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Thread: Stanley #95 (and Clone) Owners: Possible to Adjust Blade for Out of Square Fence?

  1. #1

    Stanley #95 (and Clone) Owners: Possible to Adjust Blade for Out of Square Fence?

    I have a #95 that I got off ebay a couple years back. When I checked it out the fence and the sole were not square to one another, they are a few degrees greater than 90 at slightly obtuse angle. After playing with it a little, setting the blade by eyeing down the sole and looking for an even blade protrusion like one would with a smoothing plane for ex., and having it cut slightly off 90° as expected ... I chalked it up to one of those ebay purchases where one gets a dud. While intrigued by its shape and design and enjoying its cutting action I've since relegated it to my unreliable tool category.

    I'm now wondering if the fence and sole need to be 90° to one another? Can the blade be adjusted so it is skewed ever so slightly to the fence to create the requisite 90° angle, and with pressure applied downward on the sole when in use? It appears to work. Are there any drawbacks to this in putting the plane through its paces?
    Last edited by Ned Mcbee; 04-29-2021 at 5:11 PM.

  2. #2
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    The tool benefits from a square fence. This makes it predictable.

    I would either file/sand the fence until it is square, or shim with wood. To do this, use a squared block of wood with 120 grit sandpaper glued to one side.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  3. #3
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    It appears to work.
    Appearances can be deceiving. However if a tool can be made to do its function, why complain?

    Was the angle measured between the sole and the fence or was it checked on the work?

    If it was checked on the work, the skew of the blade may be off.

    If it is between the sole and the fence, then Derek's advice is likely a good way to correct the problem.

    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    The tool benefits from a square fence. This makes it predictable.

    I would either file/sand the fence until it is square, or shim with wood. To do this, use a squared block of wood with 120 grit sandpaper glued to one side.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Please keep us informed and if possible document it for those who may have the same problem in the future.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    The tool benefits from a square fence. This makes it predictable.

    I would either file/sand the fence until it is square, or shim with wood. To do this, use a squared block of wood with 120 grit sandpaper glued to one side.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Thanks for the solution Derek.
    Unfortunately there's not allot of real estate - 7/8" - of sole width to fit a fence with countersunk holes to accommodate screws, but its likely the only option.

    While on this subject of fencing the #95:
    I'm restoring some cabinet doors and reading through Charles Hayward's writings on fashioning the meeting of two door stiles ... one option is rabbeting both doors where they meet. This is the case on my current project. The outside door's rabbet is not square ... it's angled a little more than 90° (as is the door's edge) to prevent binding when the doors are opened/closed: about 93-95°. The shoulders need to be about 17/32 deep.
    I'm trying to figure out a way to cut this slight angle on the rabbet's shoulder (which I've been cutting with a Stanley #78) and am wondering if the #95 with some auxiliary fence would do the job and/or is there a better solution?
    Last edited by Ned Mcbee; 04-30-2021 at 4:07 PM.

  5. #5
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    Ned

    The LN is the same size as the Stanley. Here is the LN with a spacer (to rebate to a depth of 1/4") ..







    You should be able to do this. And a reason for a square-to-body fence.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  6. #6
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    Here is the LN with a spacer (to rebate to a depth of 1/4") ..
    Derek, Does this have a notch in it provide clearance for the blade adjustment?

    Have you used angled spacers for use with cutting sliding dovetails?

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  7. #7
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    Jim, yes (to the clearance for the blade) and sort of (for angled spacer).

    The spacer in the LN Edge Plane is squared ...




    It is attached with screws ...




    It was simply to make a 1/4" wide rebate on the edge of a drawer front ..



    For dovetailing, I have an angled spacer against the fence of a Stanley #79 ...



    This will plane a dovetail, but it is easier to make the rebate first ...



    Now the Edge Plane can do the same if you add an angled spacer ...



    However, it will have a fixed depth, unlike the Stanley #79, which has an adjustable fence/depth stop.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

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