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Thread: Collinite 885, 845 paste waxes for table saws, jointers etc. and silicone

  1. #1

    Collinite 885, 845 paste waxes for table saws, jointers etc. and silicone

    I'm a new member here. I've been woodworking for quite a while now and it seems whenever I'm googling something about woodworking this is one of the places I end up a lot, so I figured I'd join. So thanks for all the info.

    I know there is a lot of posts about paste wax, believe me my eyes are dry from reading so much, but I wanted to hear more current thoughts on this. I am looking for an excellent paste wax that doesn't smell too bad. I've always used Johnsons paste wax in the past, but I'm really tired of the smell of it. Even with doors and windows open and fans going when I'm done waxing my tools even my clothes reek of the gasoline like smell. Maybe mine is old or whatever, I don't know. I really just want to switch to something with carnauba in it too and maybe not killing so many of the few brain cells I have left.

    I found collinite paste wax. It comes highly rated as "the best wax ever!" from around the internet. I see that a few people here use it. The thing is it has a small amount of silicone in it according to them via email, they said 2% in the 845 and a small amount in the 885.

    I'm wondering if anybody has direct experience using either of these waxes or a paste wax with a small amount of silicone in it and if it has affected your finishes. I've read that only the silicone sprays cause the fish eyes and that the pastes are ok, I've also read that anything with paste wax is a big no no. I've read of large shops that do the woodwork and the finishing using paste waxes with silicone and never had a problem and I've of course read a lot of stay away stories, but all the stay away stories seem to be what they've heard and I haven't read any personal horror stories of a paste wax with a small bit of silicone ruining a project. I'm really hoping to hear what people that have direct experience with this say, either affecting your finish or not affecting it at all.

  2. #2
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    It works great on cars, generally I avoid having any amount of silicone near my woodworking. I have personally observed fingerprints on painted surfaces caused by residual silicone remaining on someone's hands from after shave used hours earlier.
    Last edited by Lee Schierer; 02-25-2021 at 4:26 PM.

  3. #3
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    No knowledge of that wax but anything with silicone in it would not get near my shop. Why take a chance when there are plenty of other waxes to choose from. In that regard, Lundmark's Paste Wax works really well for me and has very low odor. Made in American, too.

    https://www.amazon.com/Lundmark-Wax-...s%2C187&sr=8-2

    John

  4. #4
    john - you use that on your tools and surfaces, or on your woodwork? never heard of it before, thanks for the recommendation.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Lee Schierer View Post
    It works great on cars, generally I avoid having any amount of silicone near my woodworking. I have personally observed fingerprints on painted surfaces caused by residual silicone remaining on someone's hands from after shave used hours earlier.
    Thanks for the info. I do feel that after shave is a bit different though since it’s not dried like paste wax gets.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by John TenEyck View Post
    No knowledge of that wax but anything with silicone in it would not get near my shop. Why take a chance when there are plenty of other waxes to choose from. In that regard, Lundmark's Paste Wax works really well for me and has very low odor. Made in American, too.

    https://www.amazon.com/Lundmark-Wax-...s%2C187&sr=8-2

    John
    Funny, Coincidentally lundmark is the other one I’m trying. I put it on some of my tools yesterday. It didn’t feel as slick as I had hoped. Maybe I should have done more coats.

    I decided to try the collinite 885 on my bandsaw since it’s pretty far away from the last step when milling wood and the collinite seems to form a slicker coat. It has that same initial grab as the johnsons wax does then buffs smooth. The lundmark didn’t do that. The lundmark also left swirl marks, but I did let it sit overnight before buffing. I called them and they recommended letting it sit 3-5 hours before buffing, but it was too late last night to get to it. The collinite left a clear finish but I buffed it off after 5-10 mins after it started to feel grabby.

    The reason I want to try the collinite is because so many people say how good it is, well for cars and boats anyway, a few for wood tools too. They say it lasts a long time, which would save me time in the shop. It’s not always convenient to open the shop to ventilate either due to rain, humidity, heat, cold etc.

    Have you had any experience with silicone messing up a finish?
    Last edited by Jason Evans; 02-25-2021 at 5:46 PM.

  7. #7
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    Years ago, I was privy to a story of an auto manufacturer that had an Indy car show up for employee motivation. The car 'steward' (baby sitter) got bored and started waxing the race car with a silicone wax. About the same time the paint line started having issues. The source was traced to waxing the race car the story went.

    Not sure I buy into the cause and effect but it was told by an auto manufacturer employee. YMMV!

  8. #8
    Interesting story, thanks. That would be pretty crazy if waxing a car near a paint line would affect the whole operation. Not sure I buy into it either.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Eugene Dixon View Post
    Not sure I buy into the cause and effect but it was told by an auto manufacturer employee. YMMV!
    Worked at a place that had a model/pattern making building and a fiberglass mold making building. About 80' apart. If the pattern shop used silicone aerosol spray the mold shop would get fisheyes in their gel coats.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Hayward View Post
    Worked at a place that had a model/pattern making building and a fiberglass mold making building. About 80' apart. If the pattern shop used silicone aerosol spray the mold shop would get fisheyes in their gel coats.
    That's a pretty long distance. Did they work with garage doors open? Crazy to think about where else the spray went.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Zaret View Post
    john - you use that on your tools and surfaces, or on your woodwork? never heard of it before, thanks for the recommendation.
    I use it mostly on my machines. What I like about it is you just wipe it on and go back to work; no need to buff it off. The couple of times I put it on a finished wood surface it was extremely easy to use. Wipe it on and buff it immediately if you feel like it, or wait if you prefer and then buff it. Didn't seem to matter; it buffed easily, just as Lundmark claims. And it leaves no fingerprints behind when handling a buffed surface - big kudos for that feature.

    It may not last as long as some other waxes on my machines, but it lasts long enough that it doesn't annoy me when I need to apply another coat, in large part because it's so easy to use. It doesn't build up like some waxes do if you don't vigorously buff them off. And it does what I want which is reduce friction, the primary reason for using it, and protect uncoated cast iron from rust.

    John

  12. #12
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    I don't buff off Lundmark, just put it on and go back to work. I only use one coat, too. It goes on so thin I doubt multiple coats are going to add much benefit but that's just a guess. I haven't tried Collinite, didn't even know about it to be honest, but like I said before if it has silicone it's not welcome in my shop. The benefit to grief ratio doesn't justify using any product with silicone. If you've ever had fisheyes in a freshly sprayed finish you'll know why.

    John

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by John TenEyck View Post
    I don't buff off Lundmark, just put it on and go back to work. I only use one coat, too. It goes on so thin I doubt multiple coats are going to add much benefit but that's just a guess. I haven't tried Collinite, didn't even know about it to be honest, but like I said before if it has silicone it's not welcome in my shop. The benefit to grief ratio doesn't justify using any product with silicone. If you've ever had fisheyes in a freshly sprayed finish you'll know why.

    John
    Thanks a lot John. That sounds pretty convenient to just apply and get back to work without waiting, didn't know it could be used like that.

  14. #14
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    Hi Jason,

    I use Renaissance Wax on the jointer tables, etc.:
    https://www.theruststore.com/Renaiss...ax-P235C0.aspx
    Most hand tools get Camellia Oil.

    I've also used Waxilit:
    https://tooling.weinigusa.com/product-p/xxx100082.htm

    The Lundmark wax looks good, and the price too.

    Thanks and good health, Weogo

  15. #15
    Hi Weogo,

    I've been using the camellia oil for a while on hand tools, too. Never tried the renaissance wax, that's is some pricey wax. Is it better than other paste waxes you've used, if so, why?

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