For years I had a one car shop with a table saw, bandsaw, jointer, planer, router table and dust collector. Was able to do that once I realized that cars were built to sit outside, table saws weren't.
Cliff
Contributor
For years I had a one car shop with a table saw, bandsaw, jointer, planer, router table and dust collector. Was able to do that once I realized that cars were built to sit outside, table saws weren't.
Cliff
The problem with the world is that intelligent people are full of doubts, while the stupid ones are full of confidence.
Charles Bukowski
Contributor
No matter what one can "get by with" you will want a real table saw, at least a full-size (10") contractors saw with a quality fence. This can be mounted on a mobile base so it can be stored out of the way, yet deployed wherever there is appropriate space for the job at hand. Don't try to cheap out on this item--get a quality used one, if necessary. You will likely find it useful for virtually every woodworking project you undertake.
"Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."
Member
Shocked and horrified! Many years ago I used to do woodworking in an apartment. It can be done. 8^)Originally Posted by John Serna
Contributor
I one knew a guy who turned out some nice furniture in a 10x10. He had a contractors saw and a Shopsmith. They had a full-size basement but his wife kept him in that tiny space..Makes me grateful for my 435 sq feet.
Charlie Jones
Member
My shop is 14 X 26', so about the size of a 1 car garage, but I have a Delta Unisaw with 52" fence and a 3 1/2' square outfeed table on it, plus 3 drill presses, plus a belt and a spindle sander, router table, When I found the Unisaw and 52" Unifence, I couldn't bear think about cutting the fence rail down, so the end of the fence rail and side table of the saw is against, roughly the center of the 26' front wall. All foot traffic goes around the other end of the saw in a U fashion. My 6" Jointer is close to the left end of the saw table and I have a 24" deep bench for my chop saw to walk between with about a 20" wide walking space, but it works for me. I rarely, if ever, have anyone else in my shop with me, so narrow aisles are not a problem. My assembly workbench is behind me when I'm using the Unisaw, so it can function as an infeed table too. I have never broken down full sheets on any table saw that I've owned, since I never felt that doing it was safe. All of my sheet stock is done outside in the diveway, using a circular saw with a DIY zero clearance base and straight edge on a cutting table. The cutting table that I built is just a 1 X 4" frame about 36 X 70" with 2 X 4" cross pieces laid flat and flush with the top edge of the 1 X 4" frame, spaced where necessary to allow attaching a set of banquet table legs, plus a fifth one across the table center. (see pictures) That's not the road in the photo. It's my driveway.
The legs of the table fold into the lower side of the frame, so the folded table is only 3 1/2" thick. I store it on edge leaning against my sheet stock in my shop. I position the cut line of each sheet roughly centered on the table and adjust the saw cutting depth to cut about 1/4" below the sheet. The kerfs left in the table do it no structural harm. As each cut is made, nothing falls to the ground, so no cracked or broken last inch or so, ever. Both the good and the off cut remain on the table at the end of the cut. I remove the desired piece and then re-position the remainder for the next cut. This works far better for me than trying to juggle a full sheet of material and try to keep it against the table saw fence. I always cut 1/8 - 1/4" oversize and then do the final trimming to size with my Unisaw.
There are two small pieces of plywood attached off center to one edge of the table with one screw through each, so they can be rotated to be above the table or rotated to be below the top of the table. When loading a full sheet, I rotate these to be above the table and then tip the table on it's side so these are down against the driveway. I then place the sheet against the table with it's edge sitting on these pieces. I then reach down and pick up both the table and the sheet lifting them until the table is upright with the sheet laying on it. Then I rotate the small pieces of plywood so they are below the table surface and then move the sheet on the table to prepare it for the first cut.
The wheeled dolly was built with a 1" gap in the center to allow any thickness of sheet material to be moved on it. The re-purposed large diameter wheels and axle stubs were removed from a defunct high wheel lawnmower. Larger wheels are better for rough terrain than smaller. Other than this, I made it tall with handle holes to make it easier to pick up and carry, but no other dimension other than the center space is critical.
I have been using this cutting table with a scrap of plywood attached large enough for my miter saw, roughly positioned over the center 2 X 4 and against the front edge of the table to use when cutting trim and molding. The long pieces can be stored behind the saw on the table, and the table is long enough to keep most cuts from falling to the floor.
Another use for this table -
This cutting table, with a full sheet of 3/4 cabinet ply thrown on top, makes a great picnic expansion area when more picnic guests show up than planned for. Mine has been used several times for this.
Member
When I was working in a garage space, I grabbed a small DeWalt off CL and bought a Rousseau Stand for it . Not cheap, but the Stand is very heavy duty, made in USA, and has an excellent fence. Extremely portable.
Contributor
I’ll suggest a bandsaw, especially since you sound comfortable with hand tools.
"You can observe a lot just by watching."
--Yogi Berra
Friend of the Creek
John, if you decide to go with hand sawing for now, do yourself a favor and connect with someone like Pete Taran (vintagesaws dot com) who sells vintage hand saws. Get one that he’s set up ready to saw...you’ll be glad you did.
Member
If it’s just plywood and pocket screws a track saw would be fine. I would prefer a table saw for skinnier rips, dados, and cross cutting. I have both and feel like I can get the table saw set up quicker to do more things. The track saw shines more for straight lining boards and breaking down full sheets. That’s just me and I’m no pro so YMMV
Last edited by Steve Fish; 06-01-2021 at 8:12 AM. Reason: I can’t type lol
Second the suggestion for a bandsaw.
Member
I had a very similar situation to you (1 car garage where a car would be parked). I had a very small amount of space to the side of the garage where I stored all my tools, and rolled them out as needed. I had a sawstop jobsite saw, which was quite compact when stowed away, and most of the other tools were on mobile, roll-away cabinets like the ones in the image below. Whenever I was working on a project I would have to park the car on the street, or clean up at the end of each day, but it was worth it!
mobile shop.jpg
Member
I've worked out of a garage I also parked cars in before but I find a dedicated shop garage to be far preferable. My current shop is 14x24. I once pushed all the tools back into the end opposite the garage door and pulled my Suzuki Grand Vitara (small SUV) into it to prove I could. But it is a hassle to move everything. I've added tools and I couldn't do it now.
I have a 36 inch SawStop PCS and a track saw (DeWalt). I also have what I think is a nice steel frame Jet bandsaw I will probably use to resaw some cherry and poplar tomorrow. If I had to start over, it would definitely not start with a bandsaw. Their cut is not clean, it needs planned before use. It is difficult to cut a straight line with it. It works only if you mainly want to use hand tools. I want to mainly use power tools (I am not very patient).
Table saw or track saw first is a function of what you want to make. For cutting big pieces sheet goods or solid wood, the track saw is most useful. For cutting little pieces, the table saw is much easier to use. A big advantage of the track saw is you do not need a large table saw. I like my PCS but could make the things I make with a smaller cheaper portable saw (I used to). I'm finishing up a set of 10 dining room chairs currently. I made a large dresser and a 10 foot long dining table earlier this year. I've been mainly using cherry (the poplar I mentioned is for black stained slats in the dining room chairs, I couldn't stain cherry that way).
Getting a bandsaw to cut in a straight line is a matter of setting it up properly. With the proper blade and tension, virtually all band saws can cut pretty cleanly.
There are very few table saws that will yield rip cuts that can be glued together to form a panel -- generally, saws that are capable of this are Euro sliders that cost in used market near 10k and up. Otherwise, you need to square, flatten, and smooth the cut. One way is with more power tools, (a jointer and likely a planer as well) or by using plane.
What the band saw gives you is a bit more versatility and safety. Ripping on the band saw is much safer than on a cabinet or contractor table saw -- there's no chance of kickback. In addition, it gives you something you can't do on the table saw -- cut curves. Furniture and projects are so much more interesting if they are not limited to straight lines.
What you can't do with a band saw is cross cut longer pieces of lumber. There's a variety of solutions for that. Miter saw, circular saw, hand saw...
A table saw takes up a lot of space. Consider whether it really is the place to start. No doubt table saws have their place, but be careful about adopting the common reaction that it is the first tool to buy. Especially with limited space.
Mike
Contributor
Consider a saber saw. It's faster than a hand saw and stores easily. And definitely consider contacting Pete.
When car shopping consider something small.
Contributor
I’m going to go against the grain and got for a ‘poor man’s track saw’. It would be fairly straightforward to build an add on to rip lumber.
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