DustVent 5hp 8" main setup outside

[Chris Pyle]

Hi all,

I've recently acquired a used DustVent dust collector. The impeller blades have a slight radius and are about 4.5" wide. The impeller is in the 14-16" range. It has an 8" main and came with some metal piping. I'm just getting my shop set-up in a shared pole barn. I'm wanting to run the dust collector outside and/or vent directly outside. We're looking into shop heating at some point so I want to be certain I understand the real implications of air replacement (first hand experience). Also, any suggestions on how to set up the DC outside? We technically have the room for the DC but I'd love to reclaim the floorspace. I could build a small enclosed pad outdoors but I'm guessing heat could be an issue in the space? Perhaps less headaches to just vent outdoors?

I'm new to dust collectors so any help is appreciated.

DCmotor.jpgDCcyclone.jpgDCpipe.jpg

[Bill Dufour]

location? climate? That will pull many hundereds of cubic feet a minute out of the shop. Maybe as much as 1,000 cubic feet a minute. All heat will be gone in a few minutes unless you filter the return air and return it to the building.
Bill D

[Charlie Jones]

If you are not in the north it will work fine. I just went through the winter in North Carolina. My shop is small and the collector has to run awhile before you notice any difference. I have a 5 Hp with 6” main ducts. The performance is better and you don’t need to clean filters. If you are where the winters are harsh I would suggest you run a wye with filters controlled by a blast gate so you can switch back and forth. If you do that you will need to place the filters inside an enclosure so the air can return inside.

[Kevin Jenness]

If you haven't seen it already, this thread https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....utside-venting may help guide you.

[Chris Pyle]

If you haven't seen it already, this thread https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....utside-venting may help guide you.

Thanks for that, lots of ground already covered.

I'm in Southern Indiana, average temps 30-90 but we can get down to single digits on particularly brutal weeks. How many of you have actually exhausted your DC outdoors and experienced massive temperature swings? The temperature experienced is only partly related to the temperature of the air so in my particular circumstance, I'm leaning towards outdoor venting. I'm also looking into a dehumidifier for the shop. We aren't currently conditioning the space but we may add a heat source down the line. I understand we must prevent backdraft so we need a plan for air replacement if we go in that direction.

[Andrew More]

I have a 1 1/2 HP Grizzly cyclone with 6" inlet. I vent outside, and haven't noticed much difference. It does feel a bit like there's a draft (because there is), but it takes a while to change the temperature. While it's true that the cyclone can remove a volume of air equal to my two car garage in a matter of minutes, that doesn't take into account the thermal mass of all the tools in the building, including a couple thousand pounds of cast iron table tops.

[Kevin Jenness]

Seems to me it depends on how big your space is, what volume your system pulls, how much of the time you run it and what your tolerance is for temperature and humidity variations. Since you don't condition the shop now direct venting may not change the conditions that much. I would expect that dehumidifying the air would be more of an issue than heat loss without recirculation. If keeping a stable temp and RH is important to your business it's going to cost you, one way or another.

I return filtered air to my shop while the cyclone and blower are outside under a roof but otherwise unenclosed, so no worries about heat buildup and any dust issues from emptying the bin are outside the shop space.

You will definitely want to supply air to any combustion heating units in the shop.

[Bobby Robbinett]

I ran a 5HP Grizzly double bagger at my last shop vented outside. It worked excellent and seemed to collect better that way. It was a fairly small shop that had concrete walls and 10ft ceilings. It had a big gas heater hung in the back corner and even on the coldest day of the year I couldn’t stand leaving the heater on that much because it would get unbearably hot. I never noticed much of any heat loss as that heater could keep the shop hot even with the dust collector going.

I now have a much larger shop that is a red iron framed metal building built in the early 1960’s. It has the original insulation which is a little worse for wear. For myself, the cold doesn’t bother me but I am very sensitive to the heat. I have two a/c’s on opposite ends of the building. A 5 ton and a 3 ton. I need to get some new insulation but with the size of my shop it could be $10,000 for fiberglass (if I install it myself) or $17,000+ for 1” of closed cell foam. I would love to vent my now 10hp unit outside but I cant risk loosing that much cool air until I get the shop better insulated.

[eugene thomas]

i live in wisconsin. have 34 by 50 shop with in floor heat. have 3 hp dust collector vented outside. no issue with heatloss.

[Alan Lightstone]

I return filtered air to my shop while the cyclone and blower are outside under a roof but otherwise unenclosed, so no worries about heat buildup and any dust issues from emptying the bin are outside the shop space.

How do you do that? Did you build a filter box? Some other approach?

I once lived near the OP. Knowing the weather, I would think winters could get rough with venting outside without returning the air. Especially with that large a DC and that much heated air leaving the shop.

Is you shop heated? Air conditioned?

[Kevin Jenness]

How do you do that? Did you build a filter box? Some other approach?


Is you shop heated? Air conditioned?

My filter is in a 36" square bumpout hanging off the shop's corner, open to the interior. The cyclone discharge is routed through the wall with a transition made of wood and sheet metal. The shop is heated and cooled with a heat pump and wood stove.

[Chris Pyle]

Thanks everyone, I'm going to put some blocks down and frame a cover for the DC and put it outside and vent out directly. The floorspace recovered by doing it is the primary motivation (and not having to clean filters). As I suspected, most who've done this haven't noticed an extreme change in temperature.

[Chris Pyle]

So I finally built the lean to outside and put the DC under it and placed an order with a local supplier. I told them I was putting together a dust collection system for woodworking and they said they'd done it a number of times and have most of the fittings in stock so I drove down and picked up the components.

When I arrived, they had gasketed fittings which I wasn't expecting after watching Mike Farrington's video on installing dust collection. I was expecting to rivet the entire thing. Without connectors there will be less drag but is there any issues with have the connections gasketed like this? Increase in obstructions?

He told me no connections are needed with this but I purchased some duct sealant anyway, assuming I'll paint it on and follow the belt and suspenders approach.

DC.jpg
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Any input?

[Chris Pyle]

Also, the inlet on the DC is closer to 8 1/4" see the pic for reference, what's the best method for making this connection the 8" pipe?

8%22 connection.jpg

[Phillip Mitchell]

I’m not familiar with that type of pipe/connections so I’ll leave that to someone else, but aside from building up the outside of the smaller diameter pipe going in the inlet with several layers of tape macguyver style you could look for a Fernco fitting with the right dimensions on both ends. Not sure if they have one that is exactly what you have there or not, but they have tons of different adapter fittings that are rubber, somewhat flexible and have clamp rings on both sides often to tighten the fit. Look on their website and then search google for that model # if you find one the right size. I have one on the inlet into my DC going from 6” S&D PVC up to like 7” + on the inlet and it works perfectly.