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Thread: Shooting plane user question

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Vancouver Canada
    Posts
    464

    Shooting plane user question

    I was able to grab a Veritas Shooting plane (R-H) at the last "seconds" tool extravaganza. Built a ramped shooting board and I am using the Veritas 16" aluminum shooting board track.
    So: the board to track is dead-on perpendicular; The track adjuster is snugged to the body of the plane; The plane body rubbing against the board, and the intersection is waxed even though the aluminum has the slippery tape.
    I have used it for months and gotten stunning results. Tonight, I came up with a problem.
    I did a quick and nasty jig to do some 45 degree chamfers for a project the wife has "requested".
    In using the plane, I noticed that as I was running the piece, the plane's top was angling to the right. I adjusted the track, but no matter I set the track, it angled to the right.
    I measured the board, track etc. for square and perpendicular. Perfect within tolerance.
    When I measured the plane however, there is a marked bevel (out of square) aspect to the plane bottom and cutting surface which seems to account for the deficiency.
    I know many of you own a Veritas Shooting plane; could you please measure yours with a trusted/accurate square and tell me if it's my plane, or I need to shim the track.
    Young enough to remember doing it;
    Old enough to wish I could do it again.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Northern California
    Posts
    373
    My dear fellow (but already established not related) Rosenthal,

    I’ve had the Veritas RH Shooting Plane for many years, but never bothered to check it. So I checked it for square with a Starrett 4” Double Square and Incra 7” “Guaranteed” Square as you suggested. While not absolutely dead on, I found it to be what I assume is within tolerance range for woodworking, whatever that is. However, I decided to run the same check on my LN Low Angle Jack Plane and recently acquired (thanks, Wes) LN-9, both of which can be used for shooting. Both are precisely square, which now makes me question the exact accuracy of the Veritas. I’ve never used either of the LNs for shooting, but will try to compare them and report back. The issue is the shooting boards I built are set up to fit the Veritas but I’ll see what I can do. Maybe Rob Lee can weigh in as to the measurable tolerance range.

    Btw, the LN-9 is an incredible tool and is quickly becoming my favorite plane. It’s a block Plane on steroids and excels as a smoother.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Longview WA
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    23,416
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    In using the plane, I noticed that as I was running the piece, the plane's top was angling to the right. I adjusted the track, but no matter I set the track, it angled to the right.
    I measured the board, track etc. for square and perpendicular. Perfect within tolerance.
    A similar problem occurred with my shooting board, though mine is set up for a left handed shooting plane.

    All the wood on the set up seems to be reacting to the humidity. Part of how a shooting board works is the lower part on the side of the table where the plane's sole rides below where the blade cuts.

    When setting my plane in the track the plane was resting on this instead of being fully on the ramp.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Freiburg, Germany
    Posts
    219
    shaving and dust build-up in the corner of the track?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Baton Rouge, LA
    Posts
    88
    I’ve not done any miter shooting, but have shot square ends a good bit with mine. So far, I love it. Mine is a seconds sale purchase also.

    Mine does measure square - at least as square as my squares I tested it with.

    The plane does not need to be perfectly square as you can adjust the plane iron to make a square cut.

    I do find sometimes I tend to tip the plane a bit when I push. This is something I need to be conscious of to avoid.

    Lastly, why a ramped board? The plane iron is angled already and a ramped board should not be necessary, but perhaps this makes it doubly good??

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Vancouver Canada
    Posts
    464
    Quote Originally Posted by Gary Focht View Post
    I’ve not done any miter shooting, but have shot square ends a good bit with mine. So far, I love it. Mine is a seconds sale purchase also.

    Mine does measure square - at least as square as my squares I tested it with.

    The plane does not need to be perfectly square as you can adjust the plane iron to make a square cut.

    I do find sometimes I tend to tip the plane a bit when I push. This is something I need to be conscious of to avoid.

    Lastly, why a ramped board? The plane iron is angled already and a ramped board should not be necessary, but perhaps this makes it doubly good??
    Gary I built the board (against even Derek's advice), because I'm lazy and and don't like taking the blade out to sharpen and hone it when only one area of the blade is worn.
    Young enough to remember doing it;
    Old enough to wish I could do it again.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Nova Scotia
    Posts
    4
    Not sure I 100% understand the issue, but it sounds like you are using a ramped board with an angled attachment for the chamfers. I tried this out on my own board to understand it better. So here's what I found out. An angled board on a flat (not ramped) board to set the chamfers will work fine - perfect in fact. So then I lifted the angled fence at the back end to simulate a ramped board and immediately the chamfer became tapered, the higher the ramp, the greater the taper on the chamfer -every time. So I am thinking you may be introducing the angle with the ramped board, the quick test here is to try your guide/support on a quick and dirty flat board. This would confirm what i am saying or if you have a problem with the plane, which is highly unlikely as even "Seconds" are subject to the same tolerances and standards as the regular product.

    Let me know what you find.

    Richard

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Vancouver Canada
    Posts
    464
    I DID discover my issue.
    Veritas Customer Service and I confirmed that my plane was within tolerances, so I did a little more experimentation and like Gary postulated, as I was pushing the plane, it would naturally tilt. So now I just pay more attention to the attitude of the plane as I'm cutting.
    Young enough to remember doing it;
    Old enough to wish I could do it again.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Baton Rouge, LA
    Posts
    88
    Aaron,

    Glad you got that worked out. It is a great plane and will serve you well.

    There is one thing I have learned so far - no tool is immune to user error.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    5,697
    Here is a picture of mine. Notice the finger smudge on the side, right in front of the hump. After working hundreds of inlay pieces fixing a fancy floor, I naturally migrated against using the tote, and place my hand on the body of the plane. It seems a lot more natural, and better balanced to me than using the tote.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Nova Scotia
    Posts
    4
    Good that you figured it out. There is a little play in the angle of the handle you can change as well and I have mine set as flat as it will go which forces my hand a little more toward the fence. I found if I was not religious on my technique it would waver a bit. I also re-handled mine with a tote that fits my hand better.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Houston TX
    Posts
    537
    Tom, I use a similar grip on my Bedrock 607 shooting plane.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    5,697
    I didn't really figure it out. In fact, I'm sure I didn't even think about it. Just feels right, and I've never even thought about it being uncomfortable, so it must not be.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    N. Idaho
    Posts
    1,147
    I'll second Tom's observation/method. I could remove the handle on my LV shooter without consequence. Glad you have it sorted!

    Best,
    Chris
    "You can observe a lot just by watching."
    --Yogi Berra

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    SE KY
    Posts
    420
    Quote Originally Posted by Christopher Charles View Post
    I'll second Tom's observation/method. I could remove the handle on my LV shooter without consequence. Glad you have it sorted!

    Best,
    Chris
    Same here, works much better for me. I would remove the handle but for the fact that I use the handle when storing the -lane.

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