Router use, tables, accessories?

[Tom Bender]

A dust mask or respirator should be at the top of your list. Finding the right one is a journey so start soon.

[Andy D Jones]

Regarding the fixed vs plunge base, I have found I am much more confident using the fixed base while hand-holding the router, if I do not require a plunging cut. The reason is that the handles of the fixed base are lower and closer to the work piece, making handling seem more secure and stable to me.

For plunge cutting, there is no safe alternative to a plunge base, but I only use my plunge base when I need a plunging cut.

Therefore, I would purchase an additional base for the table, or a lift if you can afford it.

I have a Rockler Bench Dog cast iron router table/extension on the left end of my Unisaw, and like it there a lot. You can mount your router in the far end of the right extension table, which will also work.

I also use an Incra Mast-R-Lift-II-R with the table, which I highly recommend. I would shy away from using the rip fence for, or to hold, the router table fence, since if you need the saw for ripping, that wipes out your fence setting for the router. Not that I've ever had to rip another blank after I screwed one up on the router table...

The advantage of a router table in a table saw extension is that it consumes less shop floor space than a separate TS and router table. The disadvantage is that the two machines can interfere with each other, especially if you do not plan ahead carefully, and sometimes, even in spite of careful planning.

-- Andy - Arlington TX

[Alan Schwabacher]

My first router was a 1617 with the fixed base in a table made from 1/2" MDF with 3" ribs to stiffen the top. A 2' square top will do. Yes, a thinner router plate made of a stronger material is helpful to give more depth of cut, but you should be able to get the router into use quickly. Don't bother with T-track or miter slots on your first one. They can be handy, but are not needed. Push things along the fence instead of using miter slots. Make a simple fence with an L-shaped cross section and triangular braces. It can be clamped to the table in two orientations to vary the height. Close off the space between two fence braces and cut a hole to fit your vacuum hose. You will want at least that for DC.

Drop the router out of the base for access to put in bits. The fine adjust will let you set the bit height to precision that is quite good.

If you have not used a router before, I think you would be well served to make and use such a simple table for a while before deciding whether to make or buy a more elaborate one.

[Michael J Evans]

A dust mask or respirator should be at the top of your list. Finding the right one is a journey so start soon.

Yes I am realizing this more and more, now that I have more machinery than just my table saw. I got a little 3/4 jet dust collector on the cheap when I bought my cabinet saw. But that isn't even enough. Starting to look at the 2hp units and like you said respirator. I honestly haven't used my ROS in a few years and now am doing a project that is going to need a slot of sanding. Tried doing some tonight and had to quit after a couple of minutes, the whole garage was hazy from all the fine dust.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Routers grow on you.
I started with a Craftsman 1.5hp I bought close to 40 years ago.
I used that thing exactly once. I still have it in the garage.

I'm up to 8 routers now.

The things are like .22 pistols. There's always one that looks like it's something you can find a use for.