[ChrisA Edwards]

As others have said, just make it wide enough. By the time the tabs, from the front of your miter gauge, get to your outfeed table, you are most likely past the cut area on the workpiece.

Also, when putting my miter gauge in the slot on my table or band saw, I usually drop it into the slot with the tab at the end of the slot (outfeed end) and then slide it backwards. Less fiddle'y that putting it in from the front.

[glenn bradley]

I'm with others in that my miter slots in my outfeed are generally around 1" wide to assure smooth movement regardless of spoil or minor differences in "T" styles and alignments. FWW had an article on a very simple method.

[Jim Becker]

I'm with others in that my miter slots in my outfeed are generally around 1" wide to assure smooth movement regardless of spoil or minor differences in "T" styles and alignments. FWW had an article on a very simple method.

This. ^^ Wood movement, even with manufactured panels, can make for "not fun" if the miter slot in the extension table is made to match the saw top's slot width and tee feature.

[Aaron Liebling]

I just widened them to a bit more than an inch and it works perfectly. Sometimes the simple solution is the best!

[Charles Lent]

One thing to add is to bore a large hole at the trailing end of miter gauge extension slots in your out feed table, so saw dust falls through instead of preventing your miter gauge from moving the full distance. Only do this if you haven't built a cabinet under your out feed table. If you did, frequent use of a vacuum or air gun is my best suggestion for this problem DAMHIKT.

Charley

[Aaron Liebling]

Love that idea, Charles!

Mind you, I'm trying to stop sawdust build up at the source rather than letting it pile up enough to jam the miter slot up.

[Charles Lent]

I agree, but it happens. Especially when sizing rough sawn wood.

Charley

[Thomas Canfield]

The bit you can use with a 3/4" slot to form the under lip is the keyhole bit. It normally cuts a slot with undercut grove each side. You will need a fence to guide the router since no bearing on the cutter.

[Brett Luna]

After cutting the miter slot extension, I took a Whiteside 3094B slot & undercut bit to it. It worked quite well. My folding outfeed table has an MDF core, so I wasn't worried about movement. Still, if I had it to do over again, I'd likely just make a plain, wide slot as others recommended. Heck, I may even go back to widen my slots...or I may just make a through-hole at the end. I really like that idea.

[Charles Lent]

You don't need or want a precise fit of this outfeed table slot for your miter gauge to fit into. Over size, like about 1" wide is better. Your miter gauge is held accurately with the slots in your saw table. This slot in your outfeed table just lets you get the head of the miter gage past the saw blade to complete the cut, but to do this, the guide rod of the miter gauge needs to extend past the back end of the saw table. Make this extension slot large to allow for this, plus room to keep sawdust build-up from affecting the ease of sliding the miter gauge it's full distance. If you make it tight and with T slot guides, the next rainy day you are going to be wishing that you made these outfeed table slots considerably over size. I also drilled a large hole through my extension table at the far end of this slot. The hole is to let any built-up saw dust fall through the table, so it doesn't get in the way of the miter gauge bar.

Charley