Unisaw table shimming

[Matt Timbs]

Have an ‘89 unisaw. Last weekend the angle adjustment was stiff and I could t quite get it to 90. Kept hearing a ‘clunk’ (more than once). I thought the worm gear hopped a tooth. When I investigated I found the cast iron front trunnion bracket broken just past the end of the worm gear. (Narrow spot there in the casting).

So that sucks. This was a college’s saw and has had a rough life. Anyway. Ordered a replacement on eBay.

Prior I had shimmed my top and had it dialed in but I’ve constantly had clearance issues when setting the blade to 90. It’s like the top needs to be raised 1/8” all around. Since I’ll have the dang thing torn apart again, can I add a couple washers to all 4 corners then replace my shims o fix my clearance issues?

(By clearance I mean the trunnion hitting the cast webbing structure on the underside of the table.

[Carroll Courtney]

Over the yrs I have gone through about 4 Unisaws and did not had that problem. But each one is little different since using the old cast iron build like a tank method. McMaster Carr sells shim washers, may check them out and not use those stamp washers from hardware store.
But I wonder what is hitting the underside of the table, maybe the tilt shaft is sticking to far up little? Guessing

[Cary Falk]

I used to have a 1970 Unisaw that I restored. It didn't have that issue either. When you replace bracket I would try to correct the problem instead of shimming the top. Shim washers are a good suggestion because if any of the 4 points of the trunnion are off you will have parallel issues when you tilt the blade.

[Matt Day]

I’ve fixed up about 6 Unisaws - never had that issue. Never heard that issue on any of the hundreds I’ve followed on OWWM.
Why do you think it needs to be raised? And why would easing the top 1/8” help a 90 degree blade? Have you set your angle stops on the trunnions?

The arbor pulley does hit the underside of the top on all of them if that’s what you mean.

Confused.

[Matt Timbs]

I could never get it quite to 45. Furthest it’d go was 44.5 or so. The 90 issue was the broken bracket I’m guessing. Part of the initial problem was the bracket for a “disappearing splitter” that hit something.

The “hey man just fix it” suggestion I totally get, but I can’t see what’s going on under there, and if I take the table off, of course the problem goes away.

I’m hoping the bracket break had things out of whack and it’ll be fine now.

[Mike Kees]

Matt I have played and worked on 4-5 Unis. The one I have in my shop has washers from the factory between the metal base/stand and the cast iron top. This saw is the design from late 70's to early 80's before they changed the name back to Delta.

[Matt Timbs]

I bought mine used. My neighbor helped load it and had the table off before I could look for shims so if it had factory shims they’re long gone. I did have to shim it to adjust for 45 rip cuts but I felt like the whole tabletop could come up by 1/8” or even 1/16” (in addition to my shims) to give a little more clearance when trying to get to 45. I dunno.

[Matt Day]

You don’t need shims unless you’re going for dead nuts perfect rips at 45, which I do so little of I don’t really care to fuss about.

Take the top off, see what’s going on under there and see why it’s not going fully to 45. Mine probably goes to 50 or so. I’m guessing it’s the bolt that sets your 45. Super simple, loosen the lock nut and adjust it. These saws are very easy to work on and adjust, but having the table off for a first timer like yourself will allow you to see what’s going on and adjust it.

Take some pictures and explain what you’re talking about. It really makes no sense.

[Matt Timbs]

It’s not the stop bolt.

[Matt Day]

I can’t help you any more without more information. Raising the table makes no sense.