To all vintage Craftsman power tool owners/woodworkers who love to bring tools to life, for information and guidance:
I own a 1965 Craftsman 10" radial arm saw, model number 113.29410. My father bought this new and to my knowledge never used it. It sat in my garage for 25 years after my father's death in 1996. In 2019, I discarded the metal cabinet and mounted it on a Kreg Tool universal bench frame, disassembled it to return it to working order (the original machine grease had hardened), and made a new MDF cutting table to match the original one.
Here are my questions:
1. I understand there was a recall on this model in the 1980's for the blade guard assembly. In researching this issue, I found that the company that was manufacturing and providing the replacement kit to Craftsman owners is no longer producing the kit. Does anyone know of the kit's availability?
2. I plan on using the machine for cross cutting and am aware of the controversey related to the danger of ripping wood stock. In viewing videos demonstrating tuning up this power tool, some people have made their own new cutting table, always with 90 and 45 degree cuts into the cutting table. I don't understand the reason for this. Is it neccessary to make these cuts?
3. I understand the fence is scarificial, but I plan on putting a tape measure on the top of the fence for left and right cross cuts. Does anyone one have an alternative fence design to incorporate measuring tape and avoid the fence from being scarificial?
4. Right now all of the component parts are in working order. Some parts though show there age and are not worth the time to refurish. I know Craftsman has a parts website for some of the most commonly requested parts, but does anyone know of sites/companies that I could research for a wider availability of parts?
5. Are the any suggestion for tuning up this tool that I should consider? Any specific blade type (other then for cross cutting) or blade manufacturer that I should consider?
6. In terms of lubricate, the swivel of the radial arm on the adjustable post is the most difficult to do since it requires removal of the end cap and to place a saturated cloth of lubricant on a wooden dowel to lubricate the lock pin. Does anyone have a suggestion for any easier method? This model does not have a slotted cut out of the caste iron arm for easier access to the lock pin.
As with my first posting, regarding a vintage 1965 Caftsman 10" table saw, I look forward to your responses.
Mark Mrsa