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Thread: Cutting Acrylic

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
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    Cutting Acrylic

    Hi all. I know a guy with a laser. He cut me a router template out of ¼” hard board. Initially I wanted an acrylic template but he said that sometimes the laser will skew while going through ¼” acrylic. Because I am worried about the fragility of the hardboard, I’d still like an acrylic template.

    QUESTION:

    Can I cut the acrylic using my table saw and router? What should I know about that process?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
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    SE Pennsylvania- Chester County
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    i've cut acrylic using my table/miter saw before. Didn't have any issues... is a bit messy if I recall.

  3. #3
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    I cut it all the time on both the table saw and router. On the table saw a finer tooth blade works better but don't go too slow because it'll melt the kerf. With the router, it routes just like hardwood only you don't have to worry about grain direction, just bandsaw as close to the line as you can before you router it. It's very messy....

  4. #4
    I use a Triple Chip Grind blade on the table saw and it cuts just fine and is a bit messy.

    Routing is I problem either, but again the mess...
    Still waters run deep.

  5. #5
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    Cambridge Vermont
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    I just bought a universal one off of ebay for less than $20. Unless you have an unusual hole pattern or want an unusual shape I doubt that the time and effort would be worth it. Plexiglass will chip if you go too fast. If you go too slow or the blade isn't sharp the chips will melt and fill in the slot you've just made. A cheap plexiglass knife will cut it easier and then just a little sanding will clean it up.

  6. #6
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    Mar 2018
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    Piercefield, NY
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    I have cut acrylic on the bandsaw, it worked fine. I also cut upholstery foam on the bandsaw, and brass and aluminum, so I'm probably somewhat deranged.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
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    SW Florida
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    Freud makes a great blade for cutting on the table saw. As mentioned, don't go too slowly as it will melt and yes, it's quite messy! I put a link to the blade here but if that breaks any rules, please forgive me and the mods can remove the link.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    A wannabe woodworker!

  8. #8
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    Acrylic is very prone to breakage, particularly when compressed under a screw head. If you want a see through base for your router use polycarbonate. It is much more resistant to breakage than Acrylic. Polycarbonate can also be work with wood working equipment with less mess.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  9. #9
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    Not a base. A template. For repetitive cuts.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mitchell Ristine View Post
    Not a base. A template. For repetitive cuts.
    Even so, Acrylic is brittle.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  11. #11
    baltic birch for templates

  12. #12
    1/2" acrylic isn't going to prove much more durable. I use 3/4" multiply for any templates that need to last. The ever present end grain makes it hard enough and the extra thickness leave room for error.

  13. #13
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    Only use a single O flute router bit and slower speeds. A traditional up cut spiral will build enough heat to weld a wad of swarf to the bit and mar the surface of the acrylic. A laser can produce an hour glass shape cut, but I think some creative focusing can limit that.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
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    Itapevi, SP - Brazil
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    Exactly

    Quote Originally Posted by Lee Schierer View Post
    Acrylic is very prone to breakage, particularly when compressed under a screw head. If you want a see through base for your router use polycarbonate. It is much more resistant to breakage than Acrylic. Polycarbonate can also be work with wood working equipment with less mess.
    I was to write that. I use polycarbonate for a such application, also.

    On the other extreme I have some router plates made from 6mm MDF and "super glue" applied over cut edges. It has worked...

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Hayes, Virginia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mitchell Ristine View Post
    Hi all. I know a guy with a laser. He cut me a router template out of ¼” hard board. Initially I wanted an acrylic template but he said that sometimes the laser will skew while going through ¼” acrylic. Because I am worried about the fragility of the hardboard, I’d still like an acrylic template.

    QUESTION:

    Can I cut the acrylic using my table saw and router? What should I know about that process?
    I'm not sure that I understand what it means for a laser to skew when cutting acrylic. I can tell you that if you are going to use a bearing against extruded acrylic the bearing will often melt the acrylic edge on contact. I have had very good success using 1/4" thick cast acrylic for routing templates that I have used for years.

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