Looks for some Finish advice

[David Feldbaum]

I am making coasters for a second project as a very novice woodworker. Made them and now comes the finishing. Again I am sure this is another learning curve but here are my grips.

I believe I used Babinga and oak as my wood. I have general finish high performance top coat in semi gloss. Read the instruction after one coat, then lightly sanded with 320 and put another coat on. dried and repeated. I noticed that the finish just doesn't look very nice in my opinion. I see tiny air bubbles. is this the wrong finish perhaps on this type of wood? I used the cheap foam brushes. The photos dont really show what I mean exactly so I can always take more if people request this.

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[John TenEyck]

Porous woods like that often show air bubbles until you get the pores completely filled. They should go away if you add another coat or two. Alternatively, you can try adding 4 or 5% water or Extender. Also, make sure both the wood and finish are at least 65 F, 70 F would be even better. Foam brushes work fine but just flow the finish on, don't go back and forth over it as that can add bubbles.

John

[David Feldbaum]

Hi John. Thanks for the tip. The temp seems right since my basement is usually 65-68 as of right now. Would you suggest another type of finish or another type of brush, or just it is what it is. I can keep building up the coats. I was then going to drop some wax as a final final coat. As a general rule in between coats to use 320, or would 400 or 600 be better?Seems the foam applicator barely puts a coat on so maybe the 320 is taking it off down a layer.

[John TenEyck]

If you don't want a lot of build up you can sand fairly heavily between coats if you want. The finish that goes into the pores won't be effected. When you get a coat covers the surface with no pores still showing then you can just lightly sand with 320 or higher, and apply what hopefully will be the last coat.

If your coats are really thin you aren't putting enough finish on the brush. You want the finish to flow out of the brush and self level. Applying it too thinly might be why you're getting bubbles; it's setting up before it has time to flow out. There's no right or wrong, just whatever works for you.

John

[Lee Schierer]

By any chance did you shake the can to mix the finish? If so don't do it that way anymore. Always stir film forming wood finish.

[David Feldbaum]

Nope. I actually read the instructions which is a rare thing for me, but I did not shake it, but stir with a Popsicle stick. I will be finishing the samples this weekend and see if i can spread some more on the wood. I think i might have done too light of a coat.

[David Feldbaum]

so i dont know if its me, which it probably is due to my inexperience with wood shop, but this finish sucks. I used another foam brush and made sure it was put on thicker. i still get the same tiny pumps on the wood. Does anyone here have some advice on a nice easy clear coat on top of my coasters. They contain resin and hardwoods that are exotic. my sample parts have now 3 coats and each coat gets sanded with 400. this is a tough one because my wood is 1/2" thick, so when i brush on top i leaks to the sides and it doesn't seem to get the best even coat. should I be dipping this stuff then hanging to dry?

[John TenEyck]

Might be time to sand to bare wood and try an oil based varnish. Take some scrap first and try one on that to see if it solves the problem.

John

[David Feldbaum]

Thanks. I will give this a try. I guess when it comes to finish there is no rhyme or reason, just whatever looks the best, although im sure many will argue I am not right and there are specific finishes for carious types of wood. maybe i can try another applicator to apply this finish. good thing i have 2 samples i made before the real coasters i am trying to finish.

[David Feldbaum]

I just thought of something and I dont know if that has anything to do with it. I am sanding my coasters up to like 400 and maybe 600 grit. Do you think that is too fine, so when I put on the finish top coat the pores are closed too much so it doesn't seep into the wood?

[Mike Nardini]

I believe the initial sanding of raw wood should be with 120 grit paper then 150-180 grit paper when using GF High Performance then 220-300 sponge sanding pad between coats. 400-600 grit is, in my opinion, to fine of a grit.

[John Adank]

I would finish sand to 180 grit but no more than 220. I would also purchase a higher quality foam brush like a Wooster brand. Take some finish and pour it in a smaller cup and Thin it with 5% distilled water and stir it well. Keep a wet edge when applying and use lighter strokes in one direction and don’t work it in like oil based finishes. GF is a great water based top coat but it still can leave some wood looking a little milky white as opposed to an oil based finish. You don’t build this finish up like an oil finish. Usually, 3 coats is plenty. Filling the grain as also was suggested would help as well. If you don’t mind using oil based finishes, General Finishes Arm-R-Seal or WATERLOX work fantastic when applying with a cotton rag. You apply 5 to 6 thin coats to the wood. Allow about 8 hours between coats and lightly sand in between coats with a 600-800 sand paper or steel wool. The oil based finish will make the wood pop.