You don't have to loose any length. cut off the existing tenon and put in a floating tenon.
You don't have to loose any length. cut off the existing tenon and put in a floating tenon.
That's not a tenon; it's a stub tenon. It might be enough to hold an end only 3" wide, but it would be far better if you had 3 longer tenons in addition to the stub tenon. The stub tenon keeps the field in alignment with the breadboard end. The long tenons are what gives it strength, and also normally where the dowels are located.
So with all that in mind, I would rip of the ends. If you don't have any stock to make new ones, then rip them off at the joint with the field. If you do then rip them off at the outside of the stub tenon, then route off whatever needs to be to get back to the stub tenon on the field. Cut three mortises at least 1-1/2" deep in both the ends of the field and in the breadboard ends. If you had to cut off the stub tenon, then route a slot between the deep mortises at least 3/4" deep for a new stub tenon. Make loose tenons to fit and glue them into the field. Install the breadboard ends and drill holes for the dowels, then remove the ends and elongate the holes in the outer tenons.
Fixing this now may save you some further future pain. If you finished the table with a film finish after the ends were installed, there is a high probability it will crack at the joint when the field expands/contracts. Finishing the ends separately from the field prevents this from happening.
John
Drill out your dowels and replace them with dowels with a "waist".