Unisaw Belts and Power Cord

[Karl Wicklund]

I've just taken ownership of a mid 60's Unisaw. 220V, 1.5 HP. 20 amp circuit.

Question One: It takes three matched v-belts. What is your preferred supplier for this?
I've heard many opinions from "you don't need matched belts," to "you will never be happy without matched belts" to "you only need one belt." I'm going with the three matched belts, as the manual suggests.

Question Two: The power cord seems in good shape, but the plug was damaged. I'd like to replace the whole thing, including the switch, to use a bump paddle OFF switch. Would you suggest searching out a specifically made power cord, or getting a 12 ga extension could and chopping the ends off?

Thanks!

[Matt Day]

Gayes AX belts.

If the cord is good, why not just replace the plug? If you replace the cord, make sure it’s rated for the amperage of the motor.

[brian cammarata]

I just re-did mine this weekend.... 1973 model 34-450 3 HP 220V 3450 rpm

I went to Grainger and picked up (3) Dayton 4L-260 belts for less than $20.

Encouragement came from a great new channel to follow that had concise steps, process and information (all in one spot) for general Unisaw refurbishment

no affiliation with the channel, just found it extremely helpful when I tore mine apart

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNaT...y9YqYDhGf3VnFy

[Andrew Seemann]

If you do replace the cord either an extension cord or standard SJO will work, sometimes there is a good cost savings either way. I have both on my machines. My has Unisaw heavy SJO because the cord lays on the floor across an area where I walk.

For a 1.5HP 240V motor you probably could get away with 16ga since the amp draw is pretty low. I'd probably do 14 or 12 though primarily for durability and general stoutness.

If you put in a new switch, I'd recommend a magnetic motor starter. Grizzly is probably the easiest place to get them. You just match your voltage, horsepower, and phase

[Karl Wicklund]

Brian, thanks for the youtube link - I'll check it out.

Andrew, thanks for the Grizzly switch recommendation. That's the kind of thing I'm looking for. Also, SJO is a good idea.

Matt, I'll check out those belts. I'd like to replace the cord because it's a little short for my set up. I think it's had the plug replaced before, too, making a few inches shorter.

[Bill Dufour]

Any good brand motor controller will work fine. check ebay for used.. Get it with adjustable overloads. I prefer 120 volt controls so no transformer needed. It is nice to add an off switch down at foot level front and back.
Bill D.

[Karl Wicklund]

...I prefer 120 volt controls so no transformer needed..

If the motor and the circuit are 240V, is there a need for a transformer? I'm unclear.

[Andrew Seemann]

I think he is referring to relay coils that operate at line voltage vs 24VAC. Those will have a transformer to bring the control circuit voltage down to typically 24VAC. In your case the coil would be 240VAC rather than 120VAC.

24VAC control is commonly used when you want the switch to be remote from the relay coils because it allows you to use low voltage wiring methods. House thermostats are common example of a 24VAC control system.

[Karl Wicklund]

For what it's worth, here's what I ended up doing.

BELTS: I took a chance on some cheap imports, and they seem to be doing the trick so far - tension seems equal across all three. Time may tell a different tale.

SWITCH: I went ahead and replaced the original cord with a 15' length of SJOOW. Most of the switches I found online seemed about the same price and design, so I closed my eyes, pointed and ordered. Like many others, I had to modify the switchbox a little - I put a 1/4" extension on - to accommodate the extra depth. It was a bit of monkey business, but nothing difficult. Works fine, but, again, time will tell.

Thanks for your input.