Twist wires before using a wire nut?

[Frank Pratt]

I twist, except stranded to solid. Note that if one does not twist, and torques down the wire nut, the wires will twist inside the wire nut.

Yep, and if they aren't twisted inside the wire nut, then it was not twisted hard enough & there will be a poor connection.

[Jason Roehl]

I twist, except stranded to solid. Note that if one does not twist, and torques down the wire nut, the wires will twist inside the wire nut.

I’m pretty sure most wire nuts would break before you got 10- and even 12-gauge solid wire to twist inside a wire nut, especially if it’s more than two wires.

I’m with Jim J—no need to pre-twist. I think it just work-hardens solid copper wire anyway, making it more likely to break (I’ve removed quite a few old wire nuts that had a small piece of wire left in them—the wires were always twisted together). When you’re working in an old, fairly full J-box, losing 1/2” off a wire because it was twisted can make things very difficult to button back up.

[Bill Dufour]

I ran into a different wire nut on my lathe. It was probably German or British. Looked like a regular wire nut. I unscrewed the plastic shell and inside was a brass thimble with the wires still locked in. It had a small setscrew from the side to lock the wires in place. The plastic cover just insulated the thimble and unscrewed to allow access to the screw. Similar to a polaris connector in a way.
Bill D

[David Buchhauser]

Absolutely. It’s a mechanical connection, held in place by the wire nut (which also insulates the connection.)

Yes. Particularly on #10 and #12 solid conductor "Romex" cable.

[Stan Coryell]

I ran into a different wire nut on my lathe. It was probably German or British. Looked like a regular wire nut. I unscrewed the plastic shell and inside was a brass thimble with the wires still locked in. It had a small setscrew from the side to lock the wires in place. The plastic cover just insulated the thimble and unscrewed to allow access to the screw. Similar to a polaris connector in a way.
Bill D

Bill,
I worked somewhere that used these.
Ideal 30-1294G
https://www.zoro.com/ideal-mechanica...RoC0XoQAvD_BwE

I don't remember where. GE maybe.

[Ronald Blue]

I ran into a different wire nut on my lathe. It was probably German or British. Looked like a regular wire nut. I unscrewed the plastic shell and inside was a brass thimble with the wires still locked in. It had a small setscrew from the side to lock the wires in place. The plastic cover just insulated the thimble and unscrewed to allow access to the screw. Similar to a polaris connector in a way.
Bill D

We use this style on a machine that has 3 phase motors to drive the heads. They work well. They are vibrating units for engaging the ballast and they don't loosen. In this case it's stranded wire which might work better. Slip wires in and tighten the set screw, then put the cap on. I don't think they are available in more than a couple sizes.

[Doug Garson]

I ran into a different wire nut on my lathe. It was probably German or British. Looked like a regular wire nut. I unscrewed the plastic shell and inside was a brass thimble with the wires still locked in. It had a small setscrew from the side to lock the wires in place. The plastic cover just insulated the thimble and unscrewed to allow access to the screw. Similar to a polaris connector in a way.
Bill D

I have a few of those in my stash of wire nuts, one is labelled "PAT MARR NO2 1924", a couple are just labelled "MARR NO2" don't recall where or when I got them. I remember using them when I rewired my house back in the 70's or 80's. Hard to photograph but here's one.
MARR.jpg

[Tom M King]

Has anyone used the two color, 3M wire nuts? I just ordered some to try, the next time I need to use any.

[Doug Dawson]

Yes. Particularly on #10 and #12 solid conductor "Romex" cable.

Here’s how I remember it. If a wire comes along, you must twist it. Twist it good. Sing it with me now... :^)