Old huge router - keep? Or look for something else?

[Chess Baloo]

Hi. Complete noob here. Getting ready to retire in less than a year and I want to start playing around with woodworking. I had never used a router until this weekend so I really mean NOOB. I have a nice little trim router that I recently bought, and I am just learning how to use it - it's pretty cool. :-) I mentioned to my BF that I was looking at router tables online and that I might build one. He said if I was going to do that I really should just use a full size router and leave it in the table, and he had a router that I could have. I thought - hmm...nice. Well he went out to the barn and finally dug out this big case and brought it out to me. We opened it, and yup it's a router. He has never used it - I think he may have loaned out out once or twice but that's about it. He isn't into woodworking (he's more of a car guy) but someone gave it to him as a gift, many years ago, and he just kept it. But here is the thing - this router is HUGE. And I think it is pretty old. So I am just wondering if it is worth even trying to use. I mean, would it make sense to spend the effort to build a table for this thing? Or should I just say thanks but never mind and give it back, and get my own router, when I am ready.
I'm not sure what features may be missing on it - I don't think this is one that the base comes off of, so not sure it can be used as a plunge router. But I think a fixed base is what I would need for a table mounted one anyway.

This is the router (I found a couple of them for sale on eBay) so that you can see what I am talking about.
eBay item# 265028771055

Appreciate any advice or thoughts.

[Mel Fulks]

Not all routing is done on a router table. Bigger routers are good for removing wood to make dados, rabbeting ,and spinning large bits. And can also be used on a
router table. I’m guessing the router you show is just 1and 1/2 horsepower , and they go up to 3 horse, at least.

[Warren Wilson]

If the size of the plate is standard, why not start with that one. Later, if you want to swap it out with a newer model, it will not be difficult to fit.

[David Dockstader]

A 1 1/2 HP is not that big. That's about a good starting position for a router table and it's still small enough to use hand-held.

[Roger Feeley]

Sometimes I want a big heavy router. More mass means it’s less likely to kick back. I have a 3hp dewalt that was in my router table for years. I upgraded to a Jessem lift and one of those Milwaukee routers with the external switch and speed control (awesome) and I kept the dewalt. I use it from time to time.

I agree that that craftsman router is sort of mid-size. I would politely pass on this router for two reasons:

1. The thing that holds the router bit is called the collet. Your trim router probably only handles 1/4” bits. Most mid-sized routers today come with collets for 1/4” and 1/2” bits. You are going to want to use half inch bits, particularly if you use the router in a table. I found the manual and it appears that this router only takes 1/4” bits. The collet is built into the end of the motor shaft.
2. Most routers today are variable speed. This router appears to be fixed at 25,000. I don’t usually run my routers full speed to avoid burning. Big bits like panel raising bits definitely go slower.

But I already have three hand held routers. This router will give you more mass than the trim router. If you take it, remember to always store it with no bit installed. There are threads about folks with stuck bits. Some folks put a little o-ring at the bottom of the collet. If the bit gets stuck, a little tap with a block of wood will break it loose.

[Chess Baloo]

Sometimes I want a big heavy router. More mass means it’s less likely to kick back. I have a 3hp dewalt that was in my router table for years. I upgraded to a Jessem lift and one of those Milwaukee routers with the external switch and speed control (awesome) and I kept the dewalt. I use it from time to time.

I agree that that craftsman router is sort of mid-size. I would politely pass on this router for two reasons:

1. The thing that holds the router bit is called the collet. Your trim router probably only handles 1/4” bits. Most mid-sized routers today come with collets for 1/4” and 1/2” bits. You are going to want to use half inch bits, particularly if you use the router in a table. I found the manual and it appears that this router only takes 1/4” bits. The collet is built into the end of the motor shaft.
2. Most routers today are variable speed. This router appears to be fixed at 25,000. I don’t usually run my routers full speed to avoid burning. Big bits like panel raising bits definitely go slower.

But I already have three hand held routers. This router will give you more mass than the trim router. If you take it, remember to always store it with no bit installed. There are threads about folks with stuck bits. Some folks put a little o-ring at the bottom of the collet. If the bit gets stuck, a little tap with a block of wood will break it loose.

Thank you very much!

[Chess Baloo]

A 1 1/2 HP is not that big. That's about a good starting position for a router table and it's still small enough to use hand-held.

