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Thread: Resawing 8" 8/4 without a bandsaw

  1. #1
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    Resawing 8" 8/4 without a bandsaw

    I just bought the wood for a new bed which will include drawers under the body. I didn't like the 4/4 they had in the width I need for the drawer fronts, so I bought a beautiful board of 8/4.

    My question is:

    Given that I don't have a bandsaw, what's the best way to re-saw ~12 feet of 8/4 down to ~3/4" for drawer fronts?

    I could imagine cutting full depth from both sides with the track saw or table saw and finishing the job with a handsaw. Is there a better option? Being a part-time neanderthal, what's the non-powered solution? Should I really just find someone in my area with a bandsaw (there a number of cabinet shops within blocks) and trade them a 6 pack for the job?

  2. #2
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    Cut into two 4" boards, resaw on the table saw, glue the boards back matching the grain, then plane to thickness.

  3. #3
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    This is Afromosia. For the really straight grained pieces it wold absolutely be fine, but the one I chose for the drawer fronts is very figured to the point that i don't think this is viable.

    Quote Originally Posted by Richard Coers View Post
    Cut into two 4" boards, resaw on the table saw, glue the boards back matching the grain, then plane to thickness.

  4. #4
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    Back when I only had a Rockwell 14" saw I wanted to make a couple of resonator guitars which called for bookmatched 14" wide tops. I cut a cherry board to 7-1/4" or so wide and cut 3" into each side on a table saw. Then I cut the center with a hand saw as you described. It was not pretty, but after I planed off the messy surface it was OK. I wouldn't want to do it regularly, but you probably have a more suitable hand saw than I had, and sharper. The problem I had was how to secure the board to use the hand saw without pinching the blade. I was only working in a 21" long piece of wood, so maybe if you have longer pieces that would be less awkward. By the next fall I got a band saw with enough resaw height to do what I wanted for guitars, and have been much happier ever since when guitar time comes around.

  5. #5
    If you have someone willing to resaw it for a six pack, I would go that route. If you don't have the right tools, that can be pretty miserable by hand and unsafe with power.

    Note that the boards may warp after resawing though. I'm not familiar with that wood, but warping after ripping 8/4 down the center is fairly common.
    Last edited by Andrew Seemann; 03-07-2021 at 1:27 AM.

  6. #6
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    I figure if I rip it down the middle cleanly, there should be enough thickness to reface it and still end up with around 2x ~3/4". What's the neanderthal answer? A frame saw?

  7. #7
    I would try to find a millwork or cabinet shop and pay them to rip it on a bandsaw. You chose a nice board - why chance screwing it up?

    You probably CAN do what you suggest with a track saw, but it makes me uncomfortable personally. You certainly could rip that board with a handsaw. But why do so much work, if there are places nearby that could easily do this.

    Good luck with whatever you decide.
    Fred
    "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."

    “If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron Liebling View Post
    I just bought the wood for a new bed which will include drawers under the body. I didn't like the 4/4 they had in the width I need for the drawer fronts, so I bought a beautiful board of 8/4.

    My question is:

    Given that I don't have a bandsaw, what's the best way to re-saw ~12 feet of 8/4 down to ~3/4" for drawer fronts?

    I could imagine cutting full depth from both sides with the track saw or table saw and finishing the job with a handsaw. Is there a better option? Being a part-time neanderthal, what's the non-powered solution? Should I really just find someone in my area with a bandsaw (there a number of cabinet shops within blocks) and trade them a 6 pack for the job?
    This is a good excuse for buying a bandsaw. The only power tool a neander really needs. I know this much is true.

  9. #9
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    Yes, frame saw or larger bow saw. Or rip hand saw with the lowest TPI you have. I have a 4 1/2 with a bit heavy set, but if I did it more often, I’d probably retooth a saw to 3 or 3 1/2. I’ve also helped guide the handsaw by using a kerfing saw (made this from an old stair saw). Saw the 8/4 down to rough dimension both length and width first and flip the board around from time to time to come at it from both sides.
    Last edited by Phil Mueller; 03-07-2021 at 6:22 AM.

  10. #10
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    Mark out the drawer fronts with chalk.

    Number them, if you want the grain flowing sequentially.

    Crosscut to length first, then resaw to thickness.

    ****

    The last time I did this was on a wide Sycamore panel, which was quite soft (36"x24") the resaw was 14".

    I scored the edge around the periphery of the board first, with a large backsaw from my miter box - to about 1/16" depth.

    I used a 5 ppi ripsaw for most of the tedium.
    ****

    The more crosscutting you do (across the width of the board) the more the saw will wander - keep strokes long, even if they don't seem to cut much, for better results.

    http://imgur.com/a/dCVYCwt
    Last edited by Jim Matthews; 03-07-2021 at 7:11 AM.

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron Liebling View Post
    I figure if I rip it down the middle cleanly, there should be enough thickness to reface it and still end up with around 2x ~3/4". What's the neanderthal answer? A frame saw?
    Yes, the best neaderthal answer is a Roubo frame saw. Build a 48" version and you'll never look back, just make sure you don't have some wimpy workbench or wimpy vise -- this is probably the most demanding work (in terms of torque on the bench) that I can think of.

    Neanderthal answer #2 is a handsaw. Maybe 24"-28" long or so, 5 TPI or so, freshly sharpened so the points feel like the claws of a kitten. It'll be slower going but for a modestly-sized piece of lumber it'll work fine, just maintain good technique -- elbow in line with wrist, rotate the work often, don't use downward force, brush the saw across the cut like sweeping, one leg well back of the other to get your body lined up properly, etc.

  12. #12
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    In your situation, I would do two cuts on the table saw, using a tall fence for support and working up to full depth for the particular table saw, and then complete with a hand-saw (as sharp and efficient as possible), cleaning things up at the thickness planer or by your favorite sharp hand planes. Cut things down to just oversize for length so you are NOt working on long boards. (I'd do that even with a bandsaw being available)
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron Liebling View Post
    This is Afromosia. For the really straight grained pieces it wold absolutely be fine, but the one I chose for the drawer fronts is very figured to the point that i don't think this is viable.
    What if you bookmatched them?

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    In your situation, I would do two cuts on the table saw, using a tall fence for support and working up to full depth for the particular table saw, and then complete with a hand-saw (as sharp and efficient as possible), cleaning things up at the thickness planer or by your favorite sharp hand planes. Cut things down to just oversize for length so you are NOt working on long boards. (I'd do that even with a bandsaw being available)
    What Jim said. 10” blade goes 3” deep both sides so you got 2” to cut and the table saw kerf guides your saw.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron Liebling View Post
    This is Afromosia. For the really straight grained pieces it wold absolutely be fine, but the one I chose for the drawer fronts is very figured to the point that i don't think this is viable.
    Always an issue being the first to respond, all the details haven't been explained yet.

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