Double sided tape

[kevin nee]

Any suggestions on brand and supplier for double sided tape.
Thanks in advance, Kevin

[Ed Aumiller]

Depending on your use.... the tape from a golf store used to put new grips on clubs works great for me...
It is 5/8" wide and brand is Intertape..

[tom lucas]

Get the double sided turner's tape. It works great and won't fail on you. I think I bought mine at amazon. I think this one is it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Tim Elett]

How well will tape hold,not for turning I assume, sanding I would assume?

[tom lucas]

How well will tape hold,not for turning I assume, sanding I would assume?

Yes for turning. It holds amazingly good. Almost too good sometimes as it can be hard to get the piece off. Best to leave the tape pulled back from the edge so you can get a putty knife under it to pry it loose....very carefully. And don't use too much tape (as me how I know). I use it mainly for platters, rings, frames, and other "flat" pieces. The tape has to be held under pressure for about 5 or 10 minutes before turning. Just use the tail stock or put in a regular vise for a few minutes.

[John K Jordan]

Yes for turning. It holds amazingly good. Almost too good sometimes as it can be hard to get the piece off. Best to leave the tape pulled back from the edge so you can get a putty knife under it to pry it loose....very carefully. And don't use too much tape (as me how I know). I use it mainly for platters, rings, frames, and other "flat" pieces. The tape has to be held under pressure for about 5 or 10 minutes before turning. Just use the tail stock or put in a regular vise for a few minutes.

I use the turner's tape from Woodcraft, mostly to hold the odd thing. A friend turned a number of large bowls (16"-18") by taping blanks to a faceplate. He would put a layer on the faceplate, another layer on the flattened bottom of the blank, burnish the tape before removing the backing, then press the two together in a cross pattern and apply pressure with the tailstock as Tom mentioned. He turned some very heavy and out of balance chunks of wood and never had one come loose even with some aggressive turning. He said the problem was removing it - he injected acetone into the tape from the side with a syringe to help loosen the adhesive.

I have also used the tape on the milling machine to hold metal parts - excellent holding. I discovered there if I drive a thin wedge gently between the pieces the tape would VERY slowly release allowing the wedge(s) to be pushed in further. I do the same thing to remove taped pieces on the wood lathe now.

JKJ

[Tim Elett]

Thanks, I would not have thought it would hold that good.

[Dan Hunkele]

I use turners tape also. The big problem for me is getting the release paper off. I found the solution was a sewing needle mounted in a pin vise. Saved my sanity.

[Brian Tymchak]

Another vote for spectape, which is the same as the turners tape at woodcraft. I use that stuff for everything in the shop - jigs, stops, etc. I can remember it failing only once when I was positioning a toggle clamp on a sled. In hindsight it was pretty dumb of me to expect the tape to hold when I locked the clamp down.

[George Yetka]

I have tried one or 2 but i just picked this up a couple weeks ago and its worked well so far. Its also not that expensive
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Richard Coers]

Quality of tape needed depends on surface area and weight of the blank. I'm a real fan of double backed duct tape for tiny pieces. Polyken 105C is American made and sold on Amazon.

[Dave Mount]

Polyken 105C is American made and sold on Amazon.

Richard, I bought some Polyken tape in response to it being suggested previously (probably by you, I don't remember). However, I bought Polyken NAT125 instead of 105C not knowing I was doing something different. They are both cloth and both appear to have the same blue plastic backing. What I have is very strong tape, but my lord it is a struggle to get the blue backing off. I sometimes spend several minutes getting it off. The blue backing seems to be adhered to the tape about as well as the tape sticks to wood, because I routinely pull the tape off the wood while trying to pick up an edge on the backing. I've tried needles, razors, tweezers. My most (but not very) successful technique is to cut down the middle of the piece with a razor knife, trying to cut the backing but not the tape, then use that abrasion to try and pick up an edge and grab it with a hemostat. Maybe my roll is just old, or maybe the NAT125 is different than the 105C. Do you have trouble with the backing?

Best,

Dave

[Dave Bunge]

I have two rolls:
1. 1" turner's tape from Craft Supply. Not sure of the brand, bought it about 10 years ago, sticks great. I use this for the most demanding situations.
2. 2" Shurtape brand from Lowes that I use for general purpose jobs in the shop and around the house. It doesn't stick quite as well, but is good enough for most things, cheaper, and is easier to work with (backing liner peels more easily). Also the extra width is helpful sometimes.

The best way I've found to peel the backing is something that Alan Zenrich showed in a video on another forum: slice thru the liner with an Xacto knife starting about 1" from the edge and cutting all the way to the edge. Then use the tip of the blade to lift up the liner on one side of the cut.

[Bernie Kopfer]

One of the woodworking magazines would do us all a favor if they were to run some tests on different brands/types of tape. Thickness, ease of removing backing, amount of residue, adhesion, torque resistance are a few things that come to mind. My main complaint is how some tapes leave inordinate amounts of Adhesive on the workpiece, requiring chemical removal.

[Richard Coers]

Richard, I bought some Polyken tape in response to it being suggested previously (probably by you, I don't remember). However, I bought Polyken NAT125 instead of 105C not knowing I was doing something different. They are both cloth and both appear to have the same blue plastic backing. What I have is very strong tape, but my lord it is a struggle to get the blue backing off. I sometimes spend several minutes getting it off. The blue backing seems to be adhered to the tape about as well as the tape sticks to wood, because I routinely pull the tape off the wood while trying to pick up an edge on the backing. I've tried needles, razors, tweezers. My most (but not very) successful technique is to cut down the middle of the piece with a razor knife, trying to cut the backing but not the tape, then use that abrasion to try and pick up an edge and grab it with a hemostat. Maybe my roll is just old, or maybe the NAT125 is different than the 105C. Do you have trouble with the backing?

Best,

Dave

I agree Dave. If I have any trouble, I make a very shallow short X cut in the center of the piece of tape (just enough to cut the blue layer) with an XActo. Then pick the blue layer fresh cut with that blade. Works better than the edges.