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Thread: Looking For Layout Help

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
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    Southeastern CT
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    141

    Looking For Layout Help

    So attached is a scale drawing of my 3 car garage/wood shop. Looking for some help on equipment layout/DC routing - just want to be efficient and do this once. I don’t have a lot of wall space due to the walk-in cooler, the boiler, hot water heater, a couple windows on the back wall (top of photo), etc.

    For equipment I currently have:

    - Laguna 18-36 lathe
    - Tormek sharpener on bench next to lathe
    - Sawstop ICS w/ 52” fence
    - PM 15HH planer
    - PM PJ882 jointer

    Equipment I plan to add is a band saw, CNC router (long term wish list), drill press, work bench, and various other small items (mortiser, etc).

    I would appreciate any and all help to get things laid out properly.

    Thanks

    659C1CB0-2B7C-45C5-82C1-A97233B84D1F.jpg7F2CCFB4-3402-4838-8CA8-ED86871614A3.jpgBAD3ACC3-4C51-472E-91BB-ABA9D56DEDF8.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    65,842
    The first thing you need to consider is your personal workflow...when you tackle a project how do you use your tools to prepare the material? Then take a few minutes to make some paper cutouts that reflect the size of each tool as well as any required clearance. You can then use them to play with your design. I will tell you one thing straight up...the best place for your table saw may NOT be smack in the center as so many folks seem to place it by default. You have a nice larger, space there. As you work things out to reflect how you operate, consider dividing the space into machining area, bench area and assembly/finishing area. That latter piece can be and often should be just open space. Having an area where your milling/sizing tools live substantially simplifies your dust collection design, too. Keep specialty tools like your lathe and sharpening center out of the way of the lumber processing operation. Other specialty tools are often best kept mobile and "corralled" until one is needed. Etc.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
    Do you need to allow for parking cars or storing yard equipment?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Southeastern CT
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas Wilson View Post
    Do you need to allow for parking cars or storing yard equipment?
    No, cars live outside and garden/yard equipment is in a separate shed.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Bloomington, IL
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    6,009
    20210301_101906.jpg hope this phone pic works
    Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Bloomington, IL
    Posts
    6,009
    I tried to layout and give you full sheet and 8' access to the tools that needed it and the best run for your dust collector to the tools that need it the most. The jointer and planer can feed in to the same outfeed as the tables saw feeding the opposite direction. Dotted lines are dust collection runs - drops from ceiling I assumed. You dint need full 4 side access to a router but three side access is nice. I added a chopsaw station as you need that too. Just use a shop vac to collect from drill press and mortiser.
    Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Michigan
    Posts
    2,769
    My shop is not table saw centric, it's workbench centric. That's where most of the work gets done and I can walk all the way around it. The SS Grizzly is docked to the wall starboard. I use a portable stand for outfield. It gets moved to the planer, drill press etc as needed. This approach tames the space hogs and lets me be productive in a small shop. The stand is the only movable item.

    Your layout will change over time. If you run your duct main diagonally to the far corner it will be fairly easy to rearrange things. Also it lets you make 45 taps which are good for flow.

    Lights, put a bunch of duplex outlets around. Make them easy to move. You will be moving lights around and adding some.

    Congrats on the new shop.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Southeastern CT
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    So I decided to wall off the opening from the garage to the apartment stairs to give me more wall space. In the process of building a bench there that will hold two miter saws - my older DeWalt will have a 40T blade for rough cuts, and the new Metabo slider will have an 80T blade installed for finish work.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Southeastern CT
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    Got some more work done, getting real close to being done with setup (for now anyhow). The glass door cooler will be gone this week, making more available room. Didn’t want to spend the money on drawer slides for the Festool boxes, so I made them an inch taller than necessary to make grabbing them easier.

    06D5B802-BDB0-480A-9D7D-65EE77C8D025.jpg36A3E66D-41CE-4A12-87ED-13FEB87DA12B.jpg5E6A985F-2904-42A3-946D-C465FF6A60B1.jpg39195C43-5082-40CF-9E13-CC9D2C3EB4AE.jpgF4C48BFE-8C84-47C0-AA4D-7A68254CA607.jpgFAECB5AF-AAEB-43BB-8BC2-D5AFCB268F55.jpg298D5205-27DE-4CB7-8090-D08DC0A23F8F.jpgCD6ED4E5-E1D6-4D84-B497-0F1F9AE440AE.jpg

    EDIT: Why does the forum software rotate photos 90 degrees CCW, and how do I compensate for it?

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    The storage for the Systainers looks great! Did you happen to make the shelves movable? I'm planning a similar thing for my new shop once it comes about.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  11. #11
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    Dec 2012
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    Southeastern CT
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    The storage for the Systainers looks great! Did you happen to make the shelves movable? I'm planning a similar thing for my new shop once it comes about.
    I did not, I grouped the boxes by function (Domino sustainers in same cabinet as the Domino cutter, etc). Still need to put a face frame on the front of the bench and the cabinets.
    Last edited by Mike Hollis; 03-21-2021 at 6:44 PM.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    Tampa Bay, FL
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    3,925
    Looking great. I've never seen a Jet air cleaner installed that way. Usually hang down by chains. They tend to vibrate a lot (I have two of them). That might be pretty noisy both upstairs and downstairs. Have you tried it yet? You could always put some rubber between the wood and the air cleaner to dampen vibrations if that's an issue.

    Or if you have an air gap above them, this is likely a non-issue.
    - After I ask a stranger if I can pet their dog and they say yes, I like to respond, "I'll keep that in mind" and walk off
    - It's above my pay grade. Mongo only pawn in game of life.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan Lightstone View Post
    I've never seen a Jet air cleaner installed that way. Usually hang down by chains. They tend to vibrate a lot (I have two of them). That might be pretty noisy both upstairs and downstairs. Have you tried it yet? You could always put some rubber between the wood and the air cleaner to dampen vibrations if that's an issue.

    I have my JDS 750 sitting on two heavy duty "shelf" brackets with no rubber or anything. The only noise is from the blower/air movement.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    Southeastern CT
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    Picked up an addition for the shop today, found it on CL for what I feel is a decent price. Fired it up when I got it unloaded, quiet and conveyor runs very smoothly.

    EF70F191-8C11-4508-80CC-F274EA79EF8B.jpg8AE5419D-0813-4D71-94EB-A96A3104924A.jpg

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2020
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    Elizabethtown, PA
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    124
    Looks like the shop is coming together nicely, I would however change your offset from 90s to 45s, that will increase airflow. A quick tip for fitting pipe.. 45 degree offset: take the offset required multiplied my 1.4142 that will give you center to center for the "travel" the slant dimension. Next measure what your fitting is end to center, subtract the "make up" for the hub from that measurement. Next multiply the "new" end to center number twice (this is called "take out"). That is what you will subtract from your offset calculation will be your "travel". Now you have the cut length of your pipe.

    24" offset x 1.4142 = 33.9408 or 33 15/16", say your 45 measures 5 1/2" end to center with a 3" insertion depth (make up). So 5 1/2" - 3" = 2" take out. 2"+2" = 4" total take out. 33 15/16" - 4" = 29 15/16" cut length. I know it's a lot to consume, hence why I gave an example. If you want to change it cool, if you need help PM me. If not that's okay too.

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