It is larger - WAY larger - than any router I have ever seen. I am not referring to the motor size, I am talking about the physical size. It's not "small" by any stretch of the imagination.

[glenn bradley]

It is larger - WAY larger - than any router I have ever seen. I am not referring to the motor size, I am talking about the physical size. It's not "small" by any stretch of the imagination.

If the link is taking us to the right place this may be a matter of perception based on experience.

The-Mil-Crew.jpg

The router in the middle is about the size of the one in your link. The one on the left is a 2-1/4 HP and the one on the right is a 3HP with the handles removed to fit in a table. A 1-1/2 HP router is pretty light for table work but, it is what I started with. Many people find a 2-1/4 HP table router to be fine.

Starting with a free router for a table is certainly a windfall and I would take advantage of it. If nothing else you will get some time with it to see what you do and do not need in a table router for your work. I got a Ryobi router for free (or darn near IIRC) way back and I learned from that experience. It taught me that a router that vibrates that much is pretty useless. Seriously though, the time spent with it was well spent.

[Roger Feeley]

I got a Ryobi router for free (or darn near IIRC) way back and I learned from that experience. It taught me that a router that vibrates that much is pretty useless. Seriously though, the time spent with it was well spent.

I was doing some freehand routing once and there was just a little bit of vibration. I found it sort of handy. I was able to move the router with more precision.

[Curt Harms]

I had a router like the Ebay listing, that model has 2 issues. One is that the cooling fan on the motor shaft tends to shed blades which causes lots of vibration. The second issue is that it doesn't have a collet in the usual sense. Most routers have a removable collet that can be replaced when it wears. The collet fits into a machined socket on the end of the motor shaft. The collet may wear, the motor shaft doesn't The Sears router has the collet formed into the end of the motor shaft. There is no way to replace it except to replace the motor shaft which is impractical. I think most would recommend a fixed base/plunge base combo as a first router. They're typically 2.25 h.p. and can do most routing jobs. That size router can also be used in a router table though people that use a table a lot or heavy use like raised panels prefer a larger more powerful router. I'd recommend a trip to a couple home centers and put hands on some different models, see which ones feel good to you.

[Chess Baloo]

If the link is taking us to the right place this may be a matter of perception based on experience.

I suppose it could be. I only know the routers that I have seen in HD or Lowes. This thing is a beast compared to those.

[Dave Sabo]

Chess - that is a lousy router for use in a table.

Besides the drawbacks mentioned , I don’t think it accepts a 1/2” collet. It’s also single speed, ugh. The spindle lock is a pain to engage under a table. The on off trigger is not ideal for switching in a table setup. And , height adjustment is a real faff table mounted. Don’t believe it will fit any lift plates either . So, it’s a bad choice for table work.

[Rick Potter]

It is a little used router.

It's free.

Of course you want it.

Even if it only takes 1/4" bits, it is still very useful, and because of the larger, more stable base you may find it handier than you think.

[Alex Zeller]

My question is how much money do you have/ want to put towards woodworking? If money is going to be tight then I would use it, free is free. However if I was ok with spending money I would want a router with a soft start feature while learning. Maybe years down the road you will have more routers than you know what to do with but for now I wouldn't dedicate one to a router table. You don't need a giant 3hp router either. A nice mid-sized one (2hp ish) would serve you well for most anything you will want to do. Those older non soft start routers tend to jerk when you turn them on. If not careful and depending where the switch is it can twist it right out of your hands. Your trim router is going to be limited on what it'll do so you will want something larger.

[Chess Baloo]

My question is how much money do you have/ want to put towards woodworking? If money is going to be tight then I would use it, free is free. However if I was ok with spending money I would want a router with a soft start feature while learning. Maybe years down the road you will have more routers than you know what to do with but for now I wouldn't dedicate one to a router table. You don't need a giant 3hp router either. A nice mid-sized one (2hp ish) would serve you well for most anything you will want to do. Those older non soft start routers tend to jerk when you turn them on. If not careful and depending where the switch is it can twist it right out of your hands. Your trim router is going to be limited on what it'll do so you will want something larger.

Money is not too much of an issue. I can easily afford to get decent woodworking tools. BF knows that, he just is the type to make use of something that is cheap or free rather than spending money on something better.
I, fortunately or unfortunately, do not have that same view.