It's been interesting learning the many different ways to clamp a piece to a workbench. And the different ways to build a bench. Of all the online resources I've read and returned to, this is the place where I've learned the most. So before I start cutting, I wanted to ask your advise.
I'm planning on ripping 3.75" wide boards out of 8/4 soft maple, or some other hardwood that's easier to plane than hard maple. I'll orient the grain in the same direction and face glue the boards to make two 7' long pieces 3.75" thick. The approximate widths of the front and back bench top pieces can either be 18" & 7" (10 & 4 laminations), or 16" & 9" (9 & 5 laminations), or 14" & 11" (8 & 6 laminations). I'll leave 4.5" space between these split tops for some removable tool bins. This will make the bench top 84" long x 30" wide.
The base will be trestle style with the legs out flush to the long edges of the top. Top will overhang about 14" at each end. There will be no apron around the edges of the top. I'd like to start without a dogging system and first try all the other work holding techniques. I'm planning on a 9" Eclipse quick release for the face vise and my Grandfather's 7" Columbian as a tail vise.
I'm 70 and just retired, so this won't be a production shop bench. Just something for me to get back to what I always enjoyed doing. I've got a nice shop space in an unheated garage. We're starting to see more grass than snow around Cleveland now, so as soon as it warms up a little, I'm looking forward to getting back in the shop.
So finally I'm getting to the question: with 4.5" space between the split tops, do I need to drill holes for hold fasts? Will F-style clamps hold as securely as holdfasts for clamping battens, planning stops, doe's foot, boards on edge to chop a mortise, a moxon vise on top of bench, etc. Can a F-style clamp apply the same amount of pressure as a holdfast?
Thank you,
Tim