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Thread: Squaring Boards by Hand

  1. #16
    I use a mix mash of Cosman and Charlesworth's fancy bench approach, paired with using the cap iron correctly
    means only one planing stop/beam needed, i.e no need for rotating stock.

    Fancy, as in to be able to trust the bench, and use a variety of techniques.
    Some of these might include...
    What one could call candeling, using a good lamp with a decent diameter shade, something like 7.5" or 8"
    A good angle poise is really nice if you can find them, Cosman seems to have no bother getting new ones across the pond.
    I'd say its as close to an essential tool as you can find, took me a long time to find some
    Great for shining light to see where the timber is sitting.
    .Attachment 455472


    Rocking is another good technique to use if you have a reference, the corners that knock will be the low points, so the opposite corners are high spots.

    Pivoting the work from an end, to see where the timber will pivot from, if there's a lengthwise convex bow, the timber will spin about from the middle, and if there's a hollow
    the other end will stay stationary
    I use a mix mash of Cosman and Charlesworth's fancy bench approach, paired with using the cap iron correctly
    means only one planing stop/beam needed, i.e no need for rotating stock.

    And lastly rubbing the timber on the bench is another technique you can use, the high spots will get burnished.
    I sometimes use a crayon if something needs to be very accurate.

    A word of warning about trusting your bench though...
    If you are referring to the bench when planing longer stock, then make sure that the tool that you have used to check the bench
    is as long as the longest thing you ever plan on planing.
    One can end up wasting a lot of material off the ends if a shorter than the work straight edge is used.

    Here's a pair of straight and flat lengths of timber, which are also perfectly parallel
    These sit together with no light showing, and one can be flipped over to make sure an error isn't getting hidden..
    What one could call spoon factor
    The two lengths of timber when paired will double the error of the bench.



    BENCH CHECK.JPG

    For precision jigs, or if one can just not get the hang of planing, then this technique might also be used to great effect.
    Black crayon works the best.
    Probably as much concern as candle wax, if worried about mess, and comes off very quickly, so much so, that to really use it all the time, wouldn't make sense.
    Great for teaching one the meaning of a high spot, and how deep a slightly protruding iron will cut.
    Get a good lamp and don't rely on this technique for more than a lesson.
    DSCN1992.jpg

    Tom

  2. #17
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    I won't add my process to the mix since its sounds like its a combination of the tips others have already given. And I wouldn't consider myself an expert by any stretch of the imagination anyway.

    I would just say that while striving for perfection is good to do, its not required for every single board in order to get tight joints. If you are using your table saw to check, you can shim it (paper, shavings, feeler gauges, whatever) until it stops rocking to get an idea on how far out the board is. Then think about it fits into the project and how a small error might show up or not. More often than not, a very small amount of rocking won't make any difference at the end. Being consistent measuring off of reference faces/edges and how you transfer measurements is much more important in my experience.

    The other point that may already be obvious (it wasn't for me at first), but just in case: Don't try to perfectly dimension a board until its been cut down to close to its final size. An 1/16" of cup across a board becomes 1/32" if you are planning on ripping it in half anyway.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Mickley View Post

    You want to be constantly consulting your straightedge and winding sticks, so that you don't take off stuff where the board is already low. You don't want to do any cross grain planing unless the board is really bad, and then only in the worst corners, etc, not everywhere on the board.
    This.

    Always do the least amount you can do when working by hand.

    Somebody else mentioned that doing all the prep by hand will re-enforce lessons in stock selection too. Pick better stock and you will have less to do.

    Finally, learn the difference between "flat" and "smooth" so as to not overwork a non-show face.
    Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.

  4. #19
    Tom, normally I wouldn't think I have much to add to the wealth of knowledge already given, but perhaps as a newbie my perspective might be helpful? anyway take it for what it is - the blind leading the blind.

    my questions are what do you have for work? I use a No.8, a No. 4 and a machinist right angle to test for square. I thought I was getting OK results until I tried to laminate two boards together, than I realized how much I suck.

    I bought a 50" straight edge. I can't tell you how much of a difference that made. Half an hour of work on isolated areas of the board (high spots where the straight edge could pivot) and the boards are finally approaching flat.

    there is definitely a learning curve to this hobby, but I think a good long straight edge, a machinist square, and a decent triplane can take you pretty far. Made a world of difference for me

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Assaf Oppenheimer View Post
    Tom, normally I wouldn't think I have much to add to the wealth of knowledge already given, but perhaps as a newbie my perspective might be helpful? anyway take it for what it is - the blind leading the blind.

    my questions are what do you have for work? I use a No.8, a No. 4 and a machinist right angle to test for square. I thought I was getting OK results until I tried to laminate two boards together, than I realized how much I suck.

    I bought a 50" straight edge. I can't tell you how much of a difference that made. Half an hour of work on isolated areas of the board (high spots where the straight edge could pivot) and the boards are finally approaching flat.

    there is definitely a learning curve to this hobby, but I think a good long straight edge, a machinist square, and a decent triplane can take you pretty far. Made a world of difference for me
    For flattening I have a No 4 Stanley, a Stanley Jack plane from the 70s (maybe a no 5, not sure), and a Record Jointer plane that is probably a No 7. The straightedge that I have been using is a metal yard stick. It seems to be straight when I reference it against my table saw top. Are there other options for straight edges that might be better for flattening stock?

