Sawstop Rusting Quickly

[derek labian]

I switched to a sawstop PCS about 3 weeks ago. I degreased it and coated it with Glidecoat. I got it out today and it has a sizable amount of rust on it. I must be doing something wrong. I didn't cut that much wood on it, so I hadn't re-applied another coat since unbundling it. Any advice on this and any advice on what to do about the rust on it?

I have no problems with other equipment including new jointer and old shaper, same process. The only thing I can figure is that the wood rubbed off the coating, and it rusted, perhaps I need to re-apply glidecoat ever weekend?

Attached pictures were after i soaked it with a WD40 degreaser today, cleaned it with mineral spirits, and then re-glide-coated it.

[Steve Eure]

In my experience, those spray coatings don't last as long as good ole paste wax. I had the same problem on my lathe using glide-coat, so it's back to the wax. I even tried some WD-40 silicon spray. It goes on much like glide-coat. Spray it on, let it dry, and rub off. Really makes things slide well, but it doesn't last long.

[Doug Dawson]

In my experience, those spray coatings don't last as long as good ole paste wax. I had the same problem on my lathe using glide-coat, so it's back to the wax. I even tried some WD-40 silicon spray. It goes on much like glide-coat. Spray it on, let it dry, and rub off. Really makes things slide well, but it doesn't last long.

What I find works best is a coat of rust preventative (I use CRC 3 36,) let it soak into the pores and dry, then a liberal layer of paste wax on top of that. Never a problem with rust, a year or more between touch-ups.

[Alan Lightstone]

I use CRC 3-36 also, but have had some minor rust issues with it. Perhaps I'm not applying it often enough, and I don't wax afterwards which I think I'll try doing now.

That being said, CRC 3-36 was tested very highly by a woodworking magazine a few years ago, and I do use a bunch of it here in 150% humidity Florida.

Where are you located? Your anti-rust regimen depends on how humid your shop/home is, and how often there are big changes in temperature/humidity.

[Bryce Andersen]

Do you guys use the spray bottle or the airerosol can?

[derek labian]

Alan,

It's in my garage currently so it can get pretty humid. I'm trying to build a dedicated shop, but the permit process is very slow if I get approved at all. Just trying to bide my time until I either move or build a shop.

Doug/Steve,

Good advice, I just ordered some. Ill do that and go back to paste wax. I want to get the rust off and its probably mostly surface rust. What do you guys find the best process? I tried some recommended acids but didn't like the results on other tools.

[Jason Evans]

I can’t say much more than the others have, but OUCH! A Brand new sawstop!

I’ve started using Crc 3-36 too sprayed onto a shop towel and lightly wipe down the top, then paste wax after a day or two of drying. The crc didn’t seem to dry all the way, I even let it dry for like 4-5 days when I first got the saw. So I can’t imagine the crc alone would last too long with use, could be wrong though.

I think I’ll just stick with the paste wax though since it dries fast.

[Doug Dawson]

Alan,

It's in my garage currently so it can get pretty humid. I'm trying to build a dedicated shop, but the permit process is very slow if I get approved at all. Just trying to bide my time until I either move or build a shop.

Doug/Steve,

Good advice, I just ordered some. Ill do that and go back to paste wax. I want to get the rust off and its probably mostly surface rust. What do you guys find the best process? I tried some recommended acids but didn't like the results on other tools.

I use the sandflex hand blocks: https://www.amazon.com/Sandflex-Sand...s%2C181&sr=1-2 for minor rust touch-ups.

The CRC 3 36 I get in a spray bottle, you can get gallon refills for it.

[Charles Coolidge]

Glidecoat is a poor rust inhibitor. It's great for creating a slick surface wood glides over (love it for that) but I made the same mistake thinking it would inhibit rust. Now I wipe down the machines with Boeshield T-9 here in the pacific NW rain forest.

Another product, Evaporust will eradicate the rust. Very cool stuff I first used it on a vintage radial arm saw rebuild, unreal how well it worked.

[Cary Falk]

I use T9 followed by paste wax.

[jim sauterer]

I have used Johnson paste wax for years. Works for me

[Curt Putnam]

CorrosionX HD - spray it om, let it soak in, wipe off and follow with Johnson's Paste Wax

[Alan Lightstone]

I'm not sure the CRC 3-36 dries either. I use the Aerosol cans, and wipe it off the next day.

I have had small bits of breakthrough rust, though, so I think I'll start following this with paste wax. Don't like the stuff, but if it works, who cares...

[Frank Pratt]

In my experience, those spray coatings don't last as long as good ole paste wax. I had the same problem on my lathe using glide-coat, so it's back to the wax. I even tried some WD-40 silicon spray. It goes on much like glide-coat. Spray it on, let it dry, and rub off. Really makes things slide well, but it doesn't last long.

You should be aware that anything containing silicon should not be used in a wood shop. The tiniest amount on the surface will cause havoc with finishes. And it's very difficult to get off of wood.

[Mike Goetzke]

I used this process for my cast iron tops that many suggested years ago. It was know as "Dave's Dirty Dozen." I modified it a bit but mostly stuck with list below:

1) Scrape as much of the sludge as you can off with cardboard from the shipping container or a plastic scraper.
2) Use Simple Green right out of the container and tons of paper towels to get the rest off.
3) Wash off the Simple Green with more paper towels and clear water. Dry off with even more paper towels.
4) Spray the top down liberally with WD40. The WD in WD40 stands for Water Displacing, by the way.
5) Take a finishing sander, like a Porter-Cable 330, and put it on a ScotchBrite green pad. Random Orbital will work, but makes a hell of a mess.
6) Sand the top evenly until you feel like you've "massaged" the WD40 in very well. This also will knock some sharp spots off your top, a good thing.
7) Take even more paper towels, and wipe the top until dry. It will feel slightly oily.
8) Using a quality furniture paste wax (Johnson's, Minwax, Butcher's, whatever is available in your area), wax the top thoroughly and allow to dry.
9) Wipe off the bulk of the excess wax with paper towels.
10) Wax it again.
11) Buff well with paper towels.
12) Last step. Take a piece of wood with straight edges, and rub the surface of the saw in the direction of cut with the wood, as though you were cross-cutting it.
It's a damn sight more steps than "wash off with kerosene", which is what all the manuals say. But, it leaves a top that is seriously ready for work, and won't need to be screwed with every couple months. I rewax my tops every year or two, and they ain't rusty...


Dave Arbuckle