Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 27 of 27

Thread: Water heater anode rod replacement. I know you're supposed to, but do you?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
    Location
    West Central Illinois
    Posts
    196
    It is the rotten egg as noted after your comment. No rod is our way to go.

  2. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce King View Post
    I changed one years ago, took about 150ftlbs of force to loosen it. Then I read that they last the life of the unit in most cases. A poor ground going to the water heater will cause it to self destruct with some water types. Whenever a house is going to be unoccupied for a week or longer it should be turned off or the rotten egg smell will begin.
    Just read up on powered anodes, company called Corro-Protect makes them, Amazon sells them (of course ) - If they work, they're likely worth the $129 they cost (also guaranteed for 20 years)

    Another option is replace your magnesium rod with an aluminum rod. The aluminum doesn't create the smell-producing bacteria when deteriorating that magnesium does (supposedly)... The trade-off -as I understand it- is that aluminum doesn't fully dissolve which means grit buildup in the bottom of the tank.

    But-- Anodes are there to keep the water heater from rusting away. Without some sort of anode to take the brunt of the inevitable corrosion, the water tank corrodes instead. Remove at your own risk
    ========================================
    ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
    FOUR - CO2 lasers
    THREE- make that FOUR now - fiber lasers
    ONE - vinyl cutter
    CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle


  3. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Cambridge Vermont
    Posts
    2,289
    If you like replacing your tank then remove it. The fact is that they work. They are used on ships as well. The ones I deal with at work have a small hole partially drilled in the center and screw into the tank. When they reach end of life they start leaking out the hole. The one on my boiler's domestic water tank at home wasn't grounded correctly and the glazed coating on the inside of the tank eventually started to rust. Since it's after the filter the rust made it's way to every hot water faucet. Eventually the internal pipe carrying the heated water from the boiler rusted causing the house water to over pressurize the boiler. That caused the pressure relief valve to vent every time the well pump turned on. Remove it if you want but understand that you are shortening the life of the tank.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    9,043
    You only need the aluminum ones if your water has Sulfur in it. Here, ours doesn't. Going to try to figure out how to order a couple of segmented magnesium ones today, for our two. Thanks for starting this thread. I hadn't thought about them for years. Ours are in a crawl space, and there is not enough clearance overhead to get a one piece one in either of them. The segmented ones are made for that type of application.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    New York, NY
    Posts
    2,203
    Quote Originally Posted by Alex Zeller View Post
    If you like replacing your tank then remove it. The fact is that they work. They are used on ships as well. The ones I deal with at work have a small hole partially drilled in the center and screw into the tank. When they reach end of life they start leaking out the hole. The one on my boiler's domestic water tank at home wasn't grounded correctly and the glazed coating on the inside of the tank eventually started to rust. Since it's after the filter the rust made it's way to every hot water faucet. Eventually the internal pipe carrying the heated water from the boiler rusted causing the house water to over pressurize the boiler. That caused the pressure relief valve to vent every time the well pump turned on. Remove it if you want but understand that you are shortening the life of the tank.
    Agreed, the rod is there for a reason and the tank will decay rapidly without a magnesium or aluminium one in place. The only way to safely avoid dealing with anode rods is to switch to a tankless water heater.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Millstone, NJ
    Posts
    1,640
    It really depends on you're water. I am on well in a high iron area, we also have Manganese as well as Hydrogen sulfide. I actually replaced my water treatment stuff yesterday for the second time in 5 years.

    My water heater I bought with an electronic anode knowing if I didnt I would be replacing the anode yearly.
    The point of them is to protect the tank of the water heater. The corrosion that happens on them is what would be attacking your tank if they weren't there.

    You can pull it and if it looks good and its been 5 years put it back in and most likely it will outlast the heater. if theres nothing connected, you have corrosive water and the tank wont be lasting that long

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Anaheim, California
    Posts
    6,909
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Koepke View Post
    Hmmmm, been meaning to replace mine for the last decade.

    After reading this, guess it can likely wait another decade.
    What he said. I get about 16-18 years from a water heater, which means the current one has decent odds of outliving me. And getting the old anode out would involve more labor than putting in a new water heater.

    Is this an east coast thing?
    Yoga class makes me feel like a total stud, mostly because I'm about as flexible as a 2x4.
    "Design"? Possibly. "Intelligent"? Sure doesn't look like it from this angle.
    We used to be hunter gatherers. Now we're shopper borrowers.
    The three most important words in the English language: "Front Towards Enemy".
    The world makes a lot more sense when you remember that Butthead was the smart one.
    You can never be too rich, too thin, or have too much ammo.

  8. #23
    Decided that since the anode was less than $20. I'd give it a try. The hardest part was getting the old one out. I had to use a breaker bar with a cheater pipe on the end to get it free. Thought I would post some pics. Here's the new rod and the one that came out. Anode1a.jpgAnode2a.jpg

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Northern California
    Posts
    667
    Quote Originally Posted by Terry Wawro View Post
    Then there are the other things that we might should do, but probably don't. Things like brush after every meal, change our wiper blades regularly, clean your gutters quarterly and replace the anode rod in our hot water heaters.
    I cleaned the gutters twice a year until I decided to invest in and install the gutter guards Costco puts on sale every few months. Cost about $400 to do the whole house, shop and 2 outbuildings. We have clay tile roofs so it was somewhat labor intensive to install, but they work great and I haven’t had to do the odious task since.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Anaheim, California
    Posts
    6,909
    Quote Originally Posted by Terry Wawro View Post
    Decided that since the anode was less than $20. I'd give it a try. The hardest part was getting the old one out. I had to use a breaker bar with a cheater pipe on the end to get it free. Thought I would post some pics. Here's the new rod and the one that came out. Anode1a.jpgAnode2a.jpg
    So it's maybe 1/3 gone after 15 years?

    I don't know what other people consider "lifetime" for a water heater, but I doubt that original anode rod would have been the first thing to fail.
    Yoga class makes me feel like a total stud, mostly because I'm about as flexible as a 2x4.
    "Design"? Possibly. "Intelligent"? Sure doesn't look like it from this angle.
    We used to be hunter gatherers. Now we're shopper borrowers.
    The three most important words in the English language: "Front Towards Enemy".
    The world makes a lot more sense when you remember that Butthead was the smart one.
    You can never be too rich, too thin, or have too much ammo.

  11. #26
    Quote Originally Posted by Lee DeRaud View Post

    Is this an east coast thing?
    Living in suburban Philadelpia, if you consider that east coast, with public water I would say I never knew anyone who changed theirs out. A lot of PA uses well water and there are various water problems out there. I remember in an Architectural Class I had it was discussed, but until this thread I never knew people who changed it out. We seem to get around 15 years from water heaters here. I don't know anyone on the public water system that I am on who have water softeners either although they are fairly common in other parts of PA.

  12. #27
    I pulled the anode out of our at-the-time 20 year old motorhome's water heater. Originally about 8" long, it came out about 3" long and not much thicker than a toothpick... the tank was still in great shape, the anode did it's job
    ========================================
    ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
    FOUR - CO2 lasers
    THREE- make that FOUR now - fiber lasers
    ONE - vinyl cutter
    CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle


Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •