Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 28 of 28

Thread: DC on switch(es) or remote start?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Tampa Bay, FL
    Posts
    3,895
    I downloaded the FWW Aug 2000 Dust Detector article. Unfortunately, it mentions that the wiring for 240V is on the facing page, but isn't in the download. Does anyone have that facing page and can provide it for download?
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Manistique, Michigan
    Posts
    1,367
    I have a Clearvue cyclone and use the remote arrangement plans they had in their site at the time. It uses a 120 V which pulls in a normally open relay to start the 220 V motor. I have had it since 2007 and it works well. The remote takes an odd battery like an A123 or something like that. The plans for this remote are also in the manual supplied with the cyclone. You need a box to mount the relay - mine is 8 x 8 x 4" deep. The relay is a two pole single throw 30 amp minimum rating with a 120V coil. The remote is a plug in adaptor that is remote control. Connect the 220V power in to one side of the coil and the motor to the opposite side. Then use cord that is wired to the coil and plugs into the remote adaptor. It has been dependable except for when the battery gets weak in the remote. I changed it twice since 2007.
    Last edited by Rich Aldrich; 05-04-2021 at 9:37 PM.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Millstone, NJ
    Posts
    1,590
    I use the clearvue remote as well. I looked into automating but once I started reading about it I got scared off. The automated ports can end up burning out your DC motor if it doesnt cycle long enough. Short cycles on motors can lead to their early demise. There are ways of creating delays but I didnt want to get into it. Im fine with using the remote and making sure i leave it on for a minute, and waiting for a minute before turning it back on.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Doylestown, PA
    Posts
    7,551
    Quote Originally Posted by roger wiegand View Post
    I installed a contactor at the dc and then dropped hardwired switches in four places around the shop at the most commonly used machines. I'm never more than two steps away from a switch when I need one (90% of the time I'm no steps away), I can always find them, and they always work. Plus they were cheap to install-- regular 14 ga romex and four-way switches. Could have gone with a low voltage control system but I already had the wire and switches so it was easier to do a 120v control circuit. I'm a happy camper.
    I have a centrally located switch - small shop - but if i had a larger shop Roger's solution would be my choice. I'm not a fan of wireless anything - electrical or data - when there's a practical wired alternative. Practical being key.

  5. Does anyone have a link as to how to use a 120v switch for a 240v DC?

  6. #21
    use a contactor

    you just need to make sure the contactor has a 120V coil if you want to use a 120V switch

    the 240V power from the outlet connects on one side you connect the other side to the DC power input

    crimp on spade connectors to the cord ends and they slide right on the contactor

    the 120V switch connects in the middle and opens and closes the contactor to send power and turn the DC on or off. I use a wireless remote but nothing wrong with a good old light switch if that's your thing

    as an example, in the link for the contactor below, the 240V goes in on one of the gold terminal sides and out on the other. The 120V switch would connect one wire on each side in the middle using the sliver terminals




    I've used this before $10.14
    https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

    good luck

  7. #22
    I am overhauling my dust collection now, but it will be similar to my old setup, which uses a simple relay powered by a 24v transformer with micro switches on the gates to activate it. My old system had switches on all gates, but now I will probably use fewer gate switches, as the new system needs a longer run cycle. I just want to be able to start it wherever I am by cracking open a gate, and I can turn it off whenever.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    E TN, near Knoxville
    Posts
    12,298
    I hang remote switchs near the lathe, bandsaw, drum sander, and other tools so one is always handy.

    The ClearVue electronics option came with a keyfob remote and a receiver to control the motor contactor. They sold spare remotes but the price was too high. I found the identical receiver/remote on Amazon for less then what ClearVue wanted for the remote alone and bought several to get extra remotes. I figure it wouldn't hurt to have a spare receiver or two in case the first one fails some day.

    I walk to the machine, open the blast gate, and use the remote at that machine if the DC is not already running. (I leave it running unless I won't be using it for a while. I think the recommendations for large motors is to start no more than 6 times per hour.)

