I downloaded the FWW Aug 2000 Dust Detector article. Unfortunately, it mentions that the wiring for 240V is on the facing page, but isn't in the download. Does anyone have that facing page and can provide it for download?
I downloaded the FWW Aug 2000 Dust Detector article. Unfortunately, it mentions that the wiring for 240V is on the facing page, but isn't in the download. Does anyone have that facing page and can provide it for download?
- After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
- It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.
I have a Clearvue cyclone and use the remote arrangement plans they had in their site at the time. It uses a 120 V which pulls in a normally open relay to start the 220 V motor. I have had it since 2007 and it works well. The remote takes an odd battery like an A123 or something like that. The plans for this remote are also in the manual supplied with the cyclone. You need a box to mount the relay - mine is 8 x 8 x 4" deep. The relay is a two pole single throw 30 amp minimum rating with a 120V coil. The remote is a plug in adaptor that is remote control. Connect the 220V power in to one side of the coil and the motor to the opposite side. Then use cord that is wired to the coil and plugs into the remote adaptor. It has been dependable except for when the battery gets weak in the remote. I changed it twice since 2007.
Last edited by Rich Aldrich; 05-04-2021 at 9:37 PM.
I use the clearvue remote as well. I looked into automating but once I started reading about it I got scared off. The automated ports can end up burning out your DC motor if it doesnt cycle long enough. Short cycles on motors can lead to their early demise. There are ways of creating delays but I didnt want to get into it. Im fine with using the remote and making sure i leave it on for a minute, and waiting for a minute before turning it back on.
Does anyone have a link as to how to use a 120v switch for a 240v DC?
use a contactor
you just need to make sure the contactor has a 120V coil if you want to use a 120V switch
the 240V power from the outlet connects on one side you connect the other side to the DC power input
crimp on spade connectors to the cord ends and they slide right on the contactor
the 120V switch connects in the middle and opens and closes the contactor to send power and turn the DC on or off. I use a wireless remote but nothing wrong with a good old light switch if that's your thing
as an example, in the link for the contactor below, the 240V goes in on one of the gold terminal sides and out on the other. The 120V switch would connect one wire on each side in the middle using the sliver terminals
I've used this before $10.14
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1.
good luck
I am overhauling my dust collection now, but it will be similar to my old setup, which uses a simple relay powered by a 24v transformer with micro switches on the gates to activate it. My old system had switches on all gates, but now I will probably use fewer gate switches, as the new system needs a longer run cycle. I just want to be able to start it wherever I am by cracking open a gate, and I can turn it off whenever.
I hang remote switchs near the lathe, bandsaw, drum sander, and other tools so one is always handy.
The ClearVue electronics option came with a keyfob remote and a receiver to control the motor contactor. They sold spare remotes but the price was too high. I found the identical receiver/remote on Amazon for less then what ClearVue wanted for the remote alone and bought several to get extra remotes. I figure it wouldn't hurt to have a spare receiver or two in case the first one fails some day.
I walk to the machine, open the blast gate, and use the remote at that machine if the DC is not already running. (I leave it running unless I won't be using it for a while. I think the recommendations for large motors is to start no more than 6 times per hour.)
JKJ
My clearvue came with a contactor and I ended up buying a Lutron Wireless relay and their pico remotes to activate the contactor. I think the relay could be paired up with like 8-10 of the pico remotes. I then picked up like 7 pico remotes on eBay over about 6 months for like $10-15 each and have ones mounted to all my major tools. Good luck
Hi Alex, I received the contactor, and this remote: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0814QT8QP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.diychatroom.com/threads/wiring-220-and-relay.57498/#lg=thread-57498&slide=0
I understand the connection of the 240v input to two brass lugs, and two leads to the 240 v DC to the other side's brass lugs. It's the remote wiring I'm not sure, it has 4 leads, a L and N 'In", and a L and N "out". Do 2 leads go to one set of the silver lugs, and the other set of two, going to the other side's silver lug?
And lastly, I'm assuming, when I attach a wire to a lug, and I should attach the corresponding wire should match the same lug?
The diagrams shows the remote connection only using two leads. Pretty confused
Thanks,
Chris
Last edited by Christopher Glanton; 05-11-2021 at 1:17 PM.
Finally found this if anyone interested: http://waterheatertimer.org/Control-...with-WeMo.html
Look under Use ordinary household remote control