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Thread: Fret saw blade kerf issue cutting dovetails

  1. #1

    Fret saw blade kerf issue cutting dovetails

    I cut dovetails using a Japanese saw (.012 blade) and a coping saw to clear waste. I upgraded a fret saw, but find the blade kerf to wide to fit in the cut w/o damaging the dovetails. Do I need to buy an new dovetail saw now?
    Thanks,
    Fred

    Seasoned professional possessing unremarkable proficiency at innumerable skills.

  2. Is the kerf of your saw 0.012 or is that the thickness of the plate not accounting for tooth set? What blades are you using in your fret saw? I have the knew concepts and have used scroll saw blades with very thin kerfs while cutting dovetails with my western style saws and Japanese Dozuki. The blades are super cheap, so it might be worth trying a few before going to a new dovetail saw. I have used Pegasus and Olson blades and found both to be adequate. Also need to consider that a fret saw keeps the blade under tension, so you can only go so thin.

  3. #3
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    I have a fret saw that works with my saw but have started to just use the chisel to clear the waste. It doesn't seem to be any slower and even after sawing the waste out I still need to pare back to the line anyway. I started doing this after watching some old masters, they seem to do it like this.

  4. #4
    You can look for thinner kerf blades, or you can start your cut inside the kerf on the meat of the waste. No need to start IN the kerf.
    Last edited by Prashun Patel; 05-12-2021 at 3:20 PM.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris Jarl Hanson View Post
    Is the kerf of your saw 0.012 or is that the thickness of the plate not accounting for tooth set? What blades are you using in your fret saw? I have the knew concepts and have used scroll saw blades with very thin kerfs while cutting dovetails with my western style saws and Japanese Dozuki. The blades are super cheap, so it might be worth trying a few before going to a new dovetail saw. I have used Pegasus and Olson blades and found both to be adequate. Also need to consider that a fret saw keeps the blade under tension, so you can only go so thin.
    Yes .012 it is the plate not accounting for the teeth of the saw. The fret saw is Knew Concepts MK IV. I tried the blade that came with the saw and Olson blades and neither fit in the kerf.

    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Clausen View Post
    I have a fret saw that works with my saw but have started to just use the chisel to clear the waste. It doesn't seem to be any slower and even after sawing the waste out I still need to pare back to the line anyway. I started doing this after watching some old masters, they seem to do it like this.
    It does make sense doing it that way. As far as chisels, mine are laughable and my stones are even worse. I probably should have spent the $ in that area instead of the fretsaw.

    Quote Originally Posted by Prashun Patel View Post
    You can look for thinner kerf blades, or you can start your cut inside the kerf on the meat of the waste. No need to start IN the kerf.
    This is what I'm doing.....straight down the ctr of the waste and then to each side. The annoying part is I could have continued using the old coping saw. I though the fret saw would make for quicker cuts closer to my lines. Quicker prob not unless I buy a new DT saw. I haven't used the fret saw enough to get accustomed to it so closer cuts may be possible.
    Thanks,
    Fred

    Seasoned professional possessing unremarkable proficiency at innumerable skills.

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