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Thread: HELP-Cant set Jointer Outfeed/Infeed Table Heights w/ Tersa Knives

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Edmonton, Canada
    Posts
    2,359
    I have a FS350 and have removed the tables (disassembled the machine entirely) twice and had to put things back together and adjust things. Setting the tables right takes time (usually I spend 1 hour or more) and several tries and measurements but it's doable and I can get it within 0.001-0.002" off.

  2. #17
    I ended up needing to shim the infeed table on both sides. Just held the shims on with tape. I also was able to rotate the infeed a bit forward on the operator side. I didnt understand worm screws that are there where that attaches but using a dial and see how much I pulled the table forward helped me get to .0005 the same in all measure points. I wrote the shim measures down in four places and as I changed them could clearly see what changes they made to the other measures.

    bit hard to see and have better photos but not filed to the machine folder. You can see the shim right and left side

    6 P2140777A.jpg


    here is rotating the table forward using the dial to see what change ive made

    4 P1310166A.jpg
    Last edited by Warren Lake; 05-05-2021 at 11:15 AM.

  3. #18
    I ordered some brass shim stock on Amazon, it should be here by tomorrow so I will attempt to shim the infeed table hinge side and report back.

    It seems that the hinge is a round bar that sits in a mating piece of metal that has a curve milled into it. Should I have any concerns about placing a shim between that curved section?

  4. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Hughes View Post
    Is the outfeed table fixed ? As in no handle or wheel to move the entire table up or down.
    Correct, the outfeed table is fixed. There are adjustments on the left (user side) to adjust its height, but unfortunately there is no way to adjust the height on the right side of the machine where the hinge is. As of now, the table sits a couple thousands above the cutter head on the right/hinge side, and I can lower it to be level with the cutter head on the left/outside. Im not sure how to lower it on the hinge side, perhaps there are already some shims under the hinge that I can remove to lower it?

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Edmonton, Canada
    Posts
    2,359
    What is the process you follow to adjust things? There is a lot that can be achieved with adjusting those two bolts at the front of each table (with the table locked down). The cast Iron does flex a bit. If the machine didn't come with some shims on the hinge side it's likely they are not needed.
    Try to first check if the outfeed is indeed higher than the cutters at the hinge side, if not then you should be able to get the outfeed not higher than the blades all across its width. If the front of outfeed is level and the back (hinge side) is high, try to raise the bolt at the front further away from the cutter. It should help to "lower" the back side of the table (hinge side).
    It is true that you work on the outfeed first but you may have to go back to it and adjust if you cannot get infeed entirely in the same plane with it. It's a bit of back and forth to get everything co-planar....
    Last edited by mreza Salav; 05-05-2021 at 12:46 PM.

  6. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by Sean Moore View Post
    Correct, the outfeed table is fixed. There are adjustments on the left (user side) to adjust its height, but unfortunately there is no way to adjust the height on the right side of the machine where the hinge is. As of now, the table sits a couple thousands above the cutter head on the right/hinge side, and I can lower it to be level with the cutter head on the left/outside. Im not sure how to lower it on the hinge side, perhaps there are already some shims under the hinge that I can remove to lower it?
    You should be able to lower the inboard end of the outfeed table on the hinge side by shimming under the outfeed end of that hinge. Then check that the other side of the outfeed table is level with the cutterhead and check that the outfeed table is not twisted by placing your straightedge diagonally across it from corner to corner. Then move on to the infeed table.

    "It seems that the hinge is a round bar that sits in a mating piece of metal that has a curve milled into it. Should I have any concerns about placing a shim between that curved section?"

    Hard saying without knowing, but that "mating piece" should be bolted to the frame and you should be able to shim under it. Shims in the moving section of a hinge are bound to wear.

  7. #22
    Quote Originally Posted by Sean Moore View Post
    Correct, the outfeed table is fixed. There are adjustments on the left (user side) to adjust its height, but unfortunately there is no way to adjust the height on the right side of the machine where the hinge is.
    That doesn't make any sense, Sean. If there were truly no way to adjust the outfeed table height, it would be impossible to calibrate the machine on the assembly line and there is always a way to do that. Your design look identical to Minimax from the images I see on the web. Four mounting bolts: Two on the hinge side and two on the outboard side. Just like the Italian machines. It won't be a round hand knob like the infeed side. Should be an oversized bolt head though. In your case, if the outfeed table is dropping off, you would shim the outer hinge bolt and the outer stop bolt on the operator's side. Hope this helps,

    Erik
    Felder USA Territory Representative: Central & South Texas

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Peoria, IL
    Posts
    2,431
    Quote Originally Posted by Erik Loza View Post
    That doesn't make any sense, Sean. If there were truly no way to adjust the outfeed table height, it would be impossible to calibrate the machine on the assembly line and there is always a way to do that. Your design look identical to Minimax from the images I see on the web. Four mounting bolts: Two on the hinge side and two on the outboard side. Just like the Italian machines. It won't be a round hand knob like the infeed side. Should be an oversized bolt head though. In your case, if the outfeed table is dropping off, you would shim the outer hinge bolt and the outer stop bolt on the operator's side. Hope this helps,

    Erik
    It's not impossible Erik. Craftsman sold thousands of 6" jointers with a fixed out feed table. I owned one in the '80s and it took at least twice as long to adjust the knives, but it can be done.

  9. #24
    This is a Tersa head though with no way to adjust the knives in the head. I guess if there were no other option the cutterhead pillow blocks could be shimmed, but it is most likely that the table hinge blocks can be independently shimmed and the support bolts on the operator side adjusted to get everything in plane. It's too bad the factory didn't dial it in closer. I don't mind tuning used machines, but it can be tough for someone not in the habit to figure out this particular situation. Jointers are one of the simplest of machines but one of the most frustrating if not set up correctly.

  10. #25
    You can adjust it for making bird houses ,cutting boards, and turning rough wood into less rough wood. For critical work
    like trying to make a sprung joint , 1 and 1/2 thousandths is a lot in both directions.

  11. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by Richard Coers View Post
    It's not impossible Erik. Craftsman sold thousands of 6" jointers with a fixed out feed table. I owned one in the '80s and it took at least twice as long to adjust the knives, but it can be done.
    Richard, yeah, but this is a Robland, not a Sears machine! I’ve never personally seen one of the OP’s machines in person but CANNOT believe there is not simple way to make that adjustment. With all due respect to the OP, I feel like he must just not be seeing it. Just my semi-educated opinion.

    Erik
    Felder USA Territory Representative: Central & South Texas

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