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Thread: metal files for hand plane restoration

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2021
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    Israel
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    317

    metal files for hand plane restoration

    Hi all, I have an old-ish (from the 80's) British Stanley Bailey 4-1/2 (people who remember the 70's please don't get mad!) that needs some mild restoration. I need to get some metal files for working on it. but I'm not sure what to look for. the two major issues is that I need to flatten the frogs face, and I need to get into the area where the frog sits.

    Id be happy for some pointers.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    One of the first files a woodworker should get is a single cut 'farmers own' file, a smooth cutting wide one, the wider the easier for sharpening scrapers.
    Used for sharpening lawnmower blades and whatnot, should find one local for less than a tenner.

    I done all that jazz before I learned how to use the cap iron.
    A lap will be sufficient if there was a burr needing knocking off.
    There is little surface area on those planes, so a bit overboard needing a file.
    Likewise with the mating surfaces of the frog, some self adhesive abrasive or regular stuff and spray glue can be used on the underside
    after it is lapped at 45 beforehand.
    Go too far and you will not end up with a flat surface, as abrasion always favours the edges leading to a convex rocking profile.
    Might need to pick up a pack of small files so you can hollow out the surface if that happens, using the end of the wee flat file as a scraper.

    If you are planning on moving the frog forward on that plane, then it is a great learning experience
    because there is little registration of the bed for it to work.

    A lovely big mouth on that plane will help you understand how to use the cap iron, as a tight mouth will stop it working.
    You then can realise how much better it works for tearout, compared to having a tight mouth.

    It'll make you understand that a precision lapped bed makes no difference, as is evident if you shine a light between the surfaces.
    I done that, and removed the lateral adjuster while I was at it.
    Seen some folk since lap with the lever still attached instead, which would make more sense.
    Just about peened the thing back together, a dodgy thing to be at with a no.8 plane, and a waste of time.

    I suggest you watch some of David Weaver's videos
    This plane will have a big mouth like yours,
    I challenge you to see anyone match the performance of this particular plane.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7605b3W6Sxg


    All the best
    Tom

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    Longview WA
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    Assaf, My only use of files on a bench plane have been to open the mouth. This requires a thin file preferably with smooth sides or safety edges.

    Some of my planes have been dropped by previous owners. This might leave a rough, uncomfortable edge. These can be filed with a rattail or half round file.

    For the face and/or the frog mounting abrasive paper attached to a stiff surface may be better. Check often as cast iron disappears quickly.

    Lapping the sole or the face of the frog is usually not needed. Make sure there is a problem before trying to fix it.

    Planes have come through my shop with convex and concave soles. It takes careful work and constant checking to make sure you are not making the plane better and not worse.

    An old post of mine might be helpful > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?114373

    Since posting that a dozen years ago more understanding has come my way. The important part of lapping, filing or sanding on a plane is knowing what is to be achieved.

    An important part of lapping on abrasive sheets is to clean the metal swarf off the sheets every few strokes.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2020
    Location
    Lombard, IL
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    174
    I've restored several Bailey planes of various vintages and all of them had frogs that seemed relatively flat. I will lap them on a flat surface to remove corrosion and other blemishes if it seems called for. I always remove the cast iron yoke first so it's little tab doesn't get damaged, but don't bother removing the lateral adjustment lever - too much trouble for me removing it and getting it back on. You just need to be careful to work around the little wheel (on the Stanley's) at the bottom end of the lever to not damage it while lapping.

    I recently restored a Millers Falls #5 (vintage 50's or 60's) that I discovered had a frog that was significantly dished in the middle. I spent a lot of time flattening the surface of that frog. Also on that plane, the seat that the frog sits on was not ground flat properly - an obvious production flaw - causing the frog to be slightly tilted when screwed down. That's when I used my files to flatten down the little chunk of cast iron that was protruding. That experience caused me to question the quality control of the later Millers Falls products.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    That experience caused me to question the quality control of the later Millers Falls products.
    Many products and much of manufacturing in general took a drop in quality during this time. There was less of a demand for woodworking tools while at the same time large companies were looking for ways to cut costs.

    One of the big mistakes made by management is described at the end of this page > https://oldtoolheaven.com/history/history10.htm

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

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