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Thread: A versatile and precise miter sled

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    Port Hope, Ontario
    Posts
    97

    A versatile and precise miter sled

    My old sleds did not fit on new table saw, so I gave my old sleds to the guy who bought the old saw, and set out to make new sleds. Did some research on best practices in table saw sled construction, and found some great ideas that were new to me, and also came up with some ideas of my own. But I did not find an instruction that pulled together all the great ideas. Therefore made this video showing how to make a versatile and precise miter sled: https://youtu.be/yJbVyA8rqYA


    Main ideas incorporated in this design are:


    1. Used a single UHMW runner. Found this to be just as good as the two runner sleds that I have always made. An advantage of a single runner is that changes in humidity that affect the dimension of the base will not cause the runners to bind in slots. A single runner does require a snug fit in the mitre slot.


    2. Make a perfect right angle triangle of MDF, to be glued to the base, and then use that as a guide to set the fences perfectly. Orient the MDF triangle for perfect 45 degree cuts using a new method shown in the video.


    3. Threaded inserts in the miter fences, allow auxiliary fences to be bolted on. Long auxiliary fences for long pieces, and special auxiliary fences for making precise picture frames without measuring.


    1. Perfect Triangle.jpg

    2. Miter Sled.jpg

    3. Long Fences.jpg

    4. Picture Frame Fences 16-9.jpg

    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Steven Woodward; 02-26-2021 at 8:11 PM.

  2. #2
    Well thought out miter sled, and a GREAT video. For front fence, instead of a short solid piece, make a bridge that fastens to table near outer edge of sled. The middle portion is removed to allow stock to pass thru. To figure opening, take a piece and extend fence angles to front of sled, marking where fence extension is. Do both sides, then you know how long an area has to be removed. Because your sled overhangs left side of saw top, add a stop system to prevent cut thru. With sled in most forward position, attach a block to under side of sled where it touches side of table. Mark side of table, then remove sled, drill and tap a bolt there, with just the head projecting out of table. This way, any time you push sled forward, it will hit the stop (bolt head.) Jerry Cole covers picture frames in his video on the DUBBY. Take a few moments and watch it. My Dubby will do most of the operations you have shown, and it's adjustable for most any angle. Ever build a cut a seven sided frame? The Dubby can.
    Last edited by Bruce Wrenn; 02-26-2021 at 9:08 PM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Location
    Port Hope, Ontario
    Posts
    97
    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Wrenn View Post
    ...For front fence, instead of a short solid piece, make a bridge that fastens to table near outer edge of sled. The middle portion is removed to allow stock to pass thru. To figure opening, take a piece and extend fence angles to front of sled, marking where fence extension is. Do both sides, then you know how long an area has to be removed. ....
    Brilliant idea with the bridge. Thanks for that.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Steven Woodward View Post
    Brilliant idea with the bridge. Thanks for that.

    Read it in one of the woodworking books or magazines

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