Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 28 of 28

Thread: Ideas for cutting heavy steel pipe under water?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Burlington, NC
    Posts
    821
    Quote Originally Posted by George Yetka View Post
    Do you have a picture?
    This was taken before I started pumping and dug the drain ditch. You can tell where the pond edge should be. The overflow pipe is somewhere to the extreme right.

    Just a side note, once I get the level dropped so I can clean the edges, I plan to bring the water level back up to this level and hope to raise it as much as another foot, requiring this overflow pipe to be altered anyway.

    It was used as a farm pond but I hope to make it look more like something you would see on a fine golf course.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    9,885
    There are two kinds of pipe cutter the chain ones for cast iron and the wheel types for steel pipe. The link is a large one for steel pipe. I have one like it I need to get rid of.
    Bill D

    https://www.unitedrentals.com/marketplace/equipment/plumbingpipeconduit/pipecutting/pipe-cutter-hinged-8-12#/

    4" pipe use this one instead

    http://www.arvadarentalls.com/rental...e-tool-co/3932

  3. #18
    If you have a boat, pipe can be located. On rear of boat, make a loop of chain, which doesn't have to be very heavy duty. Fasten one end to one side of boat, and other end to other side. Row back and forth till chain snags the pipe. Have something in boat, such as a piece of 3/4" PVC, then rod the pipe from above. Many ponds were built with a drain valve installed at base of overflow pipe.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Putney, Vermont
    Posts
    1,042
    If the pipe did not have water flowing down it, could you cut the pipe from the inside out if it is vertical?

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Lake Gaston, Henrico, NC
    Posts
    8,973
    Air powered reciprocating saw.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    South Coastal Massachusetts
    Posts
    6,824
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Dufour View Post
    det cord?

    Bill D
    "Hold my beer."

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Burlington, NC
    Posts
    821
    An update for those who are interested. We found the outflow pipe at the base of the dam, it is cast. We plugged the pipe with a rag and used compressed air from a small portable tank to pressurize as best we could. Saw a few air bubbles come up on the surface of the water and found the overflow about 6" under the surface. Unplugged the beaver patch over it and drained to the design water level.

    The siphon idea looks like the best option of taking the water down another 12" or so, which is the nest step. Then use that ratchet snap tool to cut off the intake pipe, and use my new tractor/backhoe to make the needed repairs to the pond banks.

    Thanks for the suggestions, it was a big help . I did check on the det cord, turns out you need a special license to buy it, imagine that!

    Perry

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    The Hartland of Michigan
    Posts
    7,628
    I still don't understand cutting the pipe. All that will do is raise the minimum controlled level.
    Never, under any circumstances, consume a laxative and sleeping pill, on the same night

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Burlington, NC
    Posts
    821
    Quote Originally Posted by Myk Rian View Post
    I still don't understand cutting the pipe. All that will do is raise the minimum controlled level.
    The pipe is vertical, down to the bottom and then turns 90 degs under the damn coming out outside the base of the dawn. It's used to provide overflow protection for the pond. By making the vertical height of the pipe shorter, water flows into the pipe and out of the pond, setting a new maximum pond depth.

    My intention is to eventually plug this pipe completely and put in a new overflow/spillway at a higher level. Hope to raise the water level about 18" total after I repair and reshape the pond.

    Perry

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Youngstown, Oh
    Posts
    204
    Thanks for the update. Good to hear you got the clog handled.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Millstone, NJ
    Posts
    1,590
    In that case I would get out there and snap cut 18" off (assuming straight pipe) and let it drain. Then once the repairs are made use a stainless repair clamp and reconnect pipe with a strainer basket on the end. you may have to clean it out every few years but it will keep the pipe from ever clogging

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Millstone, NJ
    Posts
    1,590
    you can rent a mud sucker or a trash pump to move the water if you have a place to send it. They usually have a 3" hard rubber suction line and a roll of light duty fire hose on the discharge and can move water easily

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Michigan, USA
    Posts
    548
    Quote Originally Posted by Myk Rian View Post
    I still don't understand cutting the pipe. All that will do is raise the minimum controlled level.
    Myk,

    In this type of pond, the top of the overflow pipe is well below the height of the dam that creates the pond. This is to keep the water from flowing over the dam itself (and causing damage/erosion of the dam). When the water level reaches the height of the overflow pipe, the excess water flows through the overflow (usually under the dam itself) to keep the water level at the desired maximum level. Cutting the pipe lowers the maximum level of the water.

    It's like the overflow in a bathroom sink. When the stopper is in the drain, if the water gets too deep, it runs out the overflow (bypassing the stopper) instead of overflowing the top of the sink.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •