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Thread: Router Tables - Cast Iron vs Phenolic vs MDF

  1. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Earl McLain View Post
    I'm wondering if MDO might be an alternative to MDF? Seems like it might handle the humidity a little better--coupled with a torsion box style support?
    earl
    I like the cheap melamine board . It’s slick and it is plenty strong for a router table. I don’t even have edging on mine and it stays in garage.
    STOP building the SHOP and make MONEY !!

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Cedar Park, TX - Boulder Creek, CA
    Posts
    832
    Phenolic comes in many grades. 'Linen', and 'Paper' being common terms for 'some' in the industry. So if you don't run into any fibers cutting it it could be paper based, rather than canvas or glass.

    The torsion box setup shown is an option, but I think just bonding some ribs underneath around the lift opening should be sufficient. You need to put something there to create a pocket anyway.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Left Coast
    Posts
    78
    That's a very, very nice router table....well done!

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Upland CA
    Posts
    5,548
    Michael,

    Really like your router table, especially the way you handled the Incra setup, without having it taking up space permanently.

    You should submit that one to a magazine....before someone else does.
    Rick Potter

    DIY journeyman,
    FWW wannabe.
    AKA Village Idiot.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Punta Gorda, FL
    Posts
    3,028
    Looking at the Woodpecker fence and the Harvey cast iron router table extension, the slots where the fence connects to the table seem to be very different. I'm guessing the fix would be to drill new holes in the fence to match the cast iron table, should I go that way. Decisions, decisions...
    “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness..." - Mark Twain

  6. #21
    I have never purchased a router plate or router lift or router table. I used a setup in my table saw extension wing for awhile. The top was melamine and I just thinned the bottom so the area I mounted a router base to was about 3/8 thick. I had a hole for the bit to come through and I made a fence I think I still have. It worked but it seemed like I always needed to use the table saw when I got the router setup dialed in. It got in the way. If I was better organized it might have worked longer term.

    So I use a separate router table now that is shaped like Norm's but has a home made router lift bolted to the 3/4 plywood back. Top tilts up for bit changes. Top is a sink cutout edged with hardwood and backed with 3/4 plywood. It doesn't support the router so it stays flat. The fence is also home made and clamps in place with minature bar clamps. DC sucks from the fence and the router compartment. The latter is ducted up to the collet area so it doesn't fight the router cooling fan. It sits on totally locking casters so it is easily moved. I really like this table and would not trade it for any commercially offered table. I know it and it does what I need it to do. Motor is a PC7518.

    I live in SC so I deal with humidity too but I don't think that is what causes sag in wood router table tops. Steel is somewhat unique in not yielding at all until you get to it's yield point. Most material, including aluminum and wood, yield at low loads just not very much. Supporting the router creates enough stress in the wooden top to cause it to move - yield. MDF is the weakest so it will do it more. Particle board is better, especially high density particle board like a sink cutout. Plywood is next but does warp sometimes. Solid wood is strongest but it does move from moisture changes. It cam be checked and trued as necessary. But mounting the motor to a carriage supported by the cabinet back solved the issue for me.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Punta Gorda, FL
    Posts
    3,028
    I contacted Woodpeckers and they said their Super Fence will work with the Harvey cast iron table. Just ordered the table.

    Hope the shock of this new setup doesn't give me a heart attack!
    “Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness..." - Mark Twain

  8. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Charles Coolidge View Post
    I'm a cast iron fan and went with this purchased setup vs building my own in the interest of time.

    Attachment 456191

    Attachment 456192
    I have the Jet version of that table, looks exactly the same except for the livery. The “mobility solution” for it was so awful that I ended up bagging and tagging it and putting the thing on a Portamate. Did you have any issues with it?

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Nova Scotia, Canada
    Posts
    280
    Hi Julie,
    I’d appreciate knowing how you like the new setup once you are up and running. I’ve followed this thread with some interest since I’d like to do something similar at some point. It’ll be a fall project most likely so there’s no rush.
    Have you posted any pictures of your new saw?
    Best regards,
    David

  10. Quote Originally Posted by Doug Dawson View Post
    I have the Jet version of that table, looks exactly the same except for the livery. The “mobility solution” for it was so awful that I ended up bagging and tagging it and putting the thing on a Portamate. Did you have any issues with it?
    What specifically was the issue with the mobile base? It's working fine for me so far no issues but we'll see how long those cheesy wheels hold up. They are an odd size like 2" and 2.5" which are not easy to source in urethane with bearings or I may have already replaced them. Agree the Jet and SawStop are the exact same base and table.

    I have an extra Grizzly T31566 - Bear Crawl All Swivel HD Mobile Base if needed. I put one on a Powermatic mortising machine recently and its nice.

  11. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by Charles Coolidge View Post
    What specifically was the issue with the mobile base? It's working fine for me so far no issues but we'll see how long those cheesy wheels hold up. They are an odd size like 2" and 2.5" which are not easy to source in urethane with bearings or I may have already replaced them. Agree the Jet and SawStop are the exact same base and table.
    Using the stock mounting positions for the two fixed wheels, you had to jack up the levelers so high to get the unit to not catch over a slightly uneven floor that the assembly felt rickety in use, as I remember it (a few years ago.) I didn’t think it was particularly well engineered. Maybe SawStop spec’ed in a fix for that.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Location
    sykesville, maryland
    Posts
    861
    I'm a cast iron man. I purchased this one because it included folding support legs and a nice fence.

    https://www.shopyourway.com/general-...-kit/628082744

    Not sure if it's still available from General, but the one sawstop is selling looks identical.

    I put an Incra PRL-V2 rapid lift in it. Love it. As others have mentioned the only issue is I wish table front to blade were a few inches wider. But, in reality, it is seldom needed. Plus the entire tablesaw top can be used simply by flipping the fence to the other side and feeding from the opposite direction.

    This replaced a stand-alone table that was much bigger with a sliding table. Worth it for the space savings, to me.

    Mounting it just involved match drilling holes in the tablesaw top. With the legs it's well supported.

  13. #28
    John took the exact words right out of my mouth.

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