    JKJ

    Quote Originally Posted by Christopher Charles View Post
    Hi all,

    As noted in a different thread, I'm in the process of going to dust collection 2.0. I've had a Long Ranger remote to start and stop my system for a long time and it has worked well. Except for keeping track of the remote.... That said, I've been switching a single hose from machine to machine, so no dealing with blast gates. But I will need to have gates on my new set up where everything will be 'hard piped'. So I'm planning to switch over (pun intended) to using switched blast gates located right at each machine.

    I searched the forum, but didn't find an obvious thread on what folks prefer in terms of switching for dust collection and why. Curious what folks have and what they like and don't like.

    Best,
    Chris

  9. Quote Originally Posted by Alex LaZella View Post
    use a contactor

    you just need to make sure the contactor has a 120V coil if you want to use a 120V switch

    the 240V power from the outlet connects on one side you connect the other side to the DC power input

    crimp on spade connectors to the cord ends and they slide right on the contactor

    the 120V switch connects in the middle and opens and closes the contactor to send power and turn the DC on or off. I use a wireless remote but nothing wrong with a good old light switch if that's your thing

    as an example, in the link for the contactor below, the 240V goes in on one of the gold terminal sides and out on the other. The 120V switch would connect one wire on each side in the middle using the sliver terminals




    I've used this before $10.14
    https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

    good luck

    Thank You So Much Alex! That really explained the process clearly for me...such an awesome 'tweak'

    Chris

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    San Francisco Bay Area
    Posts
    271
    My clearvue came with a contactor and I ended up buying a Lutron Wireless relay and their pico remotes to activate the contactor. I think the relay could be paired up with like 8-10 of the pico remotes. I then picked up like 7 pico remotes on eBay over about 6 months for like $10-15 each and have ones mounted to all my major tools. Good luck

  11. Quote Originally Posted by Alex LaZella View Post
    use a contactor

    you just need to make sure the contactor has a 120V coil if you want to use a 120V switch

    the 240V power from the outlet connects on one side you connect the other side to the DC power input

    crimp on spade connectors to the cord ends and they slide right on the contactor

    the 120V switch connects in the middle and opens and closes the contactor to send power and turn the DC on or off. I use a wireless remote but nothing wrong with a good old light switch if that's your thing

    as an example, in the link for the contactor below, the 240V goes in on one of the gold terminal sides and out on the other. The 120V switch would connect one wire on each side in the middle using the sliver terminals




    I've used this before $10.14
    https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

    good luck

    So many choices of a 120v remote switch, would you all mind sharing the remote's you chose?

  12. Hi Alex, I received the contactor, and this remote: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0814QT8QP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    https://www.diychatroom.com/threads/wiring-220-and-relay.57498/#lg=thread-57498&slide=0


    I understand the connection of the 240v input to two brass lugs, and two leads to the 240 v DC to the other side's brass lugs. It's the remote wiring I'm not sure, it has 4 leads, a L and N 'In", and a L and N "out". Do 2 leads go to one set of the silver lugs, and the other set of two, going to the other side's silver lug?

    And lastly, I'm assuming, when I attach a wire to a lug, and I should attach the corresponding wire should match the same lug?


    The diagrams shows the remote connection only using two leads. Pretty confused

    Thanks,
    Chris


    Quote Originally Posted by Alex LaZella View Post
    use a contactor

    you just need to make sure the contactor has a 120V coil if you want to use a 120V switch

    the 240V power from the outlet connects on one side you connect the other side to the DC power input

    crimp on spade connectors to the cord ends and they slide right on the contactor

    the 120V switch connects in the middle and opens and closes the contactor to send power and turn the DC on or off. I use a wireless remote but nothing wrong with a good old light switch if that's your thing

    as an example, in the link for the contactor below, the 240V goes in on one of the gold terminal sides and out on the other. The 120V switch would connect one wire on each side in the middle using the sliver terminals




    I've used this before $10.14
    https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

    good luck
    Last edited by Christopher Glanton; 05-11-2021 at 1:17 PM.

  13. Finally found this if anyone interested: http://waterheatertimer.org/Control-...with-WeMo.html

    Look under Use ordinary household remote control

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •