Butcher's Wax on machinery tables - questions

[Jon Endres]

I have an old can - 25-30 years old - of White Diamond Butcher's Paste Wax. Old enough that it's changed names and companies. The wax in the can is hard and breaks into chunks, very difficult to apply. Once upon a time it was much softer and easily applied but it's dried out and most of the solvents are gone. The can says cleanup is with turpentine or mineral spirits. I'm thinking that if I add a small amount of solvent, I can soften the wax back up and make it easier to use. Alternately, I could try to melt it in the can with a heat gun, very gently. Which do you suggest I try?

Also, when I do manage to get a coat on the metal, it's nearly impossible to buff out because it's so sticky. I have just been using an old t-shirt and hand pressure, but it's not working great. My concern is that if I buff it out mechanically, there are a couple machines such as my planer bed, I cant get a mechanical buffer in there so it will have to be done by hand. Any ideas?

Finally I am wondering if I should just skip the wax and continue using Boeshield T9, which I started using many years ago instead of the wax. Seems to work OK for the short term but wears off very quickly. It's slick but short-lived.

It's been so many years since I actually waxed machinery tables, I forgot what to do.

[Bob Jones 5443]

I agree about Boeshield wearing out. I like simple paste wax. A can of new, fresh wax won't set you back much. That old can sounds like it's ready for the pile.

[Lee Schierer]

I use Johnson paste floor wax. In fact, I just waxed my saw table today. I apply the wax with a 0000 pad of steel wool, which also helps to remove any glue. As soon as I coat the table surface I buff it off with an old tee shirt. If you wait until it dries it gets really hard to buff it off. Sometimes doing a second coat makes it slide better, but that also gets buffed off immediately.

[John TenEyck]

I like Lundmark Carnauba paste wax. https://www.amazon.com/Lundmark-Wax-...s%2C192&sr=8-3

Easy on, easy off, works great on my machines. Actually, I don't even wipe it off. I just apply it and go back to work without delay. I've never had a problem with it contaminating the wood. It doesn't last forever, but it's so easy to apply that I'm OK with that.

John

[David Zaret]

on john's suggestion, i bought a can of the Lundmark and have been using it on the machines. it's fantastic! i don't remove it, just wipe on a thin coat and leave it, it stays slick for a long time, but not at all sticky. i'm a huge convert, thanks john.

-- dz

[Myk Rian]

Paste wax, then I use a heat gun to melt it into the surface. Buff it up, and done.

[Bill Dufour]

If needed heat it in a double boiler so it does not catch on fire. I would add solvent and close the lid. If it is too much, after a week or so to soak in, leave the lid off for while so it evaporates.

[Jon Endres]

I was able to heat up the wax in the can with a heat gun set very low, took a while and released a lot of fumes/odor of turpentine, but it is much better behaved now. Still tough to buff out, I may add some more solvent to soften it up a little bit. A new can of wax is on the radar. I may try the Lundmark product.

[Randall J Cox]

I use Johnson paste floor wax. In fact, I just waxed my saw table today. I apply the wax with a 0000 pad of steel wool, which also helps to remove any glue. As soon as I coat the table surface I buff it off with an old tee shirt. If you wait until it dries it gets really hard to buff it off. Sometimes doing a second coat makes it slide better, but that also gets buffed off immediately.

Same here. Been using Johnson paste floor wax on cast iron for over 40 years now. Of course low humidity in central Calif. helps a lot. Randy

[Mike Stelts]

I do the same as Lee and Randy. I dehumidify the PA shop. There was an unforgettable Spring rust event to use as reference, anytime I think the dehumidifier uses too much electricity.