Attaching standing desk legs to top

[Aaron Karp]

Hi all, I own a steel standing desk base with a cheap MFC top and would like to replace the top with a nice hardwood top of my own making (24x28). However the frame is designed to screw straight into the top, which would of course create challenges with hardwood due to seasonal movement. You can't see it that well on the website, but each leg has three round screw holes at the top (about M5 sized I'd guess), with a few more on the bar across the top.

What would you suggest for an attachment mechanism here? I would prefer not to modify the base if possible (e.g. enlarging the holes in the steel) but could if necessary. Thanks!

[Robert Engel]

Elongating the holes is the simplest answer.

Other than that a clip that overlaps the steel. The front can be fixed through an existing hole, allowing the top expanding rearward.

[Paul F Franklin]

Another option would be to have wooden bucks that screw to the underside of the top through slotted holes to allow for cross grain movement, and then screw through the legs into the bucks.

[Gary Ragatz]

Elongating the holes is the simplest answer.

+1

You should be able to leave the middle hole on each side as-is, and just elongate the holes toward the front and back. There's not going to be a ton of movement in a 24" top. Just work a drill back and forth a bit or elongate a little with a round file.

[Prashun Patel]

I would (and have) widened the holes in stages with a 3/8" and maybe a 1/2" cobalt bit, then use a pan head or cabinet screw (Kreg pocket screws work great) and a fender washer to attach through the hole to the table

Enlargening holes in steel or iron is not hard. It is easiest with a drill press.

[Aaron Karp]

Sounds like opening up the holes is the way to go. Good tip on the fender washer. Will probably use threaded inserts to make it easier to dis/reassemble when the day comes. Thanks all.

[Tom Bender]

Guessing that the frame is thin angle iron. Most important is the feel of the front edge so screw that tight. Then install screws with fender washers overlapping the angle iron along the sides and back.