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Thread: Sawstop Rusting Quickly

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    New York, NY
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    2,203
    Someone here mentioned they'd trimmed magnetic sheets to fit the bare metal tops of their machines to keep moisture off when not in use. Haven't tried this but it sounded like a clever solution.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    9,978
    location and climate? Moving to the Mojave desert may not work as well as you think. Portions are not buildable due to flooding.

  3. #18
    Quote Originally Posted by Charles Coolidge View Post
    Another product, Evaporust will eradicate the rust. Very cool stuff I first used it on a vintage radial arm saw rebuild, unreal how well it worked.
    It looks like most people are submerging items in evaporust. How are you applying it to a TS?

  4. #19
    I actually was using Paste Wax (Johnsons) and then I saw one of those monthly meetings from WWGOA guy who said he doesn't use paste wax because it gets in your projects pores. Instead he uses Glidecote etc. I think the difference is he has a climate controlled shop. Bad advice. I'm going back to paste wax after I get this rust cleaned up. Thanks to everyone for the responses.

  5. #20
    Quote Originally Posted by derek labian View Post
    It looks like most people are submerging items in evaporust. How are you applying it to a TS?
    I’ve had good success removing rust by dipping stuff in Evaporust for a while. But I’ve never found it very useful as a surface application. (Yes I’ve tried this.)

  6. #21
    Quote Originally Posted by derek labian View Post
    I actually was using Paste Wax (Johnsons) and then I saw one of those monthly meetings from WWGOA guy who said he doesn't use paste wax because it gets in your projects pores. Instead he uses Glidecote etc. I think the difference is he has a climate controlled shop. Bad advice. I'm going back to paste wax after I get this rust cleaned up. Thanks to everyone for the responses.
    I’ve never had a problem with buffed-out paste wax contaminating wood surfaces, and I’ve never heard of anyone who seriously has.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Edwardsville, IL.
    Posts
    1,673
    I paste wax my tools once or twice a year and keep the tools I am not using all the time covered with those moisture covers. No issues. This time a year, in particular is easy for condensation to form due to the back and forth hot/ cold temps., ( if you shop is not temp control ) , and the normal rainy season moisture.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Tampa Bay, FL
    Posts
    3,925
    OK, so you convinced me at least. I sprayed CRC 3-36 on my table saw, bandsaw, and jointer a few days ago, and yesterday put on Johnson's Paste Wax and buffed it. Had to use my car buffer - it really didn't want to buff off easily by hand. I must have put on too much.

    Anyway, very smooth to the touch now. Ready for the car show. Or cutting wood. Time will tell how well it will work for rust in good old Florida, albeit climate controlled Florida.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  9. #24
    I'd recommend running a dehumidifier. I'm terrible about remembering to wax my equipment but I don't have any rust issues.

    A dehumidifier will keep your lumber drier too.

    Alan

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Millstone, NJ
    Posts
    1,631
    My garage in NJ is on the opposite side the wind hits the house. For whatever reason when I get rain/snow in the cold followed by an unseasonably warm day I bring in enough humidity to surface rust everything in my garage. For the rest of the year its not too bad but will creap up on me.

    I coat all my hand tools with ballistol every 6 month or so and after any sharpening. the tops get cleaned and I get away with just glidecoat/ felder spray. I added a dehumidifier and run the hose out to driveway.

    I put Dessicant cans( I actually 3d print the cans and fill them with rechargable beads) in each drawer and stopped using a tool wall for anything bare steel.

    DEHUMIDIFIER is key( i have an LG 50 pint but if you have the money get a permanent solution like Santa Fe)

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Falls Church, VA
    Posts
    2,344
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    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Cary Falk View Post
    I use T9 followed by paste wax.
    I had to put all my machines in storage for over a year while we constructed our house. I used t9 followed by paste wax on the machined surfaces and there was no rust.

    I also protected the cast iron by taping cardboard over the machined surfaces. That was so we could pile things on top. The band saw table and table saw wings were removed and packed separately to cut down on the weight.

  12. Quote Originally Posted by derek labian View Post
    It looks like most people are submerging items in evaporust. How are you applying it to a TS?
    For flat surfaces like a table saw guys soak paper towels in Evaporust, lay them out across the table then cover the table in plastic wrap so it doesn't dry out. Somewhere there's a vintage machine forum, there are quite a few threads on this over there where guys are restoring old iron machines. I think that's where I first read about Evaporust.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    The Hartland of Michigan
    Posts
    7,628
    OK, I'm going to toss this into the ring.
    Use Bar Keepers Friend to get the rust off.
    Get the mess from that removed any way you want. Simple Green, etc.
    Use naphtha or alcohol to scrub the table to the metal.
    Apply paste wax and melt it into the surface with a heat gun.
    Buff it up and use it.

  14. #29
    I've ordered a dehumidifier w/ 70pt capacity, I figure that can't hurt. I also received the CRC 3-36. I think I'm going to start with that and a paste wax layer on top.

    Interesting tip on bar keepers friend, I have some of that around the house, I'll have to look into it.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Porter,TX
    Posts
    1,523
    What I use and it does seem to work will last few months. I spray it on small rag maybe 6"x6" kinda soak it down with spray then work it into the cast iron top. Do that couple times, then I put that rag into a baggie so it will stay wet. Does not leave an oil film on surface but do have to let it soak in and dry. I also have couple cans of T9 which is also works for few months.
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