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Thread: WorkMate Rehab

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    twomiles from the "peak of Ohio
    Posts
    12,120

    WorkMate Rehab

    It was about time....was getting a bit ragged around the edges...
    Shed floor, new rake.JPG
    Removed what was left of the old top....was burning trash, anyway..
    WorkMate Rehab, old top.JPG
    Now, as part of the shed build...I had a couple 2 x 6s and a pair of 2 x 2s...decided to recycle them into a new top..
    WorkMate Rehab, new jaws.JPG
    The 2x2s needed 1/4" peeled off one edge (Tablesaw did that) so they would fit between the frame and the top....boards were all different lengths..

    We have ways..
    WorkMate Rehab, Disston Cross cut saw.JPG
    Disston D-112, 26", 7ppi Cross cut.....a lot lighter, and quieter than hauling a circular saw and a cord out to the site....Framing square to mark the cut lines, 4" beyond the mounting brackets, in case I should need to use clamps....
    WorkMate Rehab, end trimmed.JPG
    Getting my Cardio Workout, today..
    WorkMate Rehab, rehab completed.JPG

    Looks a little better? Haven't decided on drilling any dog holes, yet....

    Ready to work a few more years?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Elyria, Ohio
    Posts
    45
    Looks good, Steven. I have a very similar one, a B&D Portamate, which I'm told as a Canadian version. It has a 120 volt outlet on one side. One of the locking latches for the legs is broken, and I'm having a devil of a time finding a replacement. It's still usable, though.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    twomiles from the "peak of Ohio
    Posts
    12,120
    Lumber is Pressure Treated Pine.....all 4 pieces were leftovers, and on hand. 2 x 6s were cutoffs from done the foundation for the shed. The 2 x 2s were leftover handrail posts from building the front porch deck...The Work Mate is to be the "Outside Workbench" and will stay outside. I figured the PT Pine would hold up a little better than the OEM Plywood...I'll park this bench in the shed....as there is no room in my shop, for it.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    twomiles from the "peak of Ohio
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    12,120
    Hmmm, wonder IF I'll need to flatten the top of this bench? Would I need to check it for "wind"? Maybe take a plane and round over the sawn ends? Not sure what is the "approved finish" for this sort of bench...and, should I line the "chops" with anything.....

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Edmond, Oklahoma
    Posts
    1,749
    Steven,

    The new top looks good, and i think for woodworking it is probably better than the original, once you get the holes for clamping drilled.

    As far as finish goes, I have found that polyurethane is a really tough finish. Since it won't be out in the sun much, the Poly should do well. I also have found that paint holds up better where the sun can get to stuff, over long periods of time, than does the best weather resistant finish, which is spar.

    Stew

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Eastern TN
    Posts
    262
    I have the same issue and I've searched high and low for replacements but without success. I picked up a very old one at a estate sale and it has metal locking tabs and not the plastic ones. I replaced the wood portions using MDO which stands up well to abuse. I use mine as a dedicated work table for various duties including sharpening.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    South West Ontario
    Posts
    1,502
    That’s one of the originals with cast aluminium before they went all steel. The clamping edges were coved in the middle if I remember correctly. You can make it better than the original. Wood, paint, varnish, hickory pegs etc.
    ​You can do a lot with very little! You can do a little more with a lot!

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