  6. #21
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    The plane Truth.

    A few things;

    Before you can plane wood flat….You first have to understand the nature of wood.

    Wood is flexible. if the wood you are using is thick and strong it may not flex when you push the plane across it, it is thin it may flex a lot. Wood can also move when you plane it due to internal stress, so wood needs to be stable to start with, or you are going to be chasing your tail. If you are doing a large table top, then it is especially important to make sure that it is properly supported without creating any distortion to it.
    Once you determine that then you proceed to shimming the wood to support it from flexing if need be, or at least from rocking.

    Next is to understand the nature of flat.

    Two points; A straight line is the shortest distance between two points.
    Three points; Flat is the plane formed by three non-colinear points. Connect those three points with straight lines and you have a flat plane.
    Five points; Are used to define a flat rectangle. The four corners and the centre.

    Now take your winding sticks….. throw them away…. and get yourself a good straight edge!

    With your straightedge check, across the grain, lengthways with the grain and across the diagonals.
    The diagonals will tell you if your board is twisted….. where and by precisely how much.
    You may find that using shims on a large surface like a table top may help; Put a penny or a dime on each of the four corners and one in the centre, lay your straightedge across the diagonals, if your board is flat, the straightedge will touch all three points across both diagonals.
    If it rocks, the middle is high.
    If it doesn’t touch the center; the corners are high.
    Plane down to the lowest point, even amounts from each corner, if they are high.
    Constantly check both diagonals! To end up flat, the straightedge must touch all three points across both diagonals. The five points define the flat plane and everything must be faired in to those points, check with your straightedge across and lengthways and plane down all of the high spots. If you have spots that are lower then your five reference spots, then you must lower you five reference spots.
    After some practice you will learn to read it and do it quicker.


    Once you wrap your head around what you are attempting to do and get some practice, it will become second nature to you and you will remove the minimum amount of wood from the right place to get to your goal.

    SAM_1287.jpg

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Hennebury View Post
    The plane Truth.

    A few things;

    Before you can plane wood flat….You first have to understand the nature of wood.

    Wood is flexible. if the wood you are using is thick and strong it may not flex when you push the plane across it, it is thin it may flex a lot. Wood can also move when you plane it due to internal stress, so wood needs to be stable to start with, or you are going to be chasing your tail. If you are doing a large table top, then it is especially important to make sure that it is properly supported without creating any distortion to it.
    Once you determine that then you proceed to shimming the wood to support it from flexing if need be, or at least from rocking.

    Next is to understand the nature of flat.

    Two points; A straight line is the shortest distance between two points.
    Three points; Flat is the plane formed by three non-colinear points. Connect those three points with straight lines and you have a flat plane.
    Five points; Are used to define a flat rectangle. The four corners and the centre.

    Now take your winding sticks….. throw them away…. and get yourself a good straight edge!

    With your straightedge check, across the grain, lengthways with the grain and across the diagonals.
    The diagonals will tell you if your board is twisted….. where and by precisely how much.
    You may find that using shims on a large surface like a table top may help; Put a penny or a dime on each of the four corners and one in the centre, lay your straightedge across the diagonals, if your board is flat, the straightedge will touch all three points across both diagonals.
    If it rocks, the middle is high.
    If it doesn’t touch the center; the corners are high.
    Plane down to the lowest point, even amounts from each corner, if they are high.
    Constantly check both diagonals! To end up flat, the straightedge must touch all three points across both diagonals. The five points define the flat plane and everything must be faired in to those points, check with your straightedge across and lengthways and plane down all of the high spots. If you have spots that are lower then your five reference spots, then you must lower you five reference spots.
    After some practice you will learn to read it and do it quicker.


    Once you wrap your head around what you are attempting to do and get some practice, it will become second nature to you and you will remove the minimum amount of wood from the right place to get to your goal.

    SAM_1287.jpg
    Thanks. So you don't use winding sticks at all? Also, what would you consider a good straightedge? I found this one from Taylor Tools (https://taytools.com/products/anodiz...18275208331315) that seemed to be reasonably priced.

  8. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Mayock View Post
    Thanks. So you don't use winding sticks at all? Also, what would you consider a good straightedge? I found this one from Taylor Tools (https://taytools.com/products/anodiz...18275208331315) that seemed to be reasonably priced.
    I got one from Amazon that looks exactly the same. It's the 24" version, and I'm pretty sure it's flat to within 0.001" over its length. I'm very glad I got it.

