Phenolic comes in many grades. 'Linen', and 'Paper' being common terms for 'some' in the industry. So if you don't run into any fibers cutting it it could be paper based, rather than canvas or glass.
The torsion box setup shown is an option, but I think just bonding some ribs underneath around the lift opening should be sufficient. You need to put something there to create a pocket anyway.
That's a very, very nice router table....well done!
Michael,
Really like your router table, especially the way you handled the Incra setup, without having it taking up space permanently.
You should submit that one to a magazine....before someone else does.
Rick Potter
DIY journeyman,
FWW wannabe.
AKA Village Idiot.
Looking at the Woodpecker fence and the Harvey cast iron router table extension, the slots where the fence connects to the table seem to be very different. I'm guessing the fix would be to drill new holes in the fence to match the cast iron table, should I go that way. Decisions, decisions...
“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness..." - Mark Twain
I have never purchased a router plate or router lift or router table. I used a setup in my table saw extension wing for awhile. The top was melamine and I just thinned the bottom so the area I mounted a router base to was about 3/8 thick. I had a hole for the bit to come through and I made a fence I think I still have. It worked but it seemed like I always needed to use the table saw when I got the router setup dialed in. It got in the way. If I was better organized it might have worked longer term.
So I use a separate router table now that is shaped like Norm's but has a home made router lift bolted to the 3/4 plywood back. Top tilts up for bit changes. Top is a sink cutout edged with hardwood and backed with 3/4 plywood. It doesn't support the router so it stays flat. The fence is also home made and clamps in place with minature bar clamps. DC sucks from the fence and the router compartment. The latter is ducted up to the collet area so it doesn't fight the router cooling fan. It sits on totally locking casters so it is easily moved. I really like this table and would not trade it for any commercially offered table. I know it and it does what I need it to do. Motor is a PC7518.
I live in SC so I deal with humidity too but I don't think that is what causes sag in wood router table tops. Steel is somewhat unique in not yielding at all until you get to it's yield point. Most material, including aluminum and wood, yield at low loads just not very much. Supporting the router creates enough stress in the wooden top to cause it to move - yield. MDF is the weakest so it will do it more. Particle board is better, especially high density particle board like a sink cutout. Plywood is next but does warp sometimes. Solid wood is strongest but it does move from moisture changes. It cam be checked and trued as necessary. But mounting the motor to a carriage supported by the cabinet back solved the issue for me.
I contacted Woodpeckers and they said their Super Fence will work with the Harvey cast iron table. Just ordered the table.
Hope the shock of this new setup doesn't give me a heart attack!
“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness..." - Mark Twain
Hi Julie,
I’d appreciate knowing how you like the new setup once you are up and running. I’ve followed this thread with some interest since I’d like to do something similar at some point. It’ll be a fall project most likely so there’s no rush.
Have you posted any pictures of your new saw?
Best regards,
David
What specifically was the issue with the mobile base? It's working fine for me so far no issues but we'll see how long those cheesy wheels hold up. They are an odd size like 2" and 2.5" which are not easy to source in urethane with bearings or I may have already replaced them. Agree the Jet and SawStop are the exact same base and table.
I have an extra Grizzly T31566 - Bear Crawl All Swivel HD Mobile Base if needed. I put one on a Powermatic mortising machine recently and its nice.
Using the stock mounting positions for the two fixed wheels, you had to jack up the levelers so high to get the unit to not catch over a slightly uneven floor that the assembly felt rickety in use, as I remember it (a few years ago.) I didn’t think it was particularly well engineered. Maybe SawStop spec’ed in a fix for that.
I'm a cast iron man. I purchased this one because it included folding support legs and a nice fence.
https://www.shopyourway.com/general-...-kit/628082744
Not sure if it's still available from General, but the one sawstop is selling looks identical.
I put an Incra PRL-V2 rapid lift in it. Love it. As others have mentioned the only issue is I wish table front to blade were a few inches wider. But, in reality, it is seldom needed. Plus the entire tablesaw top can be used simply by flipping the fence to the other side and feeding from the opposite direction.
This replaced a stand-alone table that was much bigger with a sliding table. Worth it for the space savings, to me.
Mounting it just involved match drilling holes in the tablesaw top. With the legs it's well supported.
John took the exact words right out of my mouth.