outlets for 240V/30A

[Matthew Hills]

Are folks using the twist-lock (L6-30) or plug-in (6-30) outlets for their tools/DC?

Matt

[Malcolm McLeod]

Are folks using the twist-lock (L6-30) or plug-in (6-30) outlets for their tools/DC?

Matt

I use the L6-30R for all the 240V tools, except a bandsaw with molded straight blade 6-20P, it gets a dedicated receptacle (6-20R). I like the locking feature on the 30A, so if a cord needs to 'hang' there is zero worry that casual contact will pull it loose. No complaints.

[Rod Sheridan]

I never use locking receptacles unless required by position.............Regards, Rod.

[Jim Becker]

Are folks using the twist-lock (L6-30) or plug-in (6-30) outlets for their tools/DC?

Matt

I use twist locks for all of my 240v machines. Part of the reason for that is I do pigtails...very short cords physically on the machine...with a custom length extension to the receptacle. I'm more comfortable with the positive locking that the twist lock brings. Right now, I have both 20a and 30a versions; in my new shop, I'm standardizing on 30 amp everywhere for both the circuit and the plugs/receptacles. (My CNC uses four wire, so that's an L14 rather than an L6)

[Dave Seng]

I've been using standard 6-30 receptacles. No problems or hassles so far.

[Rod Sheridan]

I've been using standard 6-30 receptacles. No problems or hassles so far.

Where I work we have far more failures of locking than straight blade devices.

I find that people don't insert and lock the devices well, straight blade devices are obvious when they're not fully inserted............Rod.

[Scott Bernstein]

I use long extension cables to be able to move my machines around the garage "shop", so I prefer the locking plugs/receptacles. The first 220v outlet I had installed was done by an electrician. At the time, he didn't know how big of a machine I was anticipating so he installed a four-wire locking 30A outlet (L14-30). Since then I added two more such outlets myself of the same type. My 220V machines all need only 3-wire, 20A connections so I installed L14-30 plugs on all of them and just use only the three wires...but the outlets themselves do have proper 4-wire connections.

[Doug Dawson]

Are folks using the twist-lock (L6-30) or plug-in (6-30) outlets for their tools/DC?

I use the standard plug-in’s, because I’m too lazy to swap out the usual machine cords without a pressing need. (Somebody once offered me an Adderall, but I just say no to drugs.)

The idea that 240v is more scary than 120v is easily dispelled by holding a hair dryer in each hand. Do the wonders ever cease. :^)

[Jack Llewyllson]

Just finished (knock on wood) wiring my shop. I set the bottoms of my 120V boxes at 50" AFF, and ringed the shop with those (plus a couple in the ceiling).

My 240V/30A outlets are hammer height off the floor and also ring the shop, plus one in the ceiling. They're all twist-locks.

I have one SO cable extension cord plugged into an overhead twist-lock and looped onto a ceiling hook; it's suspended from a Kellums grip and is long enough to stretch out past the roll-up door if I want to roll my planer onto the driveway. I have a second SO extension cord that will reach almost anywhere in my small shop, from nearly any of the low-mounted 240V twists-lock outlets.

I standardized on L6-30R outlets because I've used them before and liked them. When I get my equipment moved into the new space, I'll need to lop off and replace the plugs on my table saw, bandsaw, and planer. Ironically, in the shop before last, a couple of them used to have twist-lock plugs. That means I've got a couple of old NEMA whales swimming around in my electrical junk box, which takes some of the financial pain out of converting back.

I look at it as an opportunity to replace the skinny-gauge cords that factories often install. It used to be that a lot of shop-grade tools didn't even come with cords (IIRC, my JET planer came that way). That was something you managed on your own. Sometimes I think that factories finally threw up their hands in the home shop market and allowed as they'd put on cords... but not very good ones. Indeed, the very cheapest they could get away with. While you're replacing them with better conductors, you can put on whatever suits you best.

My other circuits are 120V for the light runs, 120V outdoor sockets, a 6-50R welding outlet, and a 60A disconnect for the air compressor.

