Anyone use plugmolds on kit cabinets?

[Joe Hendershott]

I have a client that wants some plugmold or wiremold outlets on the bottom of the kitchen cabinets instead of the back splash.

Frameless cabinets. Has anyone used these before? The electrician will do the work of course but the client would like to not see them from across the room.

Plan to use a small light valance and extend the doors over it. The specs show they are all only about 19mm so will not be much. Anyone do it differently?

[Jim Becker]

One of the properties we looked at a few weeks ago had "hidden" outlets like that under the top cabinets. The bottom line is going to be code and whether or not "wiremold" type strips can meet the requirements for kitchen use like this...the licensed electrician should be consulted on that as part of the design phase here. There are practical downsides to this for the client to consider...it's harder to see the outlets when attempting to plug something in and there may be more cord exposure for a small appliance that happens to live on the counter that stays plugged in. You'd also want them toward the back of the upper cabinets, too, for practical use as cords extending over a hot appliance would not be the best idea.

[Jamie Buxton]

I've done it once. The client had a mosaic tile design for the wall which they didn't want to interrupt with outlets. I put the wiremold at the intersection of the wall and the cabinet. I set it at 45 degrees so their knuckles don't get trapped when they're plugging something in. I put a skirt along the front of the uppers to help shield the wiremold from view. You could do that to your frameless cabinets.

[Joe Hendershott]

One of the properties we looked at a few weeks ago had "hidden" outlets like that under the top cabinets. The bottom line is going to be code and whether or not "wiremold" type strips can meet the requirements for kitchen use like this...the licensed electrician should be consulted on that as part of the design phase here. There are practical downsides to this for the client to consider...it's harder to see the outlets when attempting to plug something in and there may be more cord exposure for a small appliance that happens to live on the counter that stays plugged in. You'd also want them toward the back of the upper cabinets, too, for practical use as cords extending over a hot appliance would not be the best idea.

I wasn't clear enough, sorry. The electrician will do all of the placement, I only need worry about making them less visible. The client has used them before so they know the upside and downsides.

[Joe Hendershott]

I've done it once. The client had a mosaic tile design for the wall which they didn't want to interrupt with outlets. I put the wiremold at the intersection of the wall and the cabinet. I set it at 45 degrees so their knuckles don't get trapped when they're plugging something in. I put a skirt along the front of the uppers to help shield the wiremold from view. You could do that to your frameless cabinets.

Looks like the only reasonable way to hide them.

[Carroll Courtney]

Don't want to see wire mold but will see cord that is plug into wire mold? Guessing maybe want that clean look with no appliances on counter top. Over the yrs I have installed lots of it but mostly in commercial applications. Not to much in someone's house, but I do have them on my work bench Pain to install, more so being upside down.

[Dave Sabo]

Looks like the only reasonable way to hide them.

I've been doing these for over two decades. The cleanest way we've found is to block out the wall cabinets on 2x4's with the bottom one raised about an inch above the bottom of the cabinet. The plugmold gets attached to this and is not seen from the front or sides -and doesn't require the the hassle or clutter of extended doors, sidewalls, or the use of valence. We integrate the u/c lighting flush into the bottom of the cabinets, whether it be halogen in the old days or LED now.

There are two versions, one is steel. The other is aluminum and a bit thicker than 19mm. It comes in several finishes and for the high rollers - the receptacle locations can be specified.


I know of no code issues with it. For a while , tamperproof was not offered and that was an issue in some places.

[Joe Hendershott]

I've been doing these for over two decades. The cleanest way we've found is to block out the wall cabinets on 2x4's with the bottom one raised about an inch above the bottom of the cabinet. The plugmold gets attached to this and is not seen from the front or sides -and doesn't require the the hassle or clutter of extended doors, sidewalls, or the use of valence. We integrate the u/c lighting flush into the bottom of the cabinets, whether it be halogen in the old days or LED now.

There are two versions, one is steel. The other is aluminum and a bit thicker than 19mm. It comes in several finishes and for the high rollers - the receptacle locations can be specified.


I know of no code issues with it. For a while , tamperproof was not offered and that was an issue in some places.

Thanks Dave for helping out. Do you have any photos or drawings of doing it this way? If I understand, you're moving the upper cabinets out 1.5"? If so, what do you fill in that area between wall and cabinet with? No one has an issue with increasing the depth and thus space overhanging the counter?

Certainly sounds like it is the best solution if I can do it.

[David Jurincie]

I specified plugmold outlets under the cabinets when we had our house built in NC 6 years ago. I like the look of the uninterrupted backsplash and I have seen recommendations not to leave kitchen appliances plugged in when not in use. There were no issues with the inspections and we have been very happy with the decision.

[Joe Hendershott]

I specified plugmold outlets under the cabinets when we had our house built in NC 6 years ago. I like the look of the uninterrupted backsplash and I have seen recommendations not to leave kitchen appliances plugged in when not in use. There were no issues with the inspections and we have been very happy with the decision.

Can you post a photo of how your's look, please?

[Dave Sabo]

Thanks Dave for helping out. Do you have any photos or drawings of doing it this way? If I understand, you're moving the upper cabinets out 1.5"? If so, what do you fill in that area between wall and cabinet with? No one has an issue with increasing the depth and thus space overhanging the counter?

Certainly sounds like it is the best solution if I can do it.

Not following the “fill in “ question.

No objections to depth. It’s only an inch and a half. They want the plugs cleanly hidden or they don’t.


400C0CCC-74F5-4E3D-A828-C95E561BB6FF.jpg

[David Jurincie]

plugmold.jpg
Here is the plug mold the builder installed under out kitchen cabinets.

[Joe Jensen]

Our architect spec'd these, Adorne by Legrand. With the outlets at an angle they are easy to plug into and they are relatively hidden. We do have a valence around the lower edge of our cabinets that mostly hides the outlets.


Here is a web pic and the other two are from my kitchen.