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Thread: Blum boring distance

  1. #1
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    Blum boring distance

    can someone tell me what the value of B is here...the boring distance. I'm going to build my first inset doors in a non-faceframe cabinet and want a 3/32 reveal
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    Bob C

  2. #2
    Do a mockup. Always. Start with a 5mm tab distance, that should get you in the ballpark.

  3. #3
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    3mm to 5mm is what Blum calls for on the hinges I use.

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin Jenness View Post
    Do a mockup. Always. Start with a 5mm tab distance, that should get you in the ballpark.
    What Kevin said. I ran a few extra pieces of wood the thickness of the door stiles for testing. If you are routing the edge of your doors, rout your practice piece first so you can test that the hole doesn’t break out.

  5. #5
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    There is another table somewhere with the hinge you are using that tells you "B" boring distance based on the reveal you desire.

  6. #6
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    I found a more informative spec sheet for that hinge. https://www.wwhardware.com/media/ins...ge_install.pdf As I read it, it says a bore distance of 5mm will get you a reveal of 3/32".

  7. #7
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    Jamie is correct. 3/32" is about 2.5 mm, and for that hinge with a 9 mm mounting plate, the boring distance is 5 mm, so the center of the cup would be 17.5 + 5 = 22.5 mm from the edge.

    A mockup is never a bad idea, but Blum gives you all the info you need.

    John

  8. #8
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    Thanks for the great thoughtful reply and I’ll definitely do a mock-up first as well
    Bob C

  9. #9
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    Plus- as a friend says, "They are highly adjustable!"

  10. #10
    What I did was saved my mockup and when ever I make more I use it to set up a fence. I put the bit into the hole and then clamp my fence against the edge of the mock up. Also I bottom out the bit in the mock up and then set my depth gauge. Saves some time the next time.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ron Citerone View Post
    What I did was saved my mockup and when ever I make more I use it to set up a fence. I put the bit into the hole and then clamp my fence against the edge of the mock up. Also I bottom out the bit in the mock up and then set my depth gauge. Saves some time the next time.
    That's fine as long as the boring distance needs to be the same. But bear in mind most Euro hinges can have a variety of boring distances dependent upon door thickness and required reveal. Two doors hinged to the same divider require a different (greater) reveal than doors following one after the other. The adjustability of the hinges can accommodate some error in getting the design correct, but it's better to start with the correct design so that the full range of adjustability can be used for fine tuning. If you've ever wondered why you had to move a hinge almost all the way to one extreme or the other or, worse, needed just a little more than the hinge could provide, it's more than likely the boring distance wasn't correct for that particular application.

    John
    Last edited by John TenEyck; 02-26-2021 at 2:48 PM.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by John TenEyck View Post
    That's fine as long as the boring distance needs to be the same. But bear in mind most Euro hinges can have a variety of boring distances dependent upon door thickness and required reveal. Two doors hinged to the same divider require a different (greater) reveal than doors following one after the other. The adjustability of the hinges can accommodate some error in getting the design correct, but it's better to start with the correct design so that the full range of adjustability can be used for fine tuning. If you've ever wondered why you had to move a hinge almost all the way to one extreme or the other or, worse, needed just a little more than the hinge could provide, it's more than likely the boring distance wasn't correct for that particular application.

    John
    Never thought of it that way as I only planned on using the same hinge and overhang. Glad you pointed it out to avoid someone a mistake.

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