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Thread: Console Table Design Ideas

  1. #1

    Console Table Design Ideas

    Given the knowledge and ideas that I've received here before, I figured I would ask a couple questions *before* cutting wood this time. I've ran through several ways to approach this, and I'm in paralysis by analysis. I apologize if this is a bit "stream of consciousness". Opinions welcomed.

    I'm designing a console table for my open living room. There's an eave that juts out 15 1/2" from the rest of the wall. Since it's right behind my couch, it seems like a great place for a console table. The end of the couch to where a 28" high console table would hit the eave is around 7 1/2', but I plan to leave about a foot gap there anyways for some outlet/phone charging stuff we plan to kind of tuck back there. Bottom line is that the current plan is the table to be about 6' to 6'4" long, 15" wide and about 28" tall. The end that is exposed I was planning on doing around a 12" waterfall drop. I like the look, but in combination with the A Frame legs I intend to use, it would also prevent my 2yo from crawling back there (maybe ).

    The issue I'm running into is for the top. Being new to the craft, I was blown away the first time I saw QS Walnut. I bought this pretty cool 9" wide board that I want to highlight. I realized it wouldn't be wide enough for what I wanted to do, so I found another piece of QS that's maybe not quite as impressive but I had planned to cut a couple of 3" strips off it and bookmatch the outsides of the main board. It's a little questionable as the one end of the smaller board are bowed by 3/8", and I'm unfortunately needing to use almost the whole length (my original plans were shorter without the waterfall, so I figured the bow wouldn't be a problem). Both boards are a real 1 1/8" right now.

    Since all of the edges won't be visible (against the wall, couch, and the waterfall should be pretty much in line with the couch end), I was pondering having the main 9" board resawn and laminating it onto my other walnut pieces. I guess I could use about any substrate with some edge banding or something. I've never done a veneer like this before and just am not sure about what a good way to go about this (or not!) is.

    Also, since the span between legs (attached a picture of the ones I plan to use) will be about 6' or so, I believe that's a bit too far of a span for the boards I have. I was planning to just do a simple M&T rectangular leg in the middle to provide additional support, attached with figure 8s. Any other opinions welcome.

    Sorry for the mess - wife just snapped a quick pic for context and we just had another baby so there's a bit of a mess!
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Micah Puscheck; 05-12-2021 at 4:59 PM.

  2. #2
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    A top which is 1 1/8" thick hardwood and 15" wide will be fine with a span of 6'. Look up "sagulator" to run your own calculations for sag.

    Yes, you can resaw the best walnut plank, and glue the resulting veneer on to something convenient like poplar. You just want to ensure that the edges and ends of the laminated plank are not seen.

    Usually folks building steel bases like that have been told that wood moves, so they make the mounting holes oval. You fasten the base to the top with a screws through the oval holes, and back off the outer ones a bit so they form sliding connections from the steel to the wood. No figure-8 clips required. I can't tell from your photo if your base is built this way.

  3. #3
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    Above I said that you certainly can resaw and veneer. That is true if you have a vacuum press to glue the veneer to the substrate. If you don’t have a press, that route is quite challenging.

  4. #4
    Thanks for your input Jamie.

    I did use Sagulator (love that thing), but I'm always over the top with my weight calculations. Kiddos crawl and jump on everything, so I assumed 100lbs in the middle of it. Guess I could always just use the metal legs and add the middle support later if I wanted to. I did just mean the figure 8s on the wooden middle leg, I'll make sure the holes in the legs are ovaled out.

    I do not currently have a vacuum press. Is it stupid to just cut it in half (about 1/2") and laminate that on other stock?

  5. #5
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    If you laminate without a vacuum press, how are you going to squeeze the pieces together while the glue dries? You could try it with wood clamps, but you’d need a whole bunch. Or you could use screws. That’s more affordable. Put enough screws in so that the gaps between the screws are no larger than six inches. Do use glue even though you have lots of screws.

    When you crosscut for the waterfall, maybe remove the screws in that area.

  6. #6
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    Assuming that the table will be below the window trim

    Walnut will fade in the light so I always stain it

    You may need to pull the table out occasionally to get to wires, stray pets, spills, lost remotes and pens etc so making it 14" wide might be better

    The legs will be at least a few inches from each end (say 8") so the span will be more like 60". This will be plenty stiff if you have a 1" thick top.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by Jamie Buxton View Post
    If you laminate without a vacuum press, how are you going to squeeze the pieces together while the glue dries? You could try it with wood clamps, but you’d need a whole bunch. Or you could use screws. That’s more affordable. Put enough screws in so that the gaps between the screws are no larger than six inches. Do use glue even though you have lots of screws.

    When you crosscut for the waterfall, maybe remove the screws in that area.
    Good point. I had laminated some 4/4 stock for legs on another proejct, but those are way smaller than full boards. Wasn't thinking of clamping practicality. Thank you.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Bender View Post
    Assuming that the table will be below the window trim

    Walnut will fade in the light so I always stain it

    You may need to pull the table out occasionally to get to wires, stray pets, spills, lost remotes and pens etc so making it 14" wide might be better

    The legs will be at least a few inches from each end (say 8") so the span will be more like 60". This will be plenty stiff if you have a 1" thick top.
    Good point. It's a North facing window and I'm in the North, but it still gets plenty of indirect light. I had planned to use Arm R Seal, but I guess that doesn't do great with UV.

    Yes, the height I have planned should be about 1/2" below the trim line.

    I was hoping to put the visible leg right up against the waterfall as a feature, but the other leg could definitely be off the far end like you are saying. I'll skip the middle support as you have both mentioned. I've had a habit of some overbuilding on projects so far...I'm sure that's good sometimes, but unnecessary as well.

  8. #8
    Thanks again to all those with input. Ended up skipping the veneer concept and make a panel instead, which I think was the right call. First time running a project through the new planer too, which was very satisfying.

    As was suggested, no problems at all with the span, which was about 64" or so. It does rack a fair bit, but that's acceptable for this application.

    I also included a pic of my ridiculous cross cut sled I built for this project. Didn't even need the rollers! Figuring that cut out took way too much time, but I really wanted to make the cut on the table saw so it was glue ready, and it worked out perfectly.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #9
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    Nice! Nice waterfall, and nice unusual overall design.

  10. #10
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    That came out awesome! Nice going.

  11. #11
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    I like the table a lot. Great concept and materials. Seems a bit of a shame to hide it behind the couch.
    Rustic? Well, no. That was not my intention!

  12. #12
    Thank you.

    It's even more hidden with the diaper changing supplies that went on it right away what can you do.

  13. #13
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    Yeah, a dining table with a tablecloth always on it might as well be plywood.

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