  9. #24
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    Inkerman, Ontario, Canada
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    Everyone has their own way of doing things, I don't generally use winding sticks, that's just my preference. Having a few options gives you food for thought. The best advice that I can give you is to seek to understand the basics, understand the relationships then you will find what works for you. Don't copy, don't do stuff because someone tells you or shows you, do it because you understand it.
    Don't trust anyone, least of all yourself, check and verify.
    Don't trust tools, check and verify them.
    When you understand the relationships you can check and verify most things quite easily, without any expensive metrology tools.
    It's nice to have a good reference straightedge if you can afford it, you can buy a straightedge, cheap or expensive, or you can make one out of MDF, and for most purposes it will get you where you need to go. Either way check them, regularly. Its all about how accurate you need to get and balanced against the material and job.
    For instance if you made a 10' x 4' dining table with four legs and planed it flat to within 0.001" using a $20,000 camelback straight edge, when you move the table to a different spot on the floor it will no longer be flat, unless your floor is as flat as the original position.
    Even reference surface plates have to be of a certain thickness to width and length to be stable, and then they are supported on magical three points so not to distort them.
    Flat, straight, square, parallel ....Referencing is fascinating, and the basis for everything that you do in the workshop, it makes everything fit, it makes everything easy, it makes working fun.




    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Mayock View Post
    Thanks. So you don't use winding sticks at all? Also, what would you consider a good straightedge? I found this one from Taylor Tools (https://taytools.com/products/anodiz...18275208331315) that seemed to be reasonably priced.

  10. #25
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    Might look at a couple videos by Paul Sellers....since he does this sort of thing...a lot...

    Reference Straightedge? Go out and buy a good 48" level....and use that for your straight edge.....

  11. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Hennebury View Post
    The plane Truth.

    Now take your winding sticks….. throw them away…. and get yourself a good straight edge!

    With your straightedge check, across the grain, lengthways with the grain and across the diagonals.
    The diagonals will tell you if your board is twisted….. where and by precisely how much.
    SAM_1287.jpg
    There is a reason workers in the 17th, 18th and early 19th centuries used winding sticks. They had a lot more experience actually planing wood. Using a straightedge on the diagonals is a very clumsy way to gauge the wind in a board. The winding sticks are often longer than the board is wide, so in addition to gauging wind more directly, they accentuate the error. This is especially true when preparing edges for gluing.

  12. #27
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    Hey Warren,

    How are you doing, well, I hope.

    There is a reason that people worked by candle light in the 17th century as well, not sure what that has to do with the price of Tea in China though.
    I am not a historian So a little clarification if you please; what has the way things were done in the dark ages got to do with the age on infinite knowledge and technological marvels in which we all currently reside?

    "They had a lot more experience actually planing wood. " Than Who? and why would that matter to our discussion?

    "so in addition to gauging wind" How exactly do winding sticks gauge anything? You put one on one end of a table top and one on the other and you focus on which one? If you focus on the near one, the far one is out of focus, and visa versa. So you make a guess. To what degree of accuracy do you guess to?

    With a straight edge you can obtain an accurate measurement with a feeler gauge to 0.001" if you so wish. No guesswork involved.

    Edges for gluing are a different kettle of fish; I have done a few myself in the past 50 odd years, never used winding sticks and never will. Put one board on top of the other, check it with a straight edge ( the edge of your plane works fine) move the top board from one end then the other, it will pivot on the high spots, plane down the high spots, not difficult, and with a fine shaving extremely precise.

    I you like winding sticks that's fine, but if you want to say that they are better, then supply some evidence to back it up or at least a good argument to support your statement, because i don't care what way it was done 300 years ago. Or if they did more shavings than someone else. I care about doing things the best and most efficient way. How, where, why or when that came from is of no consequence, only whether or not it works.

    If you take a 4' x 8' precision granite surface plate, and place a precision camelback straight edge across the diagonals it will touch all the way across, if you put a 0.001" shim under the corners, you will be able to fit a 0.001" shim in the middle. any deviation would be measurable.





    Quote Originally Posted by Warren Mickley View Post
    There is a reason workers in the 17th, 18th and early 19th centuries used winding sticks. Using a straightedge on the diagonals is a very clumsy way to gauge the wind in a board. The winding sticks are often longer than the board is wide, so in addition to gauging wind more directly, they accentuate the error. This is especially true when preparing edges for gluing.

  13. #28
    If you don't understand the few arguments I gave, there is no point in supplying more.

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Hennebury View Post
    "so in addition to gauging wind" How exactly do winding sticks gauge anything? You put one on one end of a table top and one on the other and you focus on which one? If you focus on the near one, the far one is out of focus, and visa versa. So you make a guess. To what degree of accuracy do you guess to?

    With a straight edge you can obtain an accurate measurement with a feeler gauge to 0.001" if you so wish. No guesswork involved.
    It does not matter which one you focus on, there is no front or back to a flat surface.

    What is the point of getting a 0.001" accuracy on a slab of wood? What woodworker works by specifying mils in their measurements?

  15. #30
    I got the 50” one from Taylor tools. It’s a game changer for me. Also, a good straight edge sent just something straight. It needs to be thin enough to allow light to pass through, and light enough not to flex the wood. I was trying to use my no. 8 but it was too massive and wouldn’t let enough light through. I am very happy with the tay tools straight edge.

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