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Thread: Short Stroke Sliding Table Saw or ?

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    57,349
    For the SCM/Minimax machines, if you order the "more readily available bundles" that tend to be stocked from the factory here in the US, the SC-3C is the "better buy" once you consider accessories...like the short miter fence which I would not be without. The SC-2C doesn't come with many accessories in the "stocked" configuration while the SC-3C comes "loaded. Sam Blasco tipped me off on this a couple of months ago. I'll be ordering an SC-3C to replace the larger slider I have now once my new shop is built. (sold the larger S315WS so I didn't have to pay to store it for as much as a year...)

    BTW, you can use your existing 5/8" arbor blades on the SC-2C and SC-3C machines, although upgrading to 12" blades when you wear the 10" blades out is a good move.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Waterford, PA
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    Thank you Jim! I'm planning on going to see a SC-3C in person next week. Assuming I see what I'm expecting, I'll probably purchase either a SC-2C or SC-3C. The foot print will likely be the deciding factor. I'm also looking at the Hammer K3 Winner, but am awaiting info from my representative. The ability to use my existing saw blades is a huge plus for SCM. Do you have trouble finding 12" Table saw blades with the 5/8" dia hole?

  3. #33
    Jim, why are you downsizing your saw? Space constraints?

  4. #34
    Join Date
    May 2014
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    Santa Fe, NM
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    208
    Quote Originally Posted by Lisa Starr View Post
    Do you have trouble finding 12" Table saw blades with the 5/8" dia hole?
    Most are bored to 1". You can get reducers to ⅝" for $6 or so. https://www.amazon.com/Timberline-Sa...s%2C221&sr=8-4

    Added plus is that your dado set will work on the saw.

  5. #35
    Lisa, your choice on which way to go but if space really is the dealbreaker, your Felder rep can build a K3 with a narrow (31”) rip capcity to the right of the blade. Or no scoring, for that matter. I don’t believe anyone else can offer configurations like this.

    Erik
    Felder USA Territory Representative: Central & South Texas

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Waterford, PA
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    Thanks Eric. I'm waiting for my rep to get back to me with info/pricing. I'm leaning toward the Minimax right now, but love my A3-31, so will definitely take a hard look at the Hammer.

  7. #37
    this is what I meant by combining machines so one becomes the outfeed and support for another. Rail on the SCM saw likely 54 inch or so rip capacity. Ive built tops over 50" before so not sure i wanted to cut it down. Outside room dimensions here are wrong, smaller than ive shown the 22 I think is 19 feet just memory hasnt had coffee yet. I dont believe sliders take less room than cabinet saws they dont.

    The thing to note here is P, its a removable panel. I can lift that off to stand and use the radial arm saw. Put it back its support for the slider material and faence. If I get towards the 40"- 50" range then the radial arm table is support for the fence. X are cut outs so if I need to work with up to 16 foot solid I can, Ive made facias for homes a few times and material was all 14 to 16 feet long. This is a third machine room im setting up, temp for now.

    This is what I meant by one machine supporting another. Jointer and workbench are support for the radial arm. Takes a bit more care and thought. My first how was a postage stamp with 10 or 11 machines. I had to be set up to build anything doing custom work and that means any saw has to have an outfeed table. I saw an April Wilkerson you tube more near the beginning, no outfeed table, no splitter or riving whtatever. Unsafe stuff from someone who didnt know they didnt know.



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  8. #38
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    57,349
    Quote Originally Posted by Lisa Starr View Post
    Do you have trouble finding 12" Table saw blades with the 5/8" dia hole?
    Nope. 12" Forrest WW=II 48 T from Silvers Mill. But any 12" blade with a typical 1" bore can use a precision bushing for a 5/8" arbor.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #39
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    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Jenness View Post
    Jim, why are you downsizing your saw? Space constraints?
    Space and the fact that I don't cut sheet goods on the saw very much. Most cutting is with solid stock. So when I rebuy after having the new shop up, I'm going to the more compact machine based on how I actually use it.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lisa Starr View Post
    Thank you Jim! I'm planning on going to see a SC-3C in person next week. Assuming I see what I'm expecting, I'll probably purchase either a SC-2C or SC-3C. The foot print will likely be the deciding factor. I'm also looking at the Hammer K3 Winner, but am awaiting info from my representative. The ability to use my existing saw blades is a huge plus for SCM. Do you have trouble finding 12" Table saw blades with the 5/8" dia hole?
    Lisa, regardless of which saw you buy you'll still be able to use your old blades.

    I had all my blades bored out for the 30mm bore and two pins for the Hammer saw, it was under $20 per blade.......Remember that 12' blades with a 5/8" bore aren't a standard item with a few exceptions........Rod.

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Winterville, NC (eastern NC)
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    2,198
    I have owned a Laguna short stroke slider for over 8 years; replaced an older Delta Unisaw (1965 vintage). No problem cross-cutting a 4 X 8 sheet of ply. The cross cutting jig and outrigger jig hangs on the wall 90% of the time and re-installs in less than 2 minutes and I have no regrets getting a short-stroke machine. It also has a 5/8" arbor so blades are easily sourced. I mostly use 12" blades with a 1" arbor hole, but with a spacer to adapt.

  12. #42
    My opinion on going with one brand of machine over another just for usability of blades: That's like saying you're going to go Ford over Chevy (or whatever) because the first one will use the rims you already own. You buying rims or you buying a truck? Not to sound cute but that's not a real reason. We use an electric blade brake on all our saws, which is actually a pretty nice safety feature that you can't get on any other machine at this level, so it's not a case of Felder using a different arbor just to be special. Sorry that you have $500 or $1K invested in existing blades. They're just blades, not pets or kids. Like Rod said, get them re-bored or just buy a few new ones. 30mm blades are not more expensive than regular ones and Amazon has plenty if folks don't want to buy from us. In fact, with the market being the way it is right now, if I had a bunch of high-quality 5/8" or 1" blades, I could probably re-sell them for practically what I paid, so what am I actually losing?

    Go with whatever brand you like best but if someone makes their final decision based on wanting to use a handful of 12" blades they own, that seems somewhat short-sighted to me. Pretty much every Felder customer I've delivered a saw to has had to spring for a new blade or two. Guess how many complained about that after using their machine? Zero. In fact, they usually say, "This think kicks a***!". Whichever brand, buy the MACHINE, not the tooling. Just my 2-cents.

    Erik
    Felder USA Territory Representative: Central & South Texas

  13. #43
    never had a need for a brake on a saw or any other machine for that matter, when I shut off a jointer or whatever it winds down and stops.

    On my older machines different than this electronic brakes wear capacitors in the roto phase. Used radial came with a short stop, it will be taken off. If you have to wait a couple of seconds for wind down to change blades so what.

    The last second or two any machine spinning down lets you hear the bearings. 1" bore on my saw, like all the blades ive bought from auctions.

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Waterford, PA
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    852
    Thank you everyone for your help. I sold my current table saw setup this morning and pulled the trigger on the slider. Both machines seem to be quite nice, but after weighing the different variables, chose a SCM/Minimax. I really appreciate all the input you offered. I owe an extra thank you to Mike for suggesting sketching my shop in CAD. It made it obvious that some re-arranging was in order and that I could fit a slider in my shop.

  15. #45
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
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    10,485
    Lisa, once you learn how to use it you will love having one....Rod

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