On the fence

[Michael J Evans]

Hi all
I have a old craftsman 113 with the original fence, as everyone is likely aware the original fence isn't the greatest and doesn't stay parallel and I've found it to slip with to much pressure from a feather board. Other issues I have with the saw is the blade doesn't seem to stay true 90 when raising or lowering, and also it cant seem to keep a bevel angle.

I'm on the fence about what to do, upgrade fence or just lay out some cash for a used cabinet saw.

I'm mostly a tinkerer and neander and much prefer working in solid wood, but the wife wants some cabinets and built ins made that are going to be sheet goods. I just don't feel confident in my current fence to make good accurate repeatable cuts.

My dilemma is I don't want to bust out 1200-1500 for a used cabinet saw (which is what they're going for around here) but in the same breath I realize throwing $200-300 fence on the saw, still makes is a 100 saw on a good day. I also don't currently have 220v, so that factors in, but isn't a deal breaker.

I have, but don't want to spend 1200 on a new saw. I also don't want to throw money at a saw that doesn't have much value. If I was going to upgrade the fence it would likely be a t3 which is $200.

My gut says buck up and get a cabinet saw, but that "if you think we have the money / buy whatever you want" sarcastic answer from the wife has been holding me back.

So if you were mostly a solid wood, smaller project occasional type of wood worker, what would you do?

And To all those people about to say "be patient and you can get a unisaw for 500. " you are partially correct. If I was retired and could leave on a dime likely so. But the actual deals I've came across, where ive messaged people in the first day, end up selling almost instantly / before I can get to them.

One last thought is a track saw. I haven't done much research on them, but have read a lot of guys saying for plywood they're great. If that's a good option for cabinet projects let me know.

Sorry for my muddled post. Lots of thought processes going on.

Thanks
Michael.

[Jim Matthews]

I own a larger 18" bandsaw for handling thicker stock than I care to cut by hand.

My venerable Porter Cable circular saw/EZSmart tracksaw breaks down plywood on rare occasion. No tablesaw in my shop.

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If you purchase a better fence, it could presumably fit a better tablesaw - should one appear.
Perhaps a fresh blade will revitalize the performance of the tool?

****

My mentor had a similar saw as the centerpiece of his shop. It was embedded in a shop built enclosure for dust collection (more like dust concentration), stability and mass.

When he needed to change a blade, it lifted out of the station.

It resembles the build in the following link:

https://youtu.be/SnaYsIruC9Q

[Bruce Wrenn]

Eventually you are going to get a cabinet saw. Why not now? Once you have a cabinet saw, you will be kicking your back side for not purchasing one earlier.

[Lee Schierer]

Maybe look at the Rigid R4250 table saw. They cost ~$750 and are a step up fence wise from your 113 saw. My son purchased one for his first saw and is quite pleased with it. Out of the box it was aligned pretty well. He did take the time to get it near perfect. They have decent guards and a riving knife.

[Jon Endres]

I have a Unisaw with a Mule Accusquare fence. Total cost to me was a little over $1000 and I bought both new (old stock on the Unisaw). I also have a good bandsaw and a track saw (Hitachi/EZ-Smart). I found the track saw to be indispensable for cabinets as I do not like working with sheet goods on the table saw, but the table saw was also indispensable for face frames and smaller parts. I would continue to look for a good used cabinet saw and hopefully you can be the first to grab it. There's also a lot to be said for the Grizzly saws, you can get the Grizzly G0771Z brand new for $1200 including shipping and that should last you a lifetime. Should also be looking for Powermatics, the PM 66 is a beast of a saw and easily tweaked to make it perfect.

[Curt Putnam]

If a track saw will not do it for you, then yes, you want a cab saw. There is at least 1 with a 120v moter (Sawstop)

[John TenEyck]

For what you would spend on a tracksaw, rails, etc. you can buy a used cabinet saw. No comparison in my world. I built my kitchen with a Sears saw, including that lousy fence. I had to measure for every cut but that's what you do if you don't have the money for anything better and at the time I didn't. I didn't have any problems with it holding 90 degrees, but bevels were never good because the trunnions wouldn't stay aligned to the table. I eventually got a used Unisaw but I kept the Sears saw and bolted the two together and put one 52" Vega Pro fence across both saws. I still use the Sears saw with my big crosscut sled where it yields perfect 90/90 deg cuts every time.

John

[Lisa Starr]

Do you want a better table saw for any reason other than the cabinets? If the cabinets are your only reason, a track saw will be way easier to use and then store afterward. I for one, don't feel safe wrestling full sheets of plywood on a table saw, but you may feel differently.

[Michael J Evans]

Hi Lisa
Yes and no. I want a better table saw just in general but the main driving factors are the cabinets right now.

[Andrew More]

Went through the same struggle myself. I ended up with a SawStop.

I think you've got a good handle on the issues: saw you have isn't worth a new fence, all the solutions are better on a new saw. Track saws are a decent solution, but those are getting pretty close to the cost of used cabinet saw.

In my case, while I had a old Grizzly for a few years, that cost $800, I've got the resources to spend to get a better tool, and don't want to lose my fingers. Also have a son and daughter who might want to use it one day, same issue.

The only other cheap but decent solution is to buy just a Beiseymeyer style fence on Ebay, and get the rails from a local metal supplier.

Frankly, I don't think there are any good solutions to this issue. Precision costs money, and that's just the way of things.

[Richard Verwoest]

Do you have a skill saw? Look at the bora ndx straight edges. Even with a cabinet saw, these will be handy for breaking down sheet goods. And with a decent blade, you can start building your wifes cabinets. Then take your time and figure out what you want for a "new" table saw.

Richard

[Michael J Evans]

Hi Richard
I have a skil saw. I'll check out the Bora fence.
Your correct that either way I'm not trying to solo handle full sheets or or cut them to size from a full sheet. I'm a young guy at 29 and I still don't enjoy lugging full sheets of plywood.

[Curt Putnam]

Hi Lisa
Yes and no. I want a better table saw just in general but the main driving factors are the cabinets right now.

I sold my table saw thinking I could do what I wanted with my tracksaw. In theory, I can but not in practice. They are lousy with stock more narrow than the track - such as rails and stiles. I have an older tracksaw )Festool ATF55) and acurrate depth of cut adjustment is a royal pain and nigh on impossible, at least for me.

Therefore, IMHO, if quality cabinets are your main driver, you really want a good table saw, preferably a cab saw, used or new.

[Michael J Evans]

Thanks Curt
I've always wondered how the track saws.
I think I'm justifying buying a better saw for the cabinets, but that's how it goes. I'm now looking at grizzly and Harvey saws. They both seem to be good options. Used is great, but with full time employment two kids and lacking a group of friends to move a saw, I'm likely going to go new(especially with the stimulus money). Buy once cry once I guess. Now trying to decide between hybrid or flow blown cabinet. Thinking cabinet saw.

[Rod Wolfy]

Michael, I guess I'm of the opposite opinion. I started woodworking about 20 years ago. I bought a Jet cabinet saw with a 52" table. Trying to accurately cut sheet goods for cabinets was a royal pain. You have to get the edge up on the saw 8' away and then you'll need an outfeed table of some kind to catch the work. Trying to keep the edge of a sheet to the fence on say a 12" rip over the whole 8' is difficult.

I ended up with a Festool, as no other track saws were made at the time. It was like night and day better. I got a couple of saw horses and put them in my driveway. I put down a sheet of 3" hard foam insulation and then put the sheet on that. You mark your cuts, put the track on the line and cut. I had a Felder and still used the track saw to cut down sheet goods, before using them on the sliding table.

I took my track saw to my parents house and made an entire set of cabinets for my mom there using my track saw and a portable router table. The one thing I agree about is you'll need a table saw for ripping. My face frames were made by purchasing 6" poplar at the store and ripping them down to 2" for face frames, using a pocket hole jig.

I currently use a SawStop with a 36" fence. I cut the sheet goods down in the driveway, blow away the sawdust and stack the wood in the garage for projects. I've had the Festool for 15 years and still use it all the time.