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Thread: Self stacking outfeed for TS?

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Hmm...unless this is going to be a constant production thing beyond the 50 sheets, perhaps the best solution might be to...hire a helper to handle the off-loading. I think that's what I'd do in this instance.
    And give up a good opportunity to buy a new tool???

  2. #17
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    I have one of the small baby feeders. It was given to me because the previous owner couldn't figure out how to turn it on. It's missing some of the parts to clamp it on the shaft so I haven't used it much. It does seem strong enough for more basic stuff. The variable speed is nice.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Tymchak View Post
    . Quick question to those with power feeders, is there some feature or adjustment that will keep the stock pulled into the fence thru the cut? Like the Jessum feed rollers do?


    .
    Hi Brian, yes the feeder will be adjusted by you to toe slightly into the fence which will keep constant pressure against the fence. It's much more consistent than any human operator.......Regards, Rod.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rod Sheridan View Post
    Hi Brian, yes the feeder will be adjusted by you to toe slightly into the fence which will keep constant pressure against the fence. It's much more consistent than any human operator.......Regards, Rod.
    Rod:

    Is the minimum width that a feeder can rip the width of the feeder? In other words, if I want to rip 3" pieces with a 5" deep power feeder, would I still have to do it manually and not use the feeder?
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Lightstone View Post
    Rod:

    Is the minimum width that a feeder can rip the width of the feeder? In other words, if I want to rip 3" pieces with a 5" deep power feeder, would I still have to do it manually and not use the feeder?
    The minimum width would be the width of the feeder wheel, however you can run the feeder with the gap over the blade, or run the blade up into the tire if required. Feeders have a gap between 2 of the wheels for that purpose..........Rod.

  6. #21
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    You can also place the feeder after the blade. Most feeders also have narrower wheels as an option to sit on one side of a blade.

  7. #22
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    Not at all a fan of baby feeders. They do not weigh enough to move stock of any real size and that pivot mount flexes up. You want the 1hp feeder and its weight and adjustments and stout arm mount. I have owned a baby feeder and also own a 1hp 4 wheel and owned a 3 wheel before that.

    For little pieces on the TS I use a gripper and not a feeder. That or id try and create a carrier jig long enough to pass through my feeder. My current feeder is on my big shaper.
    Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

  8. #23
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    So Mike's post has me wondering.. You guys that have the baby feeders, what max size stock have you run thru your saw/shaper/etc?

    Thanks!
    Brian

    "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger or more complicated...it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." - E.F. Schumacher

  9. #24
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    Instead of hydraulic table make a similar scissors table with a electric actuator. Push button after each piece and have it drop x revolutions. Button could of course be an electric eye. Or a lever arm switch that is pushed up by new wood a shuts off power when it drops to desired down height.
    Bil lD

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Tymchak View Post
    So Mike's post has me wondering.. You guys that have the baby feeders, what max size stock have you run thru your saw/shaper/etc?

    Thanks!
    What size groove are you panning on making? A 1hp feeder is a great thing but I can't see it being needed on a table saw. I've used on on my neighbor's shaper to make raised panels in one pass. If you are planning on doing a 3/4" wide dado an inch deep maybe. The larger ones are also very heavy and that means harder to install/ remove.

    I've only used the 1/8 hp one I have with a set of rail and stile cutters on my shaper. It wasn't a huge amount of wood being removed but it worked just fine. The problem with mine is the missing parts. Both the part that acts like a pinion on the hexagonal shaft to move it in and out and the bolt/ lever to tighten it up on that shaft aren't there. So adjusting it is much more time consuming. I think Comatic makes it but I haven't found the pinion gear (Grizzly has a part number but it doesn't show up on their website). The nice thing about the baby feeder is that you can mount it to a magnetic base vs bolting it. Plenty of videos of people doing it.

    Here's a simple video showing one in use.


  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alex Zeller View Post
    What size groove are you panning on making? A 1hp feeder is a great thing but I can't see it being needed on a table saw.
    I just got final info yesterday on the job. Turns out, the grooves are narrow, one full kerf blade width, on an angle.

    A 1hp feeder @ $1k is not an option for me. I can see picking up the Grizzly baby feeder if it will do the job. Just not sure how to make that assessment. I've only found videos so far showing the feeder moving boards much smaller than I will be milling.
    Brian

    "Any intelligent fool can make things bigger or more complicated...it takes a touch of genius and a lot of courage to move in the opposite direction." - E.F. Schumacher

  12. #27
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    I don't think 3' long or being wider will be an issue. I'm sure if you can give some more details someone can test it. I currently don't have the feeder set up to be used on my tablesaw (because of the missing parts) but could but not until next week. IMO a small cut, like a blade width isn't going to be an issue at all.

  13. #28
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    Looking at this problem, there might be a different solution than a raising and lowering table. Rather the an outfeed that ramps down in the direction of travel of the board (as one of the suggested designs showed). What about have an outfeed table that is flat to the surface on one side of the balance point of the board, and then ramp down perpendicular to the path of travel on the other side of the balance point. That way the board is supported in length for the grooving operation but once off the main table of the saw it will slide down to the incline to the right (or left depending on how you set it up) to queue the boards along the ramp. Maybe I need to draw this to show what I am thinking
    Slide2.jpgSlide3.jpg (sorry for the thumbnails being a bit on the small side)

    Just a thought.

    John

  14. #29
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    I’d try and hire a kid to help for a few hours
    Bob C

  15. #30
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    Realistically, me typing up one of my earlier responses, probably took longer than running 50 3' boards through my Sawstop, just moving from the stack of 'need to cut/process' to creating the stack of processed.

    Two stacks of 25 boards, 1" thick, would sit just to the left of the blade, and the just cut would get moved to the right, probably on a small roller cart.

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