Worth having a table saw?

[Steven Mikes]

So far the only machines I have are an 18in band saw and a thickness planer. Have been getting by fine so far doing everything else by hand.
I have some long (>2ft) sliding dovetail sockets to cut now though, and can't stop thinking about what a pain it would be to do by hand, and how easy it would be with a table saw.
Some other things might be much easier too, like I could probably cut rabbets for picture frames in a fraction of the time it takes to do by hand.
I was thinking one of those folding ones so it could be stored without taking too much space. What's the general consensus on these things, or is there one?
Thanks!

[Joe A Faulkner]

There are a lot of regulars here who are hybrid wood workers using both powers and non-power. Some of us, like me, were slow to embrace hand tools. We started off as power tool wood workers. While I have a strong interest in all thing Neanderthal, I routinely use the table saw, SCM, band saw, drill press and planer. On the other hand, this past week I used a hatchet, froe, wedges and a sledge to split and rive wood from a log, and this morning I used handsaws and chisels to work on pieces for a bodger’s bench. All so I can do more handtool work with draw knives and spoke shaves. There are some here who have transitioned to mostly hand tools from power tools and given up on the table saw because of the noise, risk and fine dust. It boils down to a personal preference and what tools you want to use for the job at hand. I often use sheet goods, so a power tool, table saw or track saw is my preference for working with that material. What you make and what material you use may influence your decision.

[Michael J Evans]

I started with a miter and table saw. I could do without the miter but not the table saw.

In your case you've been able to make do without so maybe you don't need one. But I would never give mine up. Being able to very quickly and accurately rip a piece is invaluable to me. I get what I consider glue ready joints right off of it (when the fence stays aligned).

I recently got a bandsaw and was so excited thinking it could replace the table saw. But IMO no not even close, the edges off the bandsaw are wayy more rough and not nearly as precise. But if space was the huge concern I see how one could get by with just the bandsaw (could be my setup as well).

I just see the table saw as a really valuable tool. It allows so many operations so accurately and quickly.

[Jim Matthews]

This is a trivial task for a track saw, router or miterbox (hand)saw. If you're making lots of frames or cabinets, a tablesaw is helpful. I make mine (in either hardwood or plywood) with a Japanese pull saw to define the sidewalls. A trim router hogs out most of the waste and a hand router gets the rest.

Otherwise it's an expensive, ungainly and dangerous tool.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furnitu...lsByHand1.html

[chris carter]

I was thinking one of those folding ones so it could be stored without taking too much space.

Those folding contractor table saws are not very accurate. I think that would be the biggest challenge.

I have a contractor saw on a stand (WAY more stable than the folding ones). I use it very rarely - it gets tucked away near the utilities in a separate room in the basement. I only use it maybe a couple times a year and typically when I have a lot of rip cuts to do on thick lumber. I never ever use it for any kind of joinery because it's just not accurate enough (plus, I just dislike power tools). Maybe you could make it work for sliding dovetails, but I really don't think the speed savings is worth it for rabbets unless you need to make a LOT of rabbets.

[Frederick Skelly]

Nothing wrong with a tablesaw. It will do a lot of things.
I use a "tailed" router to cut sliding dovetails, and you could also use it for rabbets.

I think you should look at Derek's website, before you decide to buy. I see Jim already linked to it.

And remember: if you want a tablesaw, get one regardless of our opinions. Everyone works differently.

[lowell holmes]

I have a 10" table saw with attached saw table. I have a router attachment in the extended table.

[Mark Rainey]

In Neanderthal land, a power tool gained is a hand tool lost. Most of us try to reach a balance that is unique to the individual.

[michael langman]

I own a rockwell 9" builders table saw. It uses less space then a 10" contractor saw and with the 1hp motor will do accurate joinery work and ripping up to 2 3/4".

You can buy freud blades for them and they come up on craigslist now and then.

[Ed Mitchell]

I agree with Jim -- it's a trivial task for a track saw, router, etc, etc, etc. All tools which cost less and take up far less space than even a jobsite tablesaw.

Nothing evil about a tablesaw, if you want one, get one. But if there's any value calculus going on, I'd say a tablesaw is not the best value for a couple of long sliding dovetails. Probably a router which can ride in a track is the best value. Cut 90+% of the sliding dovetail with a straight bit, then switch to a dovetail bit and you're GTG. You might already own a router, if not, a great one is a couple hundred dollars. Put the router in a cabinet when you're done, hang the track on the wall or behind a door, and you've used zero floor space (which tends to be the most critical resource in a small shop) and depending on which jobsite saw, a lot less money (which tends to be another critical resource).

