Dust collection piping ceiling mounting questions

[Thomas Canfield]

'
'I hung 4 and 6" duct off sloping ceiling from 10'to 14' using perforated metal plumbers hanging strap and lag screws at ceiling and machine bolts with loop at duct. Simple and cheap.

[Deryl Dowell]

I saw this idea on some forum, and decided to use it. Basically, cable tie mounts that can support fairly wide cable ties: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Using one every 16" or so, even on 6" pvc piping, is not a load especially if you plan out using the joists. It's clean, it is cheap, it minimizes penetrations into the ceiling, and it works perfectly. I wish I could find the original poster so I could thank him for the idea. 12 bucks for the mounts, and about the same for (50) 24" ties.
someone mentioned "check the weight on 10' of 6" pvc" - actually, I've found it is the fittings that are surprisingly heavy, but; consider that for a 10' piece, (7) 1-3/4" screws into ceiling joists are only being tasked with a few pounds each - they aren't even "breathing hard".

[Rick Potter]

My 8" and 6" spiral HVAC style pipes are held by a system kinda like Larry Frank's. I made them from 2x8's and band sawed them to upside down cradle the pipe, using one screw to hold it to the ceiling joists (drywalled). I angled the ends a bit so I could just use plumbers tape with a screw on each side of the bracket to hold the pipe.

It has been in for over 12 years, and never any problems. I didn't want the pipe to be any lower than necessary, and the top of the pipe is within 1 1/2" of the ceiling. The brackets would hang it several inches lower, and the unistrut would add to that. I wanted to avoid that.

My whole bracket system probably cost under $20, and looks pretty good.

[Randall J Cox]

OK, bought three 20' lengths of 5" thinwall pvc drain pipe (pvc). To save $ I'm going to use my existing long 90 degree HVAC metal ductwork (from my last shop before I moved) for the bends. As the inside of the 5" pvc is actually 5.25" in dia, my plan is to saw back 2" in 3-4 places on the end, use my heat gun to soften the pipe and use band clamps to form the hot, pliable pvc around a 5" wooden form that I plan to turn on my lathe. That's my plan for making them fit together. Anybody done this before? If so, anything to watch out for? Hairbrained idea or should it work? Will PVC give off fumes if heated? Hopefully not toxic!! I'll do with all doors and windows open.... Any insight into my plan appreciated. Randy

[Deryl Dowell]

Randy, I have done some pvc bending, and there is a very toxic chemical when you heat it. Probably safest would be outside with a quality respirator, but I did it with the garage doors open and fans blowing (I'm a retired O5 as well for explanation). You can also make sleeves to fit inside the 5" pvc; just cut a 4" or so section, and then cut a piece out of it so it compresses into the pipe. For my 6" pvc, it takes about a 1.25" section. For 4", it's around 5/8".

[Randall J Cox]

Wow, thanks Deryl. Never had thought about putting a piece inside to take up some slack, good idea. Lots less toxic than heating and sounds easier. Randy