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Thread: Questions: Laguna LT18 from 1999

  1. #1

    Questions: Laguna LT18 from 1999

    Hello All,

    I have a line on a ACM made Laguna LT18 for $800. Before everyone yells at me for not running over to pick it up with cash in hand....please hear me out.

    I called Laguna and asked if they can still source parts for a 1999 vintage LT18, the answer was a disappointing NO. The saw also has a 3 phase motor, which I would have to switch out. I forgot to ask Laguna if this is available and how much, I called and left a message and sent an email.

    My question is, taking into account the challenges above, would you still buy this saw?
    Bandsaws are pretty simple machines, is the lack of spare parts something that will really affect me?
    Are there any other parts sources for the older ACM made LT18?
    I know these were being retrofitted with 4.5 hp Baldor motors, any idea what model?

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    I don’t know the other answers to your questions, but I would buy a VFD for phase conversion for $300 or less before trying to swap to a single phase motor.

    What condition is the saw in? Are there any broken or missing parts that you know of?
    Last edited by Phillip Mitchell; 05-10-2021 at 11:43 AM.
    Still waters run deep.

  3. #3
    Unless there is already something broken, I wouldn't worry at all about parts.

    3-phase however, I personally would skip. I don't have it in my shop. You can often find 3-phase machines a lot cheaper than single because not everybody has access to it.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    6,528
    A 3hp VFD from a reputable company like factorymation costs $200. Just need 220v single phase, which I’m guessing you do if you’re looking at saws like this.

    Get it. Just because the manufacture doesn’t sell parts doesn’t mean you can’t find them online at eBay or some thing. I don’t think any of my vintage machinery still has parts available (okay, Northfield does).

  5. #5
    About the only thing that might be specific to the machine might be the tires, which isn't much of an issue.
    Guides are interchangeable, look at Scott&Sargeant for parts,which are quite pricey, you might be able to source a USA distributor of some other brands which are Italian saws.
    Belts and bearings will be standard from bearing shop say 30 quid for both wheels, and a fiver for a belt in an agricultural spares place.
    I run my 24" machine off the household plug, with a VFD/inverter which would cost a bit over a hundred quid "all in"

    Make sure you see that it is a 'dual voltage' 3 phase motor that will run on 220volts, otherwise you need quite an expensive VFD,
    Not sure if the cheapies can step up the voltage to 380v or thereabouts.
    Have a look at the nameplate of the motor underneath, the D represents 'delta' low voltage configuration, you might see a triangle symbol either.

    You will need to make or buy a box for it, it isn't difficult to knock up one with some sheet metal.

    Two things to be aware of..
    No going the terminals after being unplugged, as these hold a charge for some time after.

    Make sure that you enter the motor commands correctly!, (parameters) as these relate to speed.
    If you buy an unknown brand cheap VFD/inverter, then that might take a bit of deciphering if no one else has documented it.
    Some have a fan that runs all the time, my Isacon drive which looks like the Huanyang is quiet.
    Make sure you know which one to get, or what you're actually getting! (get dimensions)

    Also some are for 380v IN, and not the 220 IN household voltage you need.


    See 220/240, and grab yourself a bargain
    BANDSAW MOTOR.jpgSAM_0939.jpgSAM_1705.jpg

    All the best
    Tom

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Madison, Wisconsin
    Posts
    489
    I have this saw....or at least an Italian made LT18 from the same era. Great saw....I was resawing 4/4 cherry last week (4" thick) into 1/4" pieces and the 1-1/2" resaw blade I have cut it quickly and like butter. The dust collection on these saws is not 100%, but works. I seem to recall I paid $1500-$2000 for this saw when new in the 90's. $800 seems like a pretty good deal to me, though you have to consider the added cost of a VFD

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Alberta
    Posts
    2,162
    I would buy it and then figure out how to make it work. (electrical). VFD's are one way, I have no experience with them. When I started to buy 3 phase stuff I set up a rotary phase converter and now have five machines running off of that. I have bought and sold so many stationary power tools that I no longer worry about "Parts availability".My experience has been most machines just need a good cleaning/adjustment. Beyond that problems are mostly bearings or electrical which can be sourced all over the place besides the specific manufacturer. That is a good solid Italian bandsaw don't think about it for long or someone else will own that thing. Good luck.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Location
    Western PA
    Posts
    1,236
    Maybe the obvious suggestion, but why not reach out to ACM? They made the saw to begin with. I would be very surprised if you cant source parts for a 21 year old italian bandsaw via some warehouse. Its like everyone on this forum moans and groans about delta and parts availability. Correct, you cannot call Delta's main number and have some kind soul walk you through the parts diagram and send you what you need. However, you can still get any part you need for a 1952 unisaw--its just not through delta. It is likely the same situation here. Laguna wont/cant help you, but you can help yourself.

    I second the VFD, and if nothing is currently broken, then you should be fine for life. bearings for the wheels and rubber tires are mostly off the shelf stuff. I have a laguna LT20 from 2004, and the rubber tires seem to be in great condition still. Im guessing your tires will be fine.

  9. #9
    Thank you for all the replies and information. I found another lt18 locally that is single phase that I will probably pick up.

    Can anyone with an italian lt18 and a mobile base let me know what the total height is?

    Will I be able to lean an lt18 over and put it in a full size van with myself and the seller?

  10. #10
    Blade off, raise the guard to take the table off first and it'll be easy, if it's a single bolt holding on the table get your mate to hold it.
    Had an exciting experience like that before with my 24"
    It will be easily tilted over onto its column, when at 45" is balancing on its own, and only notice weight at the very start and the very end.
    A compete saw weighs about 200kg , so table off is no bother to do.
    You might need to take off a switch or have some thick like 3 or 4" posts to not foul against the floor of the vehicle.
    The posts make for a lot less stooping and chance of finger trapping.
    A wee dolley might be handy for moving it horizontally if need be.

    For the really picky, some consideration may be had for the paintwork of the column,
    I suppose some carpet or what have you, might not be a bad idea.

    Ill do ya a silly video in an hour or two since I am messing about my saw at the moment.
    This is the link, still loading slow internet, so might be loaded by the time you see.
    https://youtu.be/TqvksdzJ6ls
    I wrote this below in the description.

    I wouldn't do this on any bandsaw with the table on, but that's about all I'd remove, unless things were really complicated or if it were a heavier machine. Cut to 4 mins for tilting, or have fun watching me squirm. Fair enough, the wheels are removed, as are the guides, solid guidepost, cover for the guide post, both cabinet doors, and the box metal section in between them... Not sure it would have been as light when near horizontal with those bits, nor would standing the machine back upright be as easy. DO THAT ON A FLAT FLOOR, or against a wall !, as it stands up with quite a thud and can wobble quite a bit if its going on a base, That saw is 280kg assembled, so this video might compare more so, to lifting a 20" 200kg machine, BTDT. I hear folks all the time mention that a 20" machine is too heavy, so this is an attempt to demonstrate that I'm not exactly lifting it, just pivoting it as the height of the machine gives great leverage. Hopefully this might persuade some to seek out a better machine for themselves. Also it may demonstrate that these things are quite tippy in the other orientation, that's something to be aware of, especially if you have a bad floor! I wouldn't make a mobile base a tight fit widthwise, there's no space to be saved especially at the back. Heard some folk say their saws don't tip about, sounds like witchcraft. I decided to swap the base around to see if it were easier to level, hopefully so probably not. Would love to have a flat floor to see what's going on. Mobile bases and uneven floors can make for some head scratching.


    Good luck
    Tom
    Last edited by Tom Trees; 06-23-2021 at 2:13 AM.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Atlanta
    Posts
    1,592
    Can anyone with an italian lt18 and a mobile base let me know what the total height is?

    72-5/8” or pretty darn close.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Cambridge Vermont
    Posts
    2,271
    If it was me I would remove the table before even trying to move it when picking it up. The trunnions are what will most likely break if it falls over on you. It'll also make it easier to move and put on a mobile base.

  13. #13
    I've loaded up MANY Italian bandsaws. My method:

    -You need two people. Too risky for one person to wrangle.
    -I prefer pickup trucks with no camper shell. Lay some carpet or cardboard in the bed. Place a cut length of 4X4 lumber in the bed, up against the back of the cab. Could use 2X4 or possibly plywood if the guidepost does not protrude out the top of the upper cabinet, as in the late generation Centauros.
    -Drop the tailgate.
    -You and your helper walk the bandsaw, backside first, to the tailgate. Squat and tip it head-first, into the bed. The edge of the tailgate is your fulcrum. Slide forward until solid contact with the lumber at the cab.
    -Throw a nylon ratcheting strap (I prefer the fat yellow ones, not the thin ones) around the base and hook to either bed hooks or cutouts in the bed rails. Snug up, sucking the machine towards the cab.

    This way, when you arrive, bandsaw can just slide right out. Hope this helps,

    Erik
    Ex-SCM and Felder rep

  14. #14
    Saw is home safe and sound.

    I took yhe seats out of my chevy exptpress passenger van to transport the saw.

    We moved the saw between seller and myself with a dolly, put a piece of plywood down right where the saw spine would hit the door ooenening of the van as we tilted it down to get it in the van. Tilted the saw down slowly and slid it into the van.

    The I used the rear seat attachment points on the floor to hook straps and strapped it down. I didnt remove anything on the saw to do this. At home I had a helper and reversed the whole operation.

    Thank you all for the advice and comments.

    Now I need to make the saw mobile in the shop. Can I just put a regular old mobile base on this thing or is there any advantage to using the mobility kit from laguna for it?

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Julio Vargas View Post
    Now I need to make the saw mobile in the shop. Can I just put a regular old mobile base on this thing or is there any advantage to using the mobility kit from laguna for it?
    That might be dependent on how flat your floor is, and how well your saw sits, my saw rocks about a bit.
    I made these four magnetic blocks this morning, a much welcome addition should you have trouble with levelling yours.
    Should have made these ages ago, would have saved me hours of frustration.
    With machine out from the wall for access, a bit of an auld stick, some rubber bands and a weak torch make this soo much easier.

    SAM_4729.jpgSAM_4730.jpg

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