OP also mentioned rabbets, another thing that's trivially easy for a router to do. Bearing-guided rabbeting bits are easy, accurate, offer a range of rabbet sizes (often including flush trim, a super-useful thing to have around) and leave a more perfect surface than any dado blade I've used.

[William Fretwell]

Your aim to do highly accurate work with a modest table saw will be disappointing. The fence will not be rock solid or square and yes it will move. A top of the line saw will have the weight, accuracy, bearings and no vibration for the work you want to do. Not a waste of money. You spend a lot on good blades for accurate work so you need something worthwhile.
Accurately ripped stock for your hand tool project is a huge time saver. How much stock you think you will rip for your projects will determine if the expense is worthwhile. The old INCA table saws were modest footprint and accurate. If you plan on using 4x8 sheet goods then a large saw with take off and feed table is required.

[Winston Chang]

I have one of the best folding jobsite saws (a SawStop) and I agree with what the other have said about these saws not being accurate enough for joinery. Actually, I should qualify that a bit. I built a very accurate crosscut sled, and when I use the sled, it's accurate enough for joinery. But without the sled, there are too many sources of inaccuracy for joinery.

The table saw is invaluable for ripping, and with the sled, I can quickly make cross cuts that are dead-on and don't require any touching with a shooting board. That's a big time saver.

I think a trim router would be better than a table saw for sliding dovetails. In fact, I happened to make some slots for sliding dovetails last night using a router.

I used a straight piece of wood as a guide along the length of the slot, but for the length I just freehanded it.

IMG_6481.jpg

Then I squared off the end with a chisel.

IMG_6498.jpg

In this particular case, I wouldn't have been able to use a table saw anyway because the slot doesn't go all the way through.

[Tom Bussey]

This is a reply to a to a post about a table saw (Otherwise it's an expensive, ungainly and dangerous tool) One can get sent to the emergence room just as fast being cut to the bone from a sharp chisel as a table saw and I will wager that more have had accidents from a chisel, than a table saws. A router has been mentioned several times as a way of doing work that could be done on a table saw and I say that there is no protection for the body from a hand held router bit if it swings against the body after the cut is completed, And if one is honest about the router you know exactly what I am talking about, not to mention an exposed router bit in a router table. Just like a table saw blade, the router bit can't be protected 100 per cent of the time.

I realize that this is the Neanderthal forum and is mostly about hand tool woodworking but things pop up a lot of the time like this question. But I can not but believe that the old time woodworkers of the 17th century wouldn't have used a table saw, jointer, or a planner, to name a few, it they would have been available at that time.

And lastly more people die in automobile accidents every year that from table saw accidents, no body considers them to be dangerous and not to be used. If considered Neanderthals, shouldn't we remain with covered wagons?

Yes, there are a lot of cheap folding table saw out there,. I had one that I was afraid to use. Having said that there are also a few folding job sight saws out there that are good saws. And they have adequate fences if one takes the time to lock them down correctly they will function very well.

Todays wood workers are a mixture of power and hand tool wood workers. I know I am. So to the one that originally posted the question about getting a table saw I say it is your decision and yours alone. If it is to be a folding job sight table saw, spend the money the best way you can and buy the best you can. Actually I would get the best your space will allow.

[Prashun Patel]

Consider a trim router. These tools work well as complements to hand tool work. They are great for sliding dovetails, hogging out waste between dovetail sockets, and rabbeting or edge making.

They’re cheap, and can always be placed in a table if you so choose. They can also just be used to do some of the daunting tasks you speak of.

[Jim Matthews]

And lastly more people die in automobile accidents every year that from table saw accidents, no body considers them to be dangerous and not to be used. If considered Neanderthals, shouldn't we remain with covered wagons?

Comparing automobile accidents to any other risky activity should at least consider the millions of operator hours behind the wheel every year. People drive mainly because there are no viable alternatives.

Clearly, alternatives to tablesaws are many and at considerably lower cost.

https://www.statista.com/statistics/...lade-injuries/

https://www.wwgoa.com/article/shop-a...rking-safety/#

Perhaps you were unaware of the risks.