SWMBO wants handrails on the stairways for the porches. So what she wants she gets.
This will be shaped using a Stanley #45 and three hollow molding planes.
The reeding was chosen as a tactile grip for finger tips.
There are a few full length 2X3s in the shop. Often in the Borgs when passing through the lumber racks if there are some showing nice grain they may get thrown on the cart for a ride home.
The grain isn’t always cooperative so two planes are set up for one to be used left handed just in case. It is convenient having spare blades for such times. These are set up with 1/4” double reed cutters, #232.
One plane was set up for normal use and used in a piece of scrap. Then a second plane was set up for left handed use:
#45 Set Up Lefty.jpg
The plane was set into the cut made by the first plane to set the fence.
After making a practice piece in scrap the easiest order of cuts was determined.
After the stock is smoothed the top is rounded with a #20 (1-1/4”) hollow:
#20 Hollow on Top.jpg
Care is taken to not hit the top of the work with the sharp point at the edge of the blade. Light mistakes can be removed with a smoothing plane.
Next the edges are given some reeding. Starting at the far end of the cut is advised in the instruction manual. One good reason for this is the plane makes a guide for the plane to follow as it is cutting beads, reeds, flutes, slots, matching or sash:
Starting the Cut.jpg
Like other planes the #45 can benefit from waxing the fence and skates.
Once the cut has worked back to the other end take full length cuts:
Final Strokes.jpg
With beads or reeds it is often a good idea to set the depth stop to finish slightly below the surface. This allows going over the edges with a smoothing plane to clean up any splinters.
When the reeding is finished any sharp corners are smoothed with a #6 (3/8”) or #8 (1/2”) hollow plane:
Hollow Used to Soften Edges.jpg
This is the finished profile:
End Profile.jpg
Tomorrow a trip to Home Depot to pick up some mounting hardware.
jtk