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Thread: Leveling Hammer A3 & K3

  1. #1
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    Leveling Hammer A3 & K3

    Hammer A3 (and K3) owners, how are you leveling your machines in your shop? I just set up my A3 this weekend and where it is going to sit in the garage is pretty sloped and out of whack. I was thinking about putting leveling feet on all 4 corners but it looks like only two of the corners on the A3 have holes for feet. Where the wheels for the mobility kit go through seem to block the ideal spot for feet.

    On my K3 I'm using a combo of shims and the factory leveling feet but I'm really not a fan of that setup. Curious to hear how others have it done and what recommendations you have.

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by Gabriel Marusic View Post
    Hammer A3 (and K3) owners, how are you leveling your machines in your shop? I just set up my A3 this weekend and where it is going to sit in the garage is pretty sloped and out of whack. I was thinking about putting leveling feet on all 4 corners but it looks like only two of the corners on the A3 have holes for feet. Where the wheels for the mobility kit go through seem to block the ideal spot for feet.

    On my K3 I'm using a combo of shims and the factory leveling feet but I'm really not a fan of that setup. Curious to hear how others have it done and what recommendations you have.
    If it is in a stationary location and you don’t need to move it periodically that I would go with shims. Not much that you can do if only two of the four corners have a threaded hole for leveling feet. I suppose that you could drill and tap the other two corners but it would be a big pain in the but to get access to the bottom of the saw. Mobile bases on machines weighing several thousands pounds are tricky but if the manufacturer makes one for this machine I would get it as it would make leveling the unit much easier. I have never seen a mobile base available for a 2,000lb saw though. I made my own for my old wide belt sander using 3/4” plate steel, 2x3 box tubing and very heavy duty steel casters. Welded it all together and it works perfectly. Only issue you might have is that any casters rated for that much weight are going to raise the saw up potentially too much to be comfortable.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gabriel Marusic View Post
    Hammer A3 (and K3) owners, how are you leveling your machines in your shop? I just set up my A3 this weekend and where it is going to sit in the garage is pretty sloped and out of whack. I was thinking about putting leveling feet on all 4 corners but it looks like only two of the corners on the A3 have holes for feet. Where the wheels for the mobility kit go through seem to block the ideal spot for feet.

    On my K3 I'm using a combo of shims and the factory leveling feet but I'm really not a fan of that setup. Curious to hear how others have it done and what recommendations you have.
    Neither of those machines need to be "level", as much as they need to be stable and flat (i.e. not twisted). If you don't need to move either machine then it should just be a matter of adjusting the 2 front leveling feet on each machine so that the machine is stable and flat. At the same time you can try to make them as level as possible.

    If you need to move a machine regularly then it is harder, as you want to find locations that don't require you to adjust the feet each time. I have that problem with my A3, as I store it up against a wall but have to move it out to use it. I have the feet adjusted so that it's stable in the in-use position. But every time I roll it back to store it I have to angle it slightly because the floor in that spot is "bumpy" (basement shop) and it won't be stable otherwise.
    And there was trouble, taking place...

  4. #4
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    Non-brand specific, of course...'cause I'm in a different colored camp...but for a machine with a sliding saw wagon, I use solid shims. Keep in mind that for a slider, it's best to have the wagon either parallel or perpendicular to the slope. Angling it makes for an even greater leveling challenge. I had my slider perpendicular to the slop at my previous shop and that require an approximate 3/4" rise to the two front feet of my saw to get it level. While going with the slope wasn't even possible in that space due to a stairway, I don't think I would have wanted it that way as it would have been "more fun" to shim because of the offset of the feet at the wagon vs the saw cabinet.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #5
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    If stationary use shims, if like mine, they get moved with a mobility kit, then don't worry about it unless they're really wonky.........Regards, Rod

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bobby Robbinett View Post
    If it is in a stationary location and you don’t need to move it periodically that I would go with shims. Not much that you can do if only two of the four corners have a threaded hole for leveling feet. I suppose that you could drill and tap the other two corners but it would be a big pain in the but to get access to the bottom of the saw. Mobile bases on machines weighing several thousands pounds are tricky but if the manufacturer makes one for this machine I would get it as it would make leveling the unit much easier. I have never seen a mobile base available for a 2,000lb saw though. I made my own for my old wide belt sander using 3/4” plate steel, 2x3 box tubing and very heavy duty steel casters. Welded it all together and it works perfectly. Only issue you might have is that any casters rated for that much weight are going to raise the saw up potentially too much to be comfortable.
    It will be semi permanent at its location in the garage and I've ordered the mobility kit for it as well. My hammer K3 is surprisingly easy to move with the mobility kit though a tad cumbersome in the confines of my garage.

    I'll likely stick with using the shims as that seems to be the consensus.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Non-brand specific, of course...'cause I'm in a different colored camp...but for a machine with a sliding saw wagon, I use solid shims. Keep in mind that for a slider, it's best to have the wagon either parallel or perpendicular to the slope. Angling it makes for an even greater leveling challenge. I had my slider perpendicular to the slop at my previous shop and that require an approximate 3/4" rise to the two front feet of my saw to get it level. While going with the slope wasn't even possible in that space due to a stairway, I don't think I would have wanted it that way as it would have been "more fun" to shim because of the offset of the feet at the wagon vs the saw cabinet.
    For the solid shims is there a standard that people use? When I think of a shim I think of one of the wedge ones in wood or plastic.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gabriel Marusic View Post
    For the solid shims is there a standard that people use? When I think of a shim I think of one of the wedge ones in wood or plastic.
    I use metal shims, I carry a pack or 2” squares ranging from 32 to 10 gauge

    If I need more than that I use flat bar...Regards, Rod

  9. #9
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    Honestly, I just used plywood and MDF... Held up that 1500 lb machine just fine.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Honestly, I just used plywood and MDF... Held up that 1500 lb machine just fine.
    Works just fine until the inspector shows up :-)

    For temporary use that's what I would use as well Jim..............Regards, Rod.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rod Sheridan View Post
    Works just fine until the inspector shows up :-)

    For temporary use that's what I would use as well Jim..............Regards, Rod.
    There certainly is differentiation when it's a commercial shop in that respect...but that's not a factor for most of us.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    There certainly is differentiation when it's a commercial shop in that respect...but that's not a factor for most of us.
    Fortunately not a factor for me! I'm going with wood shims, I took a look at the metal ones and they are not cheap at all.

  13. #13
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    My A3-41 is on the heaviest duty Bora mobile base and you'd be able to level it with those, although garage slope could be too much.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Crawford View Post
    My A3-41 is on the heaviest duty Bora mobile base and you'd be able to level it with those, although garage slope could be too much.
    I was just looking at that, seems to be pretty popular and way more convenient than the mobile base that Hammer uses. Can you level across all 4 feet or is it just two?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gabriel Marusic View Post
    I was just looking at that, seems to be pretty popular and way more convenient than the mobile base that Hammer uses. Can you level across all 4 feet or is it just two?
    Interesting, I much prefer the semi-live skid design for shop equipment.....Regards, Rod.

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