Re glueing belt sander belts

[Jay Buckler]

I have some new (2018) sanding belts I never used. Just went thru 3 of them after about 2' runtime because belt came unglued. Like I said a few years old but never used. So question is is there a way or product to buy that can re glue these belts? real frustrating to buy stuff to have onhand and then when you need it they come apart on you.

thanks

Jay

[Dave Zellers]

This has been my experience as well. Stock up on some belts and a few years go by, and when you use them, they break at the seam. Very frustrating. It seems to happen when they heat up. I've got a box of broken belts waiting to be repurposed. Sorry I don't have an answer but would love to see one. Not holding my breath.

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I have never seen anyone post here and say "this works great and it lasts".

I believe that you will never get a great fix, but, there are some suggestions here:

https://bestofmachinery.com/how-to-r...t-sander-belt/
https://www.woodmagazine.com/sanding...-sanding-belts
https://www.rockler.com/learn/how-to...r-sanding-belt

Most solutions read something like this:

1. Use Reinforced Strapping Tape on the inside (or sewing fabric bias tape). Reinforced Strapping Tape is similar to clear shipping tape, but heavier and contains nylon or fiber-glass threads running through it.
2. Remove the old tape residue from the belt using Mineral Spirits, Acetone, Lacquer Thinner, or 90% Rubbing Alcohol
3. Align the ends by butting the seams together; be sure the belt does not overlap unless the belt was made with overlapping seams.
4. Use spray type or contact cement (cyanoacrylate) from a tube on the back side of the belt at the seam ends equal to the tape width. Allow a few minutes to tack up;
5. Apply tape across the seam being sure no air bubbles are trapped in the tape; go back over the taped seam with a dowel or small block of wood with rounded corner to firmly seat the tape. This part is a bit different when using the bias tape and putting wax paper down will keep glue from getting where you do not want it.
6. Use pieces of scrap wood on each side, clamp at the seam. Allow 12-24 hours for the glue to cure.

[Frank Pratt]

I've never had a belt fail at the seam. My current supply of Klinspor belts range from about 8 - 14 years old. They are stored in a drawer under the OSS, so in the cool & dark.

[Ryan Yeaglin]

depending on the vendor you bought them through, they might exchange them. Same thing happens to us at work (metal fab shop) and if there are a rash of belts that break the vendor will exchange them for new. It's worth a shot..

[Jaromir Svoboda]

I bough stroke sander 2 years ago with sanding belts about 10 years old. First belt last just few minutes. I used Tyvek house wrap tape to tape seams before I use rest f them. It works for me.

[Tom Bender]

Just a detail to add, to align the seam apply blue tape to the grit side temporarily.

[Alan Lightstone]

As per I post I made earlier this year, I had a box of them I hadn't used in about 10 years. They all came loose at the seam in about 30 seconds. So storing these seems to be a big no-no. Have to buy fresh.

[Brice Rogers]

I have never seen anyone post here and say "this works great and it lasts".

I believe that you will never get a great fix, but, there are some suggestions here:

https://bestofmachinery.com/how-to-r...t-sander-belt/
https://www.woodmagazine.com/sanding...-sanding-belts
https://www.rockler.com/learn/how-to...r-sanding-belt

Most solutions read something like this:

1. Use Reinforced Strapping Tape on the inside (or sewing fabric bias tape). Reinforced Strapping Tape is similar to clear shipping tape, but heavier and contains nylon or fiber-glass threads running through it.
2. Remove the old tape residue from the belt using Mineral Spirits, Acetone, Lacquer Thinner, or 90% Rubbing Alcohol
3. Align the ends by butting the seams together; be sure the belt does not overlap unless the belt was made with overlapping seams.
4. Use spray type or contact cement (cyanoacrylate) from a tube on the back side of the belt at the seam ends equal to the tape width. Allow a few minutes to tack up;
5. Apply tape across the seam being sure no air bubbles are trapped in the tape; go back over the taped seam with a dowel or small block of wood with rounded corner to firmly seat the tape. This part is a bit different when using the bias tape and putting wax paper down will keep glue from getting where you do not want it.
6. Use pieces of scrap wood on each side, clamp at the seam. Allow 12-24 hours for the glue to cure.

Isn't contact cement completely different than cyanoacrylate. Cyanoacrylate, CA, is a super glue and most types are brittle. Did you mean 3M type 77 adhesive?

[Andrew DiLorenzo]

I saw a You tube video of a guy who made a disc sander that he mounted on his lathe. For the sandpaper, he used sanding belts that had split apart from age. If I remember correctly, he just glued them down with spray adhesive and trimmed them flush at the edge.