Part of my logic in favor of twist locks is instant visual recognition. Another aspect is that, IME, tamper-resistant 120V outlets grip the plug prongs pretty well, but standard 220V outlets do not. That annoys me, particularly with my Long Ranger for the dust collector. Mounted high enough to be "visible" to its IR remote makes the cord hang heavy on the outlet, and it needs checking from time to time.

Part of it isn't "logic," at all. I kinda like plugging a serious plug into a serious outlet. It reminds me to pay attention. As far as convenience is concerned, my 240V machines move occasionally, but not frequently. Twist locks are not an obstacle to semi-permanent stationing.

Furthermore, it's easier to find 30A-rated twist lock outlets and plugs at home centers than 30A-rated "standard" devices. As I've run 30A circuits just to have the overhead capacity, I wanted to be legal and safe with my device selection. It's not that 240V power is "scarier" power than 120V -- after all, it's the amps that kill ya, right? For me, it's more that wiring or plugging a device into a 30A circuit when the device is rated for 20A seems kinda dumb. Also illegal. And maybe a little bit scary. So that's where my thinking landed. Yours may be different.

Good luck with whatever you choose, Matthew. There are solid reasons for either format. In the end, it's your shop and its purpose is to make YOU happy and productive.

[Matthew Hills]

Just finished (knock on wood) wiring my shop. I set the bottoms of my 120V boxes at 50" AFF, and ringed the shop with those (plus a couple in the ceiling).

My 240V/30A outlets are hammer height off the floor and also ring the shop, plus one in the ceiling. They're all twist-locks.

I have one SO cable extension cord plugged into an overhead twist-lock and looped onto a ceiling hook; it's suspended from a Kellums grip and is long enough to stretch out past the roll-up door if I want to roll my planer onto the driveway. I have a second SO extension cord that will reach almost anywhere in my small shop, from nearly any of the low-mounted 240V twists-lock outlets.

Why did you place the 240V outlets low? (I thought the mid height was more common?)

And how is the electrical drop arranged? is the kellems grip close to the outlet, and then you have the excess coiled and hung from a hook, or is the grip close to your free end of the extension cord, and that is hanging? (I've mostly seen these in lab spaces, as very short drops going down to benches -- and I didn't know what to call the kellems grip)

thanks,
Matt

[Jim Becker]

With only a couple of exceptions, my 240V receptacles are mounted at the typical "low" outlet position in my shop, Matt. It eliminates draped cords to the machines and most folks rarely unplug the major machines. (My CNC and lathe are exceptions because of the electronics...I want a full disconnect when they are not in use) Most of the 120v receptacles are in the higher position because that's more convenient for "bench height" connection of portable tools...something more frequently plugged and unplugged.

[John K Jordan]

With only a couple of exceptions, my 240V receptacles are mounted at the typical "low" outlet position in my shop, Matt. It eliminates draped cords to the machines and most folks rarely unplug the major machines. (My CNC and lathe are exceptions because of the electronics...I want a full disconnect when they are not in use) Most of the 120v receptacles are in the higher position because that's more convenient for "bench height" connection of portable tools...something more frequently plugged and unplugged.

Same here. 240v in my shop that are dedicated to specific machines that stay plugged in are near the floor. (I use twist connectors for those) Those in the closet for the compressor and DC are high and close to the machines. Several 50 amp receptacles I use to power welders and plasma cutter are higher at a comfortable height for access.

All 120v receptacles are above worktable height except for a couple of special cases. (several near or on the ceiling)

[Frank Pratt]

Most of my 240V receptacles are mounted low as well. There's a goofy idea that is floating around the internet that all your receptacles should be at 52" so you can access them when a sheet of plywood is leaning against the wall. I say goofy, because how many of us have shops with enough bare wall space to actually lean plywood against?

Receptacles should be placed where they work best for the situation.

[Mike Heidrick]

Yes - on a ton of outlets and all my 1ph 220V tools. I have them at several heights and in the ceiling. Lowest is 24".

[Julie Moriarty]

Are folks using the twist-lock (L6-30) or plug-in (6-30) outlets for their tools/DC?

Matt

I like twist locks because they won't come loose. All my tools are mobile and sometimes straight blade connections work their way out.