That's an awesome door clamp you have there Joe. Is that all the glue you put on the tenons? Did the mortises get glue, too? Doesn't seem adequate but your track record speaks for itself.
John
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That's an awesome door clamp you have there Joe. Is that all the glue you put on the tenons? Did the mortises get glue, too? Doesn't seem adequate but your track record speaks for itself.
John
Contributor
And yours also Brian! I am only a joiner and you a top level furniture maker where your joinery is a few notches above mine. I can understand the shortcomings of the Domino for you. For me it works for odd stuff.Originally Posted by Brian Holcombe
Contributor
Mortise and tenon glued and end grain hand brushed. TB3. For doors and windows snug fit of joinery where joints can be pushed home without glue.
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Thanks Joe. I like that glue applicator; looks efficient. Do you trust TB3 for glued up door panels? I've seen a lot of glued up panels on doors that get sun on them split at the glue line in places like Breckenridge, CO. Mostly white oak, IIRC. I have no clue what glue they used, but TB3 has really poor performance at elevated temperature.
John
Contributor
[QUOTE=John TenEyck;3109115]Thanks Joe. I like that glue applicator; looks efficient. Do you trust TB3 for glued up door panels? I've seen a lot of glued up panels on doors that get sun on them split at the glue line in places like Breckenridge, CO. Mostly white oak, IIRC. I have no clue what glue they used, but TB3 has really poor performance at elevated temperature.
I always used “sprung joints” . An early employment demanded it , after that I was the “Johnny Appleseed” of sprung joints ! With a
jointer with a wheel outfeed adjustment it’s easy since you can file marks on edge of wheel and screw a pointer arrow to the jointer.
Some employers were skeptical at first . Then believers ....with little control of their shop to make anyone learn how....so I did most of the
panels ,often 125 or more at one time. I offered $20 for anyone who could find an open end on a panel. Guys were going to job sites on
weekends looking for treasure ! I bet Warren Mickey does them ...and uses a hand plane! THAT I could not do. I do know many don’t
like Titebond 3.
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Same with Mel, I have a feeling this has more to do with joint prep than the glue. I’m looking at a table that has been in direct sunlight for better than 10 years, spring joint with TB3. I rarely use titebond III anymore but I haven’t had trouble with it either.
Bumbling forward into the unknown.
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never a issue with TB3 John. It does have a inconsistent viscosity from bucket to bucket. I only buy fives and stir them a bit before dumping into the pot. Sometimes it’s lumpy.
Always wanted to use the glue for windows that Kleiberit sells but not readily available here. We have made miles of laminated window and door scantlings with TB3. Another good feature of Tightbond is no dulling of planer knives when running glued up blanks.
Exterior panels always get a spring joint and reinforced with either T&G or spline.
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Sometimes even wood bought as kiln dried and stored inside , will move a little . When possible I always cut the wood to glue-up size lengths
and let in sit overnight in warmest spot in shop. When the heated finishing room was not being used I would use that in cold weather.
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Just in case someone wants to try spring joint , I don’t think it’s possible to make one on a jointer without first doing a pass on the rough cut
pieces to get a straight “ordinary” edge. That straight edge guides the spring cutting as it goes over the rounded end of out-feed table.
Straight line saw will also serve , even though that is done on the still rough cut material. When making the spring pass some pressure must
be on the out feed side. While we have this thread going I encourage all to try it, and ask for advice as needed.
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YES ! Another one. Just for fun ( not info) I looked at a lot of online opinions on sprung joints. Astounded to find there are high
profile wood gurus with anti sprung joint leanings. They do have strong recommendations. Store your wood for months, or years ,in a nice
warm place. Use a certain kind of glue. Buy more clamps. I think it must be easier to get followers with easy suggestions than old proven facts. Sprung joints did not materialize from smoked joints. They have a long history ,but it’s possible I wouldn’t have been convinced
without “do it or get out” employment “tips”.
Last edited by Mel Fulks; 03-23-2021 at 9:04 PM.
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