End grain turning

[Tim Elett]

I know you should avoid ,it but I really want to do this project. The out side is no issue its removing the inside ,I am a little intimidated about sticking a 1/2 bowl gouge into end grain because of catches,I was thinking of a forsner bit to get some of the center out ,or is their a better way.The blank is 6 in wide and I want a 5 in hole for a flower pot. Is a large bit available other than a forsner bit.

[John Hart]

I know you should avoid ,it but I really want to do this project. The out side is no issue its removing the inside ,I am a little intimidated about sticking a 1/2 bowl gouge into end grain because of catches,I was thinking of a forsner bit to get some of the center out ,or is their a better way.The blank is 6 in wide and I want a 5 in hole for a flower pot. Is a large bit available other than a forsner bit.

To me, end grain turning and hollowing is the most rewarding. You shouldn't let it intimidate you. Drilling a hole is a great idea, as it helps set your depth and gives a good starting point for your tools, whether a hollowing tool or a bowl gouge. From the drilled hole, just attack from the side and you will be essentially be turning facegrain. Actually kinda fun

[David Walser]

Tim -- Use as large a Forstner bit as you have in your inventory. There's no need to go buy a larger one. After the hole is drilled, use your skew as a negative rake scraper to hollow the rest of the way. To do this, lay the skew flat on your tool rest and use the long-point of the skew to hollow -- increasing the size of the hole left by the Forstner bit by an 1/8" (or so) at a time. Make sure the tool rest height is adjusted so you are cutting at or slightly above center. Let the skew do the cutting. It shouldn't require a lot of pressure. Just take your time. You may need to sharpen your skew a couple of times, but you'll find the skew hollows quickly and easily.

You didn't mention how deep you need to hollow. You should be able to go 4" or 5" deep with a typical skew. As you go deeper, you'll want to take a smaller bite to reduce chatter. If you need to go deeper than you can comfortably with your skew, you may need to use your bowl gouge. It should be able to go a little deeper.

HTH

[Tim Elett]

Thanks I should mention the last time I tried it was on a 1970 craftsman lathe now using a 1424 Laguna, I will post a picture of progress.

[Reed Gray]

End grain is a different type of turning. Most of the time it is used for boxes and hollow forms. When turning the outside, you will want to cut from big/top to the small/bottom. On the inside, it is the other way, cut from the bottom to the top. Drilling into end grain is much slower than drilling into side grain. You can start with a smaller bit and then go up to a larger size. Use slower speeds and a sharp bit. I wouldn't go beyond 500 rpm. Clear frequently. If you have the carbide tools, they would be excellent for this project. If you have any hollow form tools, they are also good for this, and a shape you are trying is good practice for hollow forms because you can see as you cut. You can also turn it down in stages, pulling from the center and going out. This will also give you plenty of room to move the tool rest in so you aren't hanging out a long way off the tool rest. A bigger sized scraper can be great for cleaning up the sides and bottom. I don' use scrapers wider than one inch. Maybe try a small one as a practice piece...

robo hippy

[Thomas Canfield]

A scraper will work well with enlarging the diameter started with a Forstner bit. I use a Thompson 1/2" scraper with half round end to hollow down about 4" for lidded boxes and vases. The flat scraper is easy to go to grinder and renew the edge using the tool rest. Just remember to have the handle higher than the cutting edge and work from small to large diameter, and work down in segments. You reach a point that you get a lot of chatter when you try to go to deep with a scraper exceeding the strength of the bar. I tend to get catches trying to use a bowl gouge to hollow endgrain and go with a scraper or tool designed to hollow.

[tom lucas]

I agree with Thomas. A scraper is great for end grain and by far the fastest at removing a lot of material. I reserve my forstners for when I need specific dimensioned holes. Easier to sharpen a scraper than a forstner. And scrapers have to be touched up often anyway. I have scrapers shaped for curved bottoms and others for square cornered bottoms. A properly shaped "box scraper" will cut down the face of end grain while also cutting the inside wall (face grain). Fast and easy. Just stay above center. And then clean up with a negative rake scraper.

[Dan Gaylin]

Carbide tools work very well for end grain hollowing. Round tool.

[roger wiegand]

I think you might find that a hook tool is much faster than a scraper, if fastest way to remove a lot of material is the goal. They have something of a learning curve.

For things like end grain boxes and bowls I drill a hole with a 3/8" drill hand held in a wooden handle to make a center hole and then hollow with a regular gouge most of the time. It's pretty fast. I don't find it to be worth the time or effort to set up a Forstner drill unless I'm making multiples of something like christmas ornaments and can do a dozen in succession. NRS for a finished surface are great.

Beyond 4-5" deep I'll set up the hollowing rig or use the 3/4" hollowing tool freehand, smoothing with a NRS.