Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 26

Thread: Options for dust collection pipe in 12” diameter

  1. #1

    Options for dust collection pipe in 12” diameter

    Hey guys, after buying several new machines this year I decided that I needed more room in my shop and that I could reconfigure my dust collection setup to go from 4 dust collectors down to 1 and have it also hit all of my new machines. The dust collector that I decided to keep is a large 10hp bagger style unit with a 12” inlet and multiple 24” x 72” bags. My plan is to put it in the back corner and have it run diagonally across my shop with branches and drops for the machines. The main trunk pine with be 90ft long of 12” duct with several 15ft branch’s and one 20ft branch. It will have about 8 wye’s and 4 or more Tee’s. In total there will be 17 machines + that will be on this trunk line but never more than one machine being used at a time.

    Now I am considering the type of duct that I will go with for the trunk line. Unfortunately no one locally stocks spiral pipe. It would have to be shipped in and the cost to purchase locally would be more than just ordering it from the Blast Gate Company online. I figured up the total cost using spiral pipe and fittings to be about $10,000. I could get just the trunk line in spiral pipe and use snap lock style fittings. 18 pieces of 12” x 5ft spiral pipe is $1,105 shipped to my shop.

    Are there any more budget friendly options? I would like to use something better than snap lock but cheaper than spiral pipe. Is there a way to add a flange onto 12” snap lock so that the pipe and fittings don’t fit inside one another (which is a flow killer and causes clogs) but rather some type of sleeve or coupler that could slid over the ends of the snap lock? What about any bolt together flanges for snap lock HVAC duct?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Millstone, NJ
    Posts
    1,590
    Where are you located?

    You need to look for a sheetmetal supply shop instead of a HVAC supply.

    Im in NJ and got a quote for $53 per 10' of 12"
    Fabricated wyes are very expensive Go with saddle taps they are far cheeper

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Elizabethtown, PA
    Posts
    124
    depending on your location there should be a sheet metal shop (spiral duct) or a fab shop (welded duct). As to your question about flanges on snap lock, you can buy punched angle flanges and put those onto the duct with a van stone (you stick 1/2" of duct past the flange, clamp the ring in several spots and peen the duct over the flange so it's 90 degrees and retains the angle flange). Here is a link for flanges and a machine produced van stone flange, we typically just weld them and face the weld flush when making that style at work. https://www.spiralmfg.com/high-press...rings-flanges/

  4. #4
    George and Ryan make good points. I think the heaviest you could make snap lock would be 22 or 20 ga and it would likely collapse. Angle rings are cheap $20, but that will add up. Spiral will be the cheapest.

    If you haven't done any calculations, you really should. 10 HP is likely too much for the equipment you have and may not be enough for the friction loss in 12" round. The dust needs velocity to stay in the air stream.

    Here's an article from Wood magazine that gives you the jist of it. It may be worth it for you to pay for a drawing from Penn or Oneida.

    https://www.woodmagazine.com/figure-...20below%20them.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Lancaster, Ohio
    Posts
    1,346
    check out pvc, run a ground wire inside the pipe
    Ron

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Ryan Yeaglin View Post
    depending on your location there should be a sheet metal shop (spiral duct) or a fab shop (welded duct). As to your question about flanges on snap lock, you can buy punched angle flanges and put those onto the duct with a van stone (you stick 1/2" of duct past the flange, clamp the ring in several spots and peen the duct over the flange so it's 90 degrees and retains the angle flange). Here is a link for flanges and a machine produced van stone flange, we typically just weld them and face the weld flush when making that style at work. https://www.spiralmfg.com/high-press...rings-flanges/
    I am not following you on these flanges. These appear to be for spiral pipe not traditional snap lock? If these were to be used on snap lock, are you saying that the ends of the snap lock would need to be rolled or flared by some methods and then the flange bolts up to that? Are there no off the shelf bolt together flanges in a 12” size for snap lock? If not, do you know if these would be possible to modify? If so, can you link me?

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by George Yetka View Post
    Where are you located?

    You need to look for a sheetmetal supply shop instead of a HVAC supply.

    Im in NJ and got a quote for $53 per 10' of 12"
    Fabricated wyes are very expensive Go with saddle taps they are far cheeper
    Hey George I will do some google searches to see if I can find a sheet metal shop near by. Thanks.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    23
    Bobby,

    What part of the country are you in? There is a guy in Michigan that has 60ft of new 12" clamp together pipe (Norfab) letting it go for pennies on on the dollar listed on FB marketplace.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    Elizabethtown, PA
    Posts
    124
    Re-read my post, I explain how to put a van stone flange onto duct work. The problem as others have stated is that snap lock isn't made of a gauge thick enough to withstand the water gauge your collector will draw. two reasons I suggested using van stones ( pounding over the duct to form a 1/2" retaining flange) is that you don't have to worry about indexing the holes as the angle flange will be about 1/8" larger ID than the duct and will rotate, they also don't affect airflow as screws or something would.

  10. #10
    Snap lock is only good for -2". If you put angle flanges on it it would raise the static rating, but they are $25 each. We pay about $32 for 12" x 10' 26 ga. Good for about -15". Yes, the vanstone connection has less friction loss and less turbulence. I would use spiral and Lindab fittings.

    When sizing duct, the truck reduces to the next practical size as CFM's are dropped at branches. If you don't reduce the duct size, you'll get the CFMs, but loose the velocity. You need 3500 FPM minimum for the trunk and 4000 FPM minimum for the branchs.

    Do you have 90' between the fan and the first branch? Any elbows? A 1.5 radius, 12", small end 90* is equal to 25' of straight.

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Ryan Yeaglin View Post
    Re-read my post, I explain how to put a van stone flange onto duct work. The problem as others have stated is that snap lock isn't made of a gauge thick enough to withstand the water gauge your collector will draw. two reasons I suggested using van stones ( pounding over the duct to form a 1/2" retaining flange) is that you don't have to worry about indexing the holes as the angle flange will be about 1/8" larger ID than the duct and will rotate, they also don't affect airflow as screws or something would.
    Ok so angle flanges (Van Stones) can be added to snap lock duct, but are you saying that the duct needs to be flared at the end by pounding the Van Stone on to it? Or will the Van Stone flanges just slide right over with a little persuasion from a mallet?

    In the past I have used square plywood braces along the snap lock duct to keep it from imploding. This works great too.

  12. #12
    I checked at my local fab and sheet metal shops. None of them stock or manufacture spiral pipe. Well one of them said that they could make me some spiral pipe and fittings but the price was crazy compared to just ordering from the Blast Gate Company. None of my local HVAC suppliers in south east Missouri or north east Arkansas stock it either.

    I did, however, find a local irrigation company that stocks 12” x 22ft pvc sewer and drain pipe for under $6 per foot. I plan to swing by their place today or tomorrow and try to see if standard HVAC fittings could be made to slip inside the pvc pipe. If so, and if I could figure out a good way to get an air tight fit, this would be a game changer. After tax the pvc is $154 for 22ft. I already have a bunch of standard HVAC fittings so I will give this a try.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,688
    If this is for your own personal shop, the PVC might be a good option for you. But if this is for a commercial shop, it may not be permitted by code/OSHA.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    If this is for your own personal shop, the PVC might be a good option for you. But if this is for a commercial shop, it may not be permitted by code/OSHA.
    Yes this is just my personal shop. I work at a custom residential shop during the day though.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,688
    Quote Originally Posted by Bobby Robbinett View Post
    Yes this is just my personal shop. I work at a custom residential shop during the day though.
    Yes, that's why I mentioned it as I wasn't sure "which" shop for sure. You do like big DC systems